polaroid 110 to 4x5 question

[Nathan Appel]

I'm working on a 4x5 conversion on a polaroid 110B camera, and I plan to shoot fuji pack film solely. I'm looking to bypass the typical graflok adapter system and just mount a polaroid 550 or fuji pa45 holder, but I'm sure I'll need to build an adapter plate or 'extender' to get full 4x5 coverage from the stock 127mm lens. My question is, has anyone gone about building a fuji or polaroid pack film exclusive conversion 110 in 4x5? And what thickness plate (will probably use aluminum) should I be looking at to extend the pack holder far enough? I was hoping on removing the original film door/roller to keep it less bulky. Thanks,
Nathan

[Ari]

This page might be of help, at least for starters:
http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00D4gM

And see this:
http://photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/00DQeJ

[Gordon Flodders]

This page might be of help, at least for starters:
http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00D4gM

This is the very thread that got me interested in these cameras and it was so much fun back then.

GF

[Nathan Appel]

yes, that article is so cool! I'm really planning on shooting fuji instant exclusively, and I'm picking up some aluminum plate to mount a polaroid back to. I'm excited about this project, as i love diy style cameras, i'm just trying to figure out a few things like plate thickness to get full 4x5 coverage, but it really has been fun so far

[Ash]

It'll be a bit heavy, mind. The 550/pa45 back is quite a chunky thing on its own. Good fun tho.

[Nathan Appel]

yes, i am so excited. I have a 110A and 900 body, and polaroid 550 back, bushings, aluminum plates, etc. I like the focusing knob of the 110, but the hinge style of the 900, so this will be a true frankensteins monster..

[Frank R]

You will have to do the calculation for the adapter yourself since it is a DIY project; it is not hard.
Make a ground glass from a piece of glass, like from a dollar store picture frame. Cover it with strips of frosted scotch tape for the "ground" part.

Set up your camera on a tripod with it pointed to a well lit object, like outside on a sunny day. Open the back of the camera and place the ground glass over the film opening. Move it backward until it is in focus. Estimate the gap between the GG and the mounting location on the camera body. Then substitute strips of wood or cardstock on the top and bottom of the GG to achieve a solid footing and keeping it parallel to the film plane. Shim in or out to achive best focus. When finished, measure the thickness of the shims and build the frame to that dimension.

You could also make the frame slightly thinner and then use permanent shims to bring it up to the proper thickness for being in focus.

[Ernest Purdum]

I'm not sure I understand what you have in mind with the extender so the comment following may be based on a misunderstanding.

Using an extender plate to get more coverage from the lens wouldn't work. The lens to film distance has to be determined by focus.

The 127mm lens would probably cover since it is probably the same as those found on vast numbers of 4x5 Graphics and similar cameras.

[Nathan Appel]

Frank R., that is brilliant!!!!! Thanks, that sounds like a super simple solution(and cheap), awesome!!!!!!!

[Frank R]

Be sure to include the thickness of the glass in your final measurement. It is really the measurement from the camera back to the rear plane of the GG.

Also, Ernest's point is correct. The 127mm lens will cover the polaroid film size when it is in focus. That is the size of the existing opening. If you add your extender it will not remain in focus. You will need to move the front lens standard back a bit and mount it permanently; this will allow the cone of light to fill the 4x5 area. Then it can be tweaked for focus.

[Darcy Cote]

[QUOTE=Frank R;572936]Be sure to include the thickness of the glass in your final measurement. It is really the measurement from the camera back to the rear plane of the GG.

Should this not be the front of the ground glass?

[Nathan Smith]

[QUOTE=Frank R;572936]Be sure to include the thickness of the glass in your final measurement. It is really the measurement from the camera back to the rear plane of the GG.

Should this not be the front of the ground glass?

Assuming the ground surface is on the front of the glass (as it should be) then yes. That is the surface that the image is formed on - the same plane that, hopefully, the film will be at when the film holder is inserted.

[Kuzano]

If you do move the front lens standard back exactly the distance that you move the film plane back, the rangefinder will still be proper for handheld use.

There is an alternative to moving the front standard back. If 2.3 centimeters is the distance the film plane has to be moved back to achieve the 4X5 coverage, then you could change the lens/shutter to a 150mm and still get focus at the film plane and keep the standard as is/where is.

This would require some precise measuring, but then all the dimensional changing could be incorporated into the back modification. What I am not sure about is if the longer focal length would adversely affect the cam for the rangefinder. The focal length would be extended from 12.7cm to 15cm, which comes out to 2.3cm longer (almost one inch) added in the back mod.

One way to measure the distance the film plane has to be moved back for 4x5 coverage, would be to gut the center out of a 4X5 film holder and use some strips to mount it one inch behind the existing film plane (the opening for the pack film). Then take a thin straight edge and align it from the center of the back element of the existing lens (front standard extended and RF racked forward) and lean it against the side or end openings. If it touches the 4X5 holder before it touches the original pack film opening, you have clearance. check all 4 sides. If the straightedge has a gap at the pack film opening all around, you can move the 4X5 holder closer to the body.

Once you have a distance to use, you can start configuring a mount for the groundglass or other film holding device.

My thinking is that if 2.3cm back gives you the clearance, and you consider a 150 lens with approximately the same dimensions as the rodenstock 127, then the front standard may be left in place.

Pictures of all these operations can be found on the internet, or on the CD that Razzle was selling some time back on ebay.

Lars

[sully75]

Can I just say: I was the one who asked that question on photo.net that started that sh1tstorm. It's still amazing to me that the post is still referred to.

My friend ended up buying a razzle. I shot digital for 5 years after that and am only now making my way back to LF.

Paul