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View Full Version : Super Chromega D Dichroic II D5-XL, seeking advice



pau3
20-Mar-2010, 02:27
Dear all,

this is my first post to this forum. Some time ago I made the mistake
to purchase a Sinar F2. Now I have a bunch of 4x5 negatives that I can
only contact print, because the enlargers I have right now only go to 6x7.
Consequently, I started to look for a 4x5 enlarger...

Yesterday I came across an add offering locally (I'm in Barcelona)
a Super Chromega D Dichroic II D5-XL. Next week I will take a look and if
everything is all right, I will probably buy it. Is there anything I should know
about these enlargers? Any special detail I should pay attention to?

Best regards,
Pau

Greg Blank
20-Mar-2010, 05:59
Depending on the age make sure the filter wheels dial smoothly to 150 0r 170.
Also make sure they zero. Pull out the mixing box and look at the diffuser on its bottom side - it should be white. While the mix box is out dial the filter wheels to make sure the filters are moving when set to high or low - but not white light.

Make sure the bulb lights. If your looking at the whole enlarger make sure it raises and lowers smoothly and that the bellows extends and will lock at any specified place.




Dear all,

this is my first post to this forum. Some time ago I made the mistake
to purchase a Sinar F2. Now I have a bunch of 4x5 negatives that I can
only contact print, because the enlargers I have right now only go to 6x7.
Consequently, I started to look for a 4x5 enlarger...

Yesterday I came across an add offering locally (I'm in Barcelona)
a Super Chromega D Dichroic II D5-XL. Next week I will take a look and if
everything is all right, I will probably buy it. Is there anything I should know
about these enlargers? Any special detail I should pay attention to?

Best regards,
Pau

d.s.
20-Mar-2010, 06:29
Pau3,
Everything Greg said, + Make sure the power supply works.
The one I bought a couple of weeks ago looked great at the previous owners house so I bought it without looking very close at the insides and the power supply was already boxed up.
Upon getting it home, I discovered the power switch on the power supply was broken, (which I fixed for small $), and the Cyan filter was broken. (not needed for B&W prints), but I've ordered a new one anyway.
The leaver that locks the lens stage adjustment would turn with difficulty but it didn't unlock. I had to remove the knob, use pliers to remove the lock screw so I could clean it up with a wire brush, put on a little anti-sieze, and now it works fine. The only other thing I found was dust.

So... look everything over very closely. Every screw, nut, and component. Turn it on and check the operation of controls and listen for the fan.
The darkroom environment is a corrosive place and over years can take it's toll on the equipment.
Adjust the price according to what you find and good-luck.

d.s.

Raymond Bleesz
20-Mar-2010, 07:15
Thank you for posting the question & the responses as I too have the same enlarger.

My question is: The Cyan wheel offers some resistance towards the end of the run from 000 to approx 170--it is not as smooth as the other 2 wheels--Can one correct this "resistance" so that the wheel runs "smooth" from 000 to 170 or just live with it?

Raymond

ic-racer
20-Mar-2010, 08:18
Thank you for posting the question & the responses as I too have the same enlarger.

My question is: The Cyan wheel offers some resistance towards the end of the run from 000 to approx 170--it is not as smooth as the other 2 wheels--Can one correct this "resistance" so that the wheel runs "smooth" from 000 to 170 or just live with it?

Raymond

The last one I fixed up had some resistance in the Cyan wheel also. I think it was from the gear teeth getting a little damaged. I didn't do anything about it because the enlarger was to be used for multigrade printing.

Also, to paul3, if the color wheels don't all go to zero that is OK. There was a way to 'normalize' the filtration so all the color wheels read zero with your standard color pack. The manual tells how to re-set it back to the way you would want for multigrade printing.

Larry Gebhardt
20-Mar-2010, 08:29
I had my chromegatrol (power supply with integrated timer) die on me. I think this is very common. I got another plain old power supply (no timer), and it worked fine. However the plain power supply doesn't have voltage stabilization without an add-on module. You may want to get an external voltage stabilizer.

You can reset the zero position of the dials. Make sure all the filters move all the way in and out (look down from the top with the cover removed. Also check the mixing box to make sure it isn't scratched up.

pau3
20-Mar-2010, 11:10
Thank you for all your answers. I had already thought about the filters, but I will
be extra careful. However, I'm glad it is still possible to order parts.

Does anybody know if this enlarger has any particular problem with alignment?

Thank you again.
Best,
Pau

Larry Gebhardt
20-Mar-2010, 18:17
The D5 XL is very easy to align, and generally stays in alignment once set. However after moving it will almost certainly need to be aligned. Get or make a laser alignment tool instead of the level used in the manual and it will go quickly.

tgtaylor
20-Mar-2010, 23:30
Also, when you look at the mixing box check that the diffusion/heat absorbing glass is not scratched. If it is, then the scratches will show up on your prints. You can buy replacement glass but it cost ~$40US for the Beseler. I don't know how much for the Omega.

Good idea to clean the glass while you have it out as settled particles may show up as dust spots on your prints.

ic-racer
21-Mar-2010, 09:39
Also, when you look at the mixing box check that the diffusion/heat absorbing glass is not scratched. If it is, then the scratches will show up on your prints. You can buy replacement glass but it cost ~$40US for the Beseler. I don't know how much for the Omega.

Good idea to clean the glass while you have it out as settled particles may show up as dust spots on your prints.

The one in the Omega is molded plastic. It should still be available new if it is damaged. It is part of the mixing box, and that brings up another point. The styrofoam in the mixing boxes can come apart and lead to unevenness of illumination. You may want to check that out also.

pau3
23-Mar-2010, 14:06
Thank you all again. The Super Chromega now sits in my darkroom, which, by the way,
I have had to rebuild, because it's only 2 square meters in size and I want to keep
my LPL 7700. It took some time to put that thing together, and I should check for
alignment, but I cannot wait to use it with some 4x5 negatives I have! This is so exciting!

Best,
Pau