Focusing a Speed Graphic - Help?

[unkgowa]

Am I the only one that finds focusing with the ground glass for portraits incredibly difficult? Getting everything sharp isn't the problem, I can do that fine and anything that doesn't move is ok, but once I've focused for a portrait and put my double dark slide in either myself or my subject will have moved and the shot will be out of focus..

I do have a side mounted Kalart Rangefinder that isn't calibrated and is pretty filthy but I find it quite awkward to see through it especially when I have a Polaroid back sticking in my face..

I'm going to give a shot at cleaning/calibrating it this weekend, but in the meantime was wondering how everyone else keeps focus for portraits or handheld, and if you've got any tips or suggestions?

Thanks in advance, Harry

[Bill_1856]

Nobody ever said that Large Format photography was easy. Just fix the damn rangefinder.

[unkgowa]

Sorry if I caused any offense..

[jp]

Basically, you can learn what your depth of field will be for some common apertures and distances. Then you will know how much movement is allowed on your part or the subjects part before they are out of focus. Shooting wide open would be tough, especially when close. Smaller apertures like when using flash or bright light will be easy. Using a quality high speed film like TMY2 will let you have 100 speed quality with the sensitivity of 400 so you can have a smaller aperture for more DOF.

For handheld, standing in one place, I focus with the groundglass, note exactly where the subject is standing, estimate my distance, close the shutter, set the aperture, insert the film, cock the shutter, remove the darkslide, double check to make sure they are in the same spot, or are the same distance away, check my composition with the optical finder on top, or the wire frame, then take the shot when I like what I see.

[BrianShaw]

Sorry if I caused any offense..

I don't think you were offensive, but I think Wilhelm was trying to say that with a working and accurate rangefinder you can focus and shoot faster... and might alleviate some of your difficulties with movement.

Let me add a few observations and ideas that I use (since I know EXACTLY what you are experiencing):

1. Bill is right... rangefinder focussing makes everything move faster and less issues with movement.
2. Mounting camera on tripod and ensuring that the subject has something to steady themselves helps. Take a look at the January Portraits thread and you can see what I have done to get good pics of a wiggly 6 year old. Adding the "posing table" has made it a much more pleasant experience for both of us.
3. Shooting adults with LF is much easier than shooting kids!

[David de Gruyl]

You really only have two options (three if you are alright with scale focus):

1. Fix the rangefinder, focus using rf, and adjust framing. You can have the film loaded, darkslide out, and shutter / aperture set for all of this.

2. Use a tripod, focus using ground glass, set the aperture, shutter, prime, put in the film holder, pull the slide, and trigger.

Obviously, handheld is difficult. You have to accept a certain amount of imprecision and such. I doubt that there are many people using ground glass for handheld work, as it is extremely difficult: not enough hands and such. You just barely (assuming the standard number) have enough hands for RF focusing.

Scale focusing (assuming you have a scale that is calibrated) is even more difficult to get accurate and precise results. On the other hand, it is easy to do handheld.

[BrianShaw]

On the other hand, it is easy to do handheld.

Ain't that the truth... especially if one responds in a nasal-ly tone, "I intentionally made the image that way; that is my artistic impression and I think it 'works'." whenever someone comments on how fuzzy the snappy is! :D

[David de Gruyl]

For handheld, standing in one place, I focus with the groundglass, note exactly where the subject is standing, estimate my distance, close the shutter, set the aperture, insert the film, cock the shutter, remove the darkslide, double check to make sure they are in the same spot, or are the same distance away, check my composition with the optical finder on top, or the wire frame, then take the shot when I like what I see.

Curious: do you use a loupe?

I can hardly see the gg with the built in shade. Invariably, I have to use a dark cloth, which coupled with a loupe means: tripod. Of course, that is me, not you. For press cameras, I usually opt for the RF.

[lenser]

Hang on a minute. Before you go to fix the rangefinder, are you sure you have the proper cam and the focal length lens that matches it for the rangefinder to work; and that your infinity stops are set in the right spot for that lens. If not, it's a moot point as your rangefinder focus will be off anyway.

As others have said, use a tripod. Speeds and Crowns were designed for grab shooting like news and sport events back in their day.

Certainly they can take fine portraits, but from a tripod where the camera is stable to remove one variable, likely with a longer lens than you are using now (if you have the standard 135mm or so) for head shots, and with a subject who is also stabilized by having them seated at a posing table, or on a desk, or leaning against a wall or a tree, etc.

If you insist on hand held, you will be much better off doing candid styling and probably full length images since at those distances, minor movements will be less likely to get either you or the subject out of the focus and depth of field range.

[unkgowa]

Thanks for all the replies everybody, lots of help..

Lenser, could you just explain a little more about the cam/focal length thing because I don't really understand it, thanks..

[Dan Fromm]

lenser, the Kalart rangefinder doesn't have coupled cams. The original post contains the word Kalart, there's a hint.

A Kalart can be adjusted for just one lens at a time. Directions for adjusting the Kalart are posted on www.graflex.org and, IIRC, www.southbristolviews.com.

[Dan Fromm]

Thanks for all the replies everybody, lots of help..

Lenser, could you just explain a little more about the cam/focal length thing because I don't really understand it, thanks..lenser made a small error. Not the first time its been made, won't be the last. For some reason people just assume that Kalarts have cams, as many other RFs used on press and field and even technical cameras do. 't'ain't so.

[unkgowa]

Thanks for letting us know Dan..

[lenser]

Thanks, Dan. As you rightly stated I was not aware the Kalarts differed in that they were adjustable for each lens. My experience was years ago with a brand new Crown Graphic and that rangefinder required a separate inserted cam to be interchanged for the 135mm or 90mm lenses that were bought with that camera.

I appreciate the new information.

Tim

[Bill_1856]

Sorry if I caused any offense..

Harry, I believe that I was the one who was offensive. My apologies.

[jp]

Curious: do you use a loupe?

I can hardly see the gg with the built in shade. Invariably, I have to use a dark cloth, which coupled with a loupe means: tripod. Of course, that is me, not you. For press cameras, I usually opt for the RF.

I keep a loupe in my film case, but I haven't used it yet. It's one that came with my epson 7600 printer. I have the metal folding shade around the groundglass. Make sure you have the lens wide open for focusing, even if you stop it down for the photo.

I focus much like one would do with an enlarger and no focusing microscope, I sort of hunt/extrapolate for proper focus.

I bring it roughly and quickly into focus, then make it go out of focus one way till I can tell it's out of focus. Then I bring it out of focus the other way till I can tell it's out of focus, then bring it to a happy medium where things are verified to be in focus.

You do the same thing on an old 35mm split image prism, we just don't have the split in the center to go along with the focusing. Newer DSLRs are the same way with arrows that tell you to turn the focus one way or the other. You spin the focus till the arrow swaps direction, then you bring it back, then you get the focus right.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Old Kalart RFs can be nettlesome if the linkage parts aren't all there or --even if they are-- the RF is incorrectly assembled or adjusted. Too, the semi-silvered beam splitters can need replacement. I'm right in the middle of such a project tonite with my Meridian 45CE. If the camera weren't so damn rare and beautiful I'd probably just move on to another, being that press cameras with RFs that both work and are properly calibrated are common enough.

As others have mentioned, the top RF Crowns and Speeds and Super Graphics accept cams for lens changing whereas the side-mount Kalarts don't. A $250 Super Graphic I picked up last summer here on the forum arrived with perfect RF focus.

[Paul Ewins]

I have a couple of post-war SGs with the side mounted Kalart. The down-side is that you can only set it up for one focal length, but the up-side is that it can be any focal length (within reason) not just the ones you can find a cam for. I have one set up for the usual 135 Optar and the other is set up for a 178 Aero Ektar. Both are accurate from 4' to infinity.

First step would be to take the cover of the Kalart and gently and carefully clean all of the optical parts. Then follow the instructions for adjusting it to match your lens. A tip here - avoid disconnecting or loosening the long arm inside the camera that connects to the focussing rails as it will take a long time to get it back into the right position.

When it is all adjusted properly it will be quite accurate. My technique is to get the composition roughly correct, set the distance roughly by moving the bed and then lean forward or back until the rangefinder is spot on. If I am taking photos with flash-bulb then I just prefocus for a set distance (usually for head and shoulders or waist upwards) and then move in until the rangefinder says spot on. This is all for hand held, if I am using a tripod then it is ground glass focussing.

[David de Gruyl]

As others have mentioned, the top RF Crowns and Speeds and Super Graphics accept cams for lens changing whereas the side-mount Kalarts don't. A $250 Super Graphic I picked up last summer here on the forum arrived with perfect RF focus.

Another interesting thing is the night light feature, which means you can focus the top mounted Crown (etc) without putting anything near your eye. It is a light that shines through the RF and you adjust until you get both spots in the same place on the subject. Very useful if you are working in a dim environment (and using a flash).

I have no idea if the Kalarts have something similar. If they do, getting that to work would also be interesting (for me).

[Paul Ewins]

Yep, the side mounted Kalarts had a thing called a Focuspot which mounted to the top of the rangefinder. You'll probably see a blanking plate there if it is the right one. It is basically just a miniature flash-light that projects beams backwards through the rangefinder. When the beams align on your target it is properly focussed.

[unkgowa]

Harry, I believe that I was the one who was offensive. My apologies.

Not at all Bill, you were totally right with your comment..

Loads of great information here, really useful.. Paul, yours helped especially..

-Harry

[W K Longcor]

The Kalart focus spots were great for night or low light work -- and as long as you can see the projected light spots, should work work for you. They did require a cord and hook up to a large battery tube as in big flash unit. I've been wondering if it might be possible to rig up a similar unit using one of these little double A battery powered LED flashlights --- lighter, more compact and much brighter ????

[unkgowa]

So whereabouts is the light in the rangefinder? And does it shine through to give the light spots?

-Harry

[Dan Fromm]

Harry, I believe you can read about the focuspot at www.graflex.org

It plugs into the top of the Kalart's housing. If there's no focuspot, there will be either a blanking plate or an opening with a clear piece of glass visible on the housing's top.

Yes it shines through. Search more, and you should be able to find directions for using a small laser pointer in place of the original tiny flashlight.

[ki6mf]

I did not see in you post if you have a Loupe? A 4X loupe will help determine when the object is in focus due to magnifying of the image on the ground glass. You can also go to Graflex.org to get information about calibrating the range finder.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

My Meridian 45CE's Kalart is finally back together and accurately focusing. (Turned out to be quite a rehabilitation project for an accessory that originally cost all of $41.50!)

Biggest challenge was determining how best to nip that little 1/2" x 5/8" piece of beam splitter out of the larger square without trashing the remainder. Obviously it's necessary to do only one cut at a time but knocking out an edge in glass can be a little tricky. Found a carbide scribe but couldn't source a Panavise or any stained glass pliers anywhere locally... so I turned an aluminum lens board upside down, on the edge of a table, slid the thin 1/2" scored edge under it in a paper towel, scored side down. Putting hand pressure on the lens board and lifting up sharply on the glass sheet hanging out in the breeze got it done. Duckbill pliers with the jaws covered in heat-shrink were used for the second snap.

The beam splitter material from Edmund's wasn't the same thickness, it was much thinner glass. Reasoned that it wouldn't matter much so long as silvered side facing out occupied the same plane as the original. Shimmed it out using a split, shaved wooden matchstick and-- in keeping with the period-- I affixed it with Duco Cement.

I've probably got enough beam-splitter left over for at least half a dozen more cameras.

The 15 foot and 4 foot adjustment took several iterations each before it was dead on, but these adjustments were relatively easy compared to getting the large rack follower arm re-positioned on the Kalart shaft at a point that infinity was possible.
Finding the itsy-bitsy setscrews and Allen keys in the old-school hardware store just up the street was an amazing bit of luck.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

If anyone has done a neat & tidy LED laser pointer conversion for a Focuspot, I'd love to see it.

[David de Gruyl]

If anyone has done a neat & tidy LED laser pointer conversion for a Focuspot, I'd love to see it.

I don't know about the focuspot, but with the top mounted ones, part of that beam is directed into your eye if you inadvertently trigger it while looking at the RF. Laser would probably be a bad idea.

[unkgowa]

If anyone has done a neat & tidy LED laser pointer conversion for a Focuspot, I'd love to see it.

I just read someone's successful account of this yesterday.. I'll just try and find it again..

-Harry

[unkgowa]

Here we go-

http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=5540

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Information about which laser pointer to use is what I'm most interested in. I've got several already-- but haven't got one that'd be a good and tidy fit just yet. With the thousands of cheap pointers out there of every description, there must be something exactly the right diameter to fit the Focuspot port; could save a lot of gas and shoe leather if somebody knows where to source one already and were to post the specifics.

The URL to the page in Italian shows what looks like a top-mount Kalart? These didn't come with Focuspots originally-- or did they? Though this wouldn't so much matter as long as there's room enough inside, eh? How do I get at disassembling the RF to set this up in my Super Graphic? (Can it be done without screwing up a perfectly functioning Super Graphic rangefinder?)

[Dan Fromm]

Ivan, go to www.graflex.org and read the FAQs.

The top-mounted rangefinders on 4x5 Pacemaker Graphics (introduced in 1955, IIRC) are Graflex' own and contain a little lamp that provides the same effect as the Focuspot.

I believe that your Super Graphic has one too. IIRC there's a little red button on top that activates it. Won't work without the battery.

[BrianShaw]

I believe that your Super Graphic has one too. IIRC there's a little red button on top that activates it. Won't work without the battery.

Nope, no Focuspot on Super Graphic. Little red button trips the shutter.

[Dan Fromm]

Thanks, Brian. Wrong again, even though I weaseled with IIRC.

Cheers,

Dan

[eddie]

i got her e a bit late. i do not use a rangefinder.

use a head brace if you can get one. if not sit the person in a position/chair in a comfortable position that is easy to hold. sit them so they are resting ion the back of the chair. sometimes i attach a stick to the chair so it gives them something to rest their head on.

explain to the person that moving forward or back is worse than side to side. smiling is very difficult to do for most people on longer exposures (over 3 sec). once you and your model have worked together you will find it becomes easier.

i shoot wet plate collodion so the exposure times are usually never below 1 sec. most are 5-8 seconds. the photos here (http://photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=952958)are all about a 2 second exposure.

i also find that using a lens a bit longer than "normal" will also help. this allows you to be farther away from the subject. this will make your DOF larger as well. the photos above were shot on 5x7 plates. all were a 15 inch lens except the below image. this one was an 18 inch lens. i usually do not use them THAT long but i had planned to shoot 8x10 with the above kit....but ended up using 5x7 for a test and never changed the back. (for 8x10 i like 16-18 inches. for 5x7 i use 12-14 inch lenses)

i hope this helps. practice for the both of you will make it easier to do (most LF shooters make good subjects as they understand the intricacies.)

eddie

[BetterSense]

i also find that using a lens a bit longer than "normal" will also help. this allows you to be farther away from the subject. this will make your DOF larger as well.

Isn't this an illusion? I thought that for the same magnification, different focal length lenses had the same DOF. In other words, if you fill the frame with the person, you can use any length lens you want and will have the same dof in the vicinity of the person.

[jan labij]

When I worked for a nickel-dime newspaper, hand held the rule was "f8 and be there" We used f8 because it gave decent depth of field. We composed to cover 60-66% of the negative, set range at 15 feet and shot.

[rdenney]

When I worked for a nickel-dime newspaper, hand held the rule was "f8 and be there" We used f8 because it gave decent depth of field. We composed to cover 60-66% of the negative, set range at 15 feet and shot.

F/8's depth of field won't be that decent for large format. Assuming an 8x10" print and a reasonable circle of confusion standard, f/8 on a 135mm press-camera lens shooting 4x5 film, and focused on a subject 6 feet away (as for a portrait) would provide between 10 and 11 inches of depth of field. Probably enough to avoid too much loss due to subject movement, but not nearly enough to allow scale focusing without a really precise and accurate focus scale. For a 16x20" print, the depth of field meeting the same standard of sharpness would drop down to less than three inches. But for a Polaroid, which is unenlarged, the depth of field might be 3 feet.

Portraits often use a longer lens. With my 8-1/2" Paragon that I use on my Speed Graphic, the depth of field assuming that 8x10" print would only be about four inches.

Also, stopping down isn't necessarily the answer. If one desires selective focus, which one often does in portraiture (as opposed to reportage), the needed aperture might be wide open. At the f/4.5 aperture of many press lenses, the depth of field will be half what it is at f/8.

Newspaper photos might be a poor example for two reasons. The first is that they are rarely enlarged beyond two or three columns, and represent little if any enlargement of a 4x5 negative. The second is that the 90-line half-tone screen typical for printing photos on newsprint imposes a very low standard of sharpness.

For hand-held work, a functioning rangefinder is really essential, even if it is used to focus on a spot before the subject reaches it.

Rick "since we have dredged up a past thread" Denney

[BetterSense]

I've also noticed that a lot of people are familiar with the "f/8 and be there" saying, but they probably are not familiar with just how little DOF f/8 provides on 4x5. The 35mm camera equivalent is probably more like "f/2.8 and be there".

[domaz]

I thought the LF equivalent was "f/32 and be there an hour early".

[jan labij]

I should have added we used at least press25 flashbulbs and shot on ansco super-pan press asa 125 @ f16 shutter 1/50. The reason for the flash was to permit f16. I set the lens @ 12 feet, because I'm 6 feet tall. The press 25 was strong enough. #22's would have been like hunting mosquitoes with a sledge hammer.