What B&W enlarging paper do you recommend?

[Jon Wilson]

Well, I am a newbie in printing B&W prints. I will have my darkroom fully function by the end of March. I will have installed a Durst CLS-2000 (8x10) enlarger. The only print paper I have are 4x5 and 8x10 AZO. I want to order some B&W paper and developer. From what can presently be ordered in the US, what do you recommend and why?
All assistance is truly appreciated. Thank you. Jon

[ic-racer]

The Ilford multigrade is very nice. Even the RC. The RC is a little easier to process and handle in the bigger sizes if you are just starting out.

One nice thing about the Ilford Multigrade papers is that the values on the contrast printing chart in the paper insert are well tuned to your CLS2000. I have made my own calibration charts, but for the CLS2000 those Ilford supplied values are perfect.

The paper works well in their own developer and it also works fine in Kodak's Dektol (which is a lot cheaper).

[Jon Wilson]

The Ilford multigrade is very nice. Even the RC. The RC is a little easier to process and handle in the bigger sizes if you are just starting out.

One nice thing about the Ilford Multigrade papers is that the values on the contrast printing chart in the paper insert are well tuned to your CLS2000. I have made my own calibration charts, but for the CLS2000 those Ilford supplied values are perfect.

The paper works well in their own developer and it also works fine in Kodak's Dektol (which is a lot cheaper).

Thank you. I have just placed an order so it will be on hand when my darkroom becomes inaugurated. BTW, have you used PF130 developer? If yes, what are your impressions/experiences?

Thank you again. Jon

[Eric Biggerstaff]

Adox MC 110
Foma Varient 111
Ilford FB Warmtone

The best thing to do is order a few different papers in 8X10 (small packs like 25 sheets) and try them out. Everypaper has it's own look and one persons favorite may not be right for you. I used Ilford MGFB IV for several years and now I find the look a little plain for my taste. Get a few different papers, choose one neg and print it the best you can on each then compare. Also, every paper reacts differntly to toning so you will want to test that as well.

The same is true for developers. I am a fan of liquid developers as I don't like mixing powders. So, you might want to try something like Clayton P-20, it is inexpensive and a very nice developer (in fact I find most Clayton chemicals a great value for the quality).

Freestyle Photo as a huge selection of papers and developers.

Good luck and have fun.

[John Kasaian]

Fomabrom FB
Fotokemika Emaks
SLavich Unibrom
and of course Ilford Galerie
Does anyone know the status of Kentmere Bromide? I've heard that Harmon Technologies axed some Kentmere papers :(

[Sanjay Sen]

Harman Technologies acquired Kentmere and axed some of their papers, Centennial POP and Kentona among them. Although I don't recall Simon Galley specifically mentioning that Bromide was also discontinued, it is believed by many that it is. There is a long thread (http://www.apug.org/forums/forum172/60144-kentmere-range-update-harman.html) over on APUG with some information. Kentmere's website (http://www.kentmere.co.uk/products/producttype.asp?n=11&t=Kentmere+Photo+Papers) still lists this paper, and Freestyle has it in stock, at least for the time being. So, you can draw your own conclusions. :)

[Sal Santamaura]

Start with the best and don't look back.

Paper -- MCC 110:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/15682-Adox-Premium-MCC-110-VC-FB-8x10-25-sheets-Glossy?cat_id=503

I linked to 8x10; order whatever size you'd like.

Developer -- depends on what print tone you prefer. For neutral with the MCC 110:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/9424-Agfa-Neutol-NE-1.25-Liter?cat_id=301

and for warm:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/9421-Compard-Print-WA-Same-Formula-As-Agfa-Neutol-WA-1.25-Liter?cat_id=301

My advice is opposite what many will offer; don't use RC until you know how to handle fiber. Even then, only use RC when speed trumps permanence.

[srbphoto]

I vote for starting with Ilford Multi grade. It's easy to find. You have a nice contrast range (in case your negs aren't perfect).

Galerie is beautiful (and my favorite) but gets pricey real quick.

[Peter De Smidt]

Ilford Multigrade FB.

[srbphoto]

i should have that in my post: Multigrade FB

[Jon Wilson]

I truly appreciate everyone's recommendations/guidance, both on the forum and via emails. Thus far, I have ordered a nice selection of B&W paper: Ilford Multigrade FB, SLavich Unibrom, and Adox MC 110. (paper sizes thus far range from 5x7 thru 11x14); I also have seen some "pearl" paper prints which I liked and so also ordered some Ilford RC paper.
I have also ordered some Dektol and PF130.

I hope to have some prints posted of my efforts before the end of March. I will try to post some digital pictures in other threads that pertain to darkrooms.

Keep your suggestions and recommendations coming. Jon

[bob carnie]

My favorite paper is Ilford Warmtone, developed in Dectol 1-1.5, and toned selenium 1:5 for 45 secs.

[Allen in Montreal]

My favorite paper is Ilford Warmtone, developed in Dectol 1-1.5, and toned selenium 1:5 for 45 secs.

Bob,
I recently tested Ilford warm tone and preferred it in Edwal Plat ll for 2.5 minutes over Dektol, but I ran Dektol at 1:2. I will try your formula this week some time, thanks!

Jon, I too am searching for new papers as my old stock runs out, the Ilford warm tone does give very rich blacks (I have only tested 2x 25 sht packs so far).

[Ginette]

Very interesting topic to discover new papers.


Start with the best and don't look back.
Paper -- MCC 110:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/15682-Adox-Premium-MCC-110-VC-FB-8x10-25-sheets-Glossy?cat_id=503
Developer -- depends on what print tone you prefer. For neutral with the MCC 110:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/9424-Agfa-Neutol-NE-1.25-Liter?cat_id=301
and for warm:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/9421-Compard-Print-WA-Same-Formula-As-Agfa-Neutol-WA-1.25-Liter?cat_id=301

This Adox MCC 100 look very interesting for it cold tone - warm tone versatility. Neutrol NE and WA cannot be shipped to Canada (maybe hard to find locally), do you have another developers suggestions? Ilford Harman Warmtone - Cooltone ones? Bromophen for warm tones?
What about the Adox Variotone Warmtone VC?
How theses 2 papers can be compared to Ilford Warmtone.
Anyone tried the new warmer emulsion Oriental Warmtone VC?

[jp]

I use RC paper.

I like Ilford Multigrade Warm Tone and Foma Fomaspeed 311 for neutral tone presently.

Dektol is all I use for developer.

[ic-racer]

FB is nice but for a 'newbie' setting up an 8x10 enlarger for the first time, the added complexity of multibath fixing, archival washing, TS-1 testing, HT-2 testing, FT-1 testing, and creating a multigrade printing calibration chart for an unknown paper all represent added complexity that could be temporarily circumvented by starting out with RC paper.

[bob carnie]

I just finished a box of Argentone Polybrom FB variable glossy for a client.
Actually not a bad cold tone paper, my client liked the prints and supplied the paper so it was fun to give it a go.

Only negative comment , it did dried down and had a slight haze in the deep shadow areas, otherwise very nuetral tones. I would think this paper would sepia tone very nicely.

[Brian Ellis]

I used Dektol for a long time but finally got tired of the effort involved in trying to avoid inhaling the chemical dust (which I always suspected was not totally successful) while I mucked around in 110 degree or so water. If the cost isn't a big deal you might consider starting with a liquid concentrate developer for those reasons. But Dektol is an excellent developer and certainly cheap.

[ki6mf]

Ilford Fiber based multi grade unless your preference is for warm toned or colored papers! I don't print warm toned or sepia so have no recomendation.

[Sal Santamaura]

...do you have another developers suggestions? Ilford Harman Warmtone - Cooltone ones?...The only other developer I've used with MCC 110 (the test coating several years ago) was Agfa Neutol Plus -- a now-discontinued ascorbic-based product. Results were absolutely neutral in that combination. Sorry not to have other suggestions.

PS Harman Cooltone developer is also discontinued. Any product you still find is leftovers in the distribution pipeline.

[neil poulsen]

I used Dektol for a long time but finally got tired of the effort involved in trying to avoid inhaling the chemical dust (which I always suspected was not totally successful) while I mucked around in 110 degree or so water. If the cost isn't a big deal you might consider starting with a liquid concentrate developer for those reasons. But Dektol is an excellent developer and certainly cheap.

If you still use dry chemicals, consider getting a full face mask at Sanderson Safety Supply in Portland. (3rd and about Clay, S.E.) For example, they have one by 3M that's excellent. A little over $100, but well worth it in my view. The idea of having photo-chemical dust embedded in one's lungs is very scary.

[jp]

I really don't think dry chemicals would get embedded in your lungs.

Sand, glass fiber, asbestos can get embedded because they are fairly inert.

Photochemical powders would dissolve. I suspect that process could cause some irritation if you get a bunch.

I've avoided dust pretty well by holding the pouch close to the water when pouring it.

[JohnN]

Try Ilford Ilfobrom Galerie for an exquisite (graded) paper. Although I use variable contrast papers a lot, when it comes to printing PMK Pyro or Max Pyro prints, I expose the negatives on the blue light (only) setting of my VCL 4500 head, and the separation and tonality can't be beat by all of the other papers I have used over the years.

Also, for most of my printing I still use Dektol. There's a reason that Dektol is the paper developer that all other paper developers are measured against.

[Jon Wilson]

Try Ilford Ilfobrom Galerie for an exquisite (graded) paper. Although I use variable contrast papers a lot, when it comes to printing PMK Pyro or Max Pyro prints, I expose the negatives on the blue light (only) setting of my VCL 4500 head, and the separation and tonality can't be beat by all of the other papers I have used over the years.

Also, for most of my printing I still use Dektol. There's a reason that Dektol is the paper developer that all other paper developers are measured against.


Thanks JohnN. Which grade of Ilford Ilfobrom Galerie do you typically use? I have found it is sold by Freestyle Photo in grades 2 and 3.

Thanks. Jon