Kodak 2D price?

[Heather Love]

I am looking to buy an 8x10 Kodak 2D and want to know about how much it is going to cost. Any ideas? Thanks!

[Robert Hughes]

Depends on how pricey it is, right?

[BradS]

prices are all over the place and depend very much on the condition of the camera and completeness of the kit. A 2-D with out the sliding tripod block, for example is worth considerably less than one with (everything else being equal).

As a very rough guideline however, it seems like one can expect to spend $250~$500 for an 8x10 Kodak 2D in good working condition with the extension rail, tripod block and light tight bellows.

[Mike1234]

Heather... I have a complete 8x10 2D in very nice condition. It includes the sliding tripod block, lens board (maybe two), extension rail and the red bellows is beautiful. If you're interested I'll unpack it and assure the bellows is light tight. I think I also have a 4x5 reducing back I'll include for a fair price.

Please let me know soon if you're interested because I'm packing out my house and I don't want to lose track of it!! :)

[Heather Love]

Heather... I have a complete 8x10 2D in very nice condition. It includes the sliding tripod block, lens board (maybe two), extension rail and the red bellows is beautiful. If you're interested I'll unpack it and assure the bellows is light tight. I think I also have a 4x5 reducing back I'll include for a fair price.

Please let me know soon if you're interested because I'm packing out my house and I don't want to lose track of it!! :)

Mike- I sent you a message about the camera. :)

[Steve Hamley]

Heather,

Condition and completeness is everything. What you (probably) don't want to get into is replacing a bellows because of the cost and time.

Other than the required good bellows, the important pieces are the extension rail and the sliding tripod block. You can get by without the block, but the extension rail is necessary.

No extension rail, no tripod block, bad bellows - essentially worthless except for parts.

Extension rail, no block, good bellows, average condition - $150-200

Extension rail, block, good bellows, nice condition to pretty - $300 - 400

I'd be skeptical of paying more than $400 unless it had some "sweeteners" like holders, an old lens, tripod, case, etc.

Cheers, Steve

[Mike1234]

Heather... PM replied to. I'll post the pics here so others can comment on the condition.

[Ken Lee]

Dunno about the 8x10, but the 5x7 Kodak 2D a nice camera in the field: It has front rise, rear tilt and swing: plenty for most landscape shots.

They made a nice camera back then !

[Brian Ellis]

I've bought two 2Ds, one about 7 years ago, the other about 4 years ago. Both cost around $400. The first was mint mint condition, I've kicked myself ever since for selling it. The second was in very good but not mint condition. Both came with the back rail extension and the sliding tripod block, which IMHO are indispensable accessories unless you know you'll never use a lens longer than about 300 - 400 mm. Richard Ritter added front tilt to the first one which added another $250 to the cost of the camera but I missed that movement so it was worth it to me. You should make sure that the numbers on the extension rail and the camera match. Kodak mated each rail with each camera and put matching numbers on each. If the numbers don't match there's a possibility that the rail won't fit properly.

If prices are still in the range I paid for mine I think the 2D is a great bargain in 8x10 cameras, assuming you get the two accessories mentioned above with it and the camera is in very good condition.

[Mike1234]

Here are the pics...

right rear... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5871.jpg

left rear... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5870.jpg

right front... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5874.jpg

left front... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5873.jpg

sliding block... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5881.jpg

plate... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5883.jpg

bellows close-up... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5882.jpg

close-up of rear hardware... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5879.jpg

reducing back (5x7 not 4x5) (will have good GG before shipping)... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5884.jpg

4x5 spring back to make your own (or have made) a 4x5 reducing back... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5867.jpg

four of 8 leans boards (far right one and another -see next pic- included w/ camera)... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5868.jpg

last of 4 lens boards (left one included w/ camera -2 total-)... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5869.jpg

Some of the lens boards need rapair on an edge or corner. I would use JB Weld and matching paint for those. If you want to buy them as-is the damaged ones are cheap. If I repair them the price goes up. The retaining rings are not included. The far right board is metal.

As you can see there is a rare recessed board available. That one happens to have a 300mm Apo Ronar mounted in it with a solenoid controlled Packard-type shutter on the back. Any interest in the lens, shutter, or recessed board?

Price depends on what you want but the basic camera with the 2 good flat boards as stated above, 8x10 back, extension rail, and sliding block is $395. The 5x7 back (I'll replace GG) adds another $75. We can openly negotiate right here in open forum for anything else you might want. The more you buy the better deal I can give. The bottom line is I need cash and am ready to deal.

Oh... and the bellows is light-tight at full extension!!

Lastly, I have several nice wooden 8x10 film holders available... $20 each w/ camera.

[BradS]

Mike, I'll buy that 5x7 reducing back from you if the OP doesn't want it.

PM me...let me know. I have cash in hand!

[Jim C.]

Extension rail, block, good bellows, nice condition to pretty - $300 - 400

I'm going to add to Steve Hamleys' last pricing with a caveat that the rear extension rail
should have a matching number, stamped on the back of the base, and the mating face
of the rear extension, if they don't have matching numbers it will still be usable but the
camera back will not slide as smoothly onto the rear extension and it may be a
struggle to fit and screw on the rear extension since there are locator pins on it that
match the holes on the base.

[Mike1234]

Mike, I'll buy that 5x7 reducing back from you if the OP doesn't want it.

PM me...let me know. I have cash in hand!

Will do, Brad. However, I have about 4 5x7 reducing backs that will fit the 2D 8x10. They just need the little brass brads properly positioned and pre-drilled/nailed in for proper position/retention. If the OP takes this one I'll add the brads to another one to make it work. When the time comes I'll PM links to pics so you can have your choice. Please keep in mind the price quoted to the OP is for a "package price" with the camera. :)

[Mike1234]

JIM... the numbers match (#15).

[Mark Sawyer]

Heather ~ I'll note that I've deealt with Mike and we were both happy with the deal.

I'll also compliment you on your choice of the 2D; I have several 8x10's, including a very nice Kodak Master worth maybe 3 times a 2D, but the 2D is the 8x10 I turn to most often. Maybe it's just because it was my first 8x10 and a sentimental favorite, but I've never found it wanting, and it's never let me down.

Do buy one in the best condition possible. When you consider the little extra it costs, it's very worth it. If you're serious about working with 8x10 over the long term, (and long term is really the only way to approach it), this may well be your "life-time" camera. View cameras don't become obsolete when next year's model comes out.

BTW, the slidingtripod block should be considered a necessity. You can slide it to straddle where the rail folds down to meet the mid-section and it stabilizes that joint a bit. That position very often balances the camera over the tripod very nicely.

Best wishes on finding that "just right" camera.

[Heather Love]

Here are the pics...

right rear... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5871.jpg

left rear... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5870.jpg

right front... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5874.jpg

left front... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5873.jpg

sliding block... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5881.jpg

plate... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5883.jpg

bellows close-up... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5882.jpg

close-up of rear hardware... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5879.jpg

reducing back (5x7 not 4x5) (will have good GG before shipping)... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5884.jpg

4x5 spring back to make your own (or have made) a 4x5 reducing back... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5867.jpg

four of 8 leans boards (far right one and another -see next pic- included w/ camera)... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5868.jpg

last of 4 lens boards (left one included w/ camera -2 total-)... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x214/250_GTO/Photo/DSCN5869.jpg

Some of the lens boards need rapair on an edge or corner. I would use JB Weld and matching paint for those. If you want to buy them as-is the damaged ones are cheap. If I repair them the price goes up. The retaining rings are not included. The far right board is metal.

As you can see there is a rare recessed board available. That one happens to have a 300mm Apo Ronar mounted in it with a solenoid controlled Packard-type shutter on the back. Any interest in the lens, shutter, or recessed board?

Price depends on what you want but the basic camera with the 2 good flat boards as stated above, 8x10 back, extension rail, and sliding block is $395. The 5x7 back (I'll replace GG) adds another $75. We can openly negotiate right here in open forum for anything else you might want. The more you buy the better deal I can give. The bottom line is I need cash and am ready to deal.

Oh... and the bellows is light-tight at full extension!!

Lastly, I have several nice wooden 8x10 film holders available... $20 each w/ camera.

Mike- this is just what I was looking for! I would like the 5x7 back as well. Could the film holders be easily converted to wet-plate? How much for the 4x5 spring board? What would I need to do to it to make it a reducing back? Do you happen to have a portrait lens?

[Eric Woodbury]

I got one off ebay about 4 years ago. Very good nearly new black bellows, a good working camera with front and rear extensions and I'm pretty sure about the tripod block. You can tell how much I use it. The geared rear tilt was missing a gear on one side, but I have since picked up an extra rear standard for parts, although I can't figure how to get that apart. And the whole thing came in a very nice case. It was $225 and the extra parts were $20. They are pretty cheap. I put a lens board adapter on it that I made to take a Linhof board.

[Mike1234]

Mike- this is just what I was looking for! I would like the 5x7 back as well. Could the film holders be easily converted to wet-plate? How much for the 4x5 spring board? What would I need to do to it to make it a reducing back? Do you happen to have a portrait lens?

If you buy the camera and 5x7 reducing back I'll include the 4x5 spring back gratis. Heck, I'll include two 8x10 wooden holders too.

I don't think regular sheet film holders can be converted to glass plate. I "might" have some glass plate holders but I don't know if they'll fit this camera... I think they're European. However, if I find any that fit I'll include them at below market value. Please note that good glass plate holders are a bit pricier than used modern sheet film holders due to rarity. If I find any I'll post asking price publicly right here.

To make a 4x5 reducing back I would first remove the basic spring back assembly from its current mount (I think it's just screwed on). It's easy/cheap to have a piece of nicely veneered plywood cut to size and rabetted on the edge to slip into place and make a light-tight seal. After that, just cut a properly sized rectangle in the center and mount the 4x5 spring back over that. Then nail some brass brads into the edges so it will lock into place. Lastly, paint the edges black then stain and seal. It's really quite easy. I would offer to do it here for a price but time is quite valuable to me at the moment.

As for a portrait lens... I doubt I have what you'll want. If you're shooting glass plates you probably want a vintage portrait optic and that is not something I'm well versed in. I urge you to post a new thread asking for advice on that matter. There are several experts here and on apug.org who can help with that. Essentially though... I consider working distance the most important factor due to getting the correct perspective. To fill an 8x10 frame with a head-and-shoulders portrait I wouldn't use a lens shorter than 600mm and this is incredibly difficult given the bellows draw needed. With this camera I would shoot 5x7 and shoot with a 450mm (for head-and-shoulders portraits).

I hope some of this helps.

[Jim C.]

The geared rear tilt was missing a gear on one side, but I have since picked up an extra rear standard for parts, although I can't figure how to get that apart.

The pivot pins need to be removed to take the rear standard apart, depending on
the age of the 2D you can unscrew a washer/nut with a pin spanner and
the pivot pins push out, later models the pivot pins were actually a rivet,
I clipped the mushroomed end ( on the inside the standard ) with a pair
of flush cutting wire cutters, working around the mushroom a few times
till it cracks off. Wear eye protection, the brass seems pretty brittle, and save the
pivots they can be easily reused.

Sent you a PM

[Heather Love]

If you buy the camera and 5x7 reducing back I'll include the 4x5 spring back gratis. Heck, I'll include two 8x10 wooden holders too.

I don't think regular sheet film holders can be converted to glass plate. I "might" have some glass plate holders but I don't know if they'll fit this camera... I think they're European. However, if I find any that fit I'll include them at below market value. Please note that good glass plate holders are a bit pricier than modern sheet film holders due to rarity. If I find any I'll post asking price publicly right here.

To make a 4x5 reducing back I would first remove the basic spring back assembly from its current mount (I think it's just screwed on). It's easy/cheap to have a piece of nicely veneered plywood cut to size and rabetted on the edge to slip into place and make a light-tight seal. After that, just cut a properly sized rectangle in the center and mount the 4x5 spring back over that. Then nail some brass brads into the edges so it will lock into place. Lastly, paint the edges black then stain and seal. It's really quite easy. I would offer to do it here for a price but time is quite valuable to me at the moment.

As for a portrait lens... I doubt I have what you'll want. If you're shooting glass plates you probably want a vintage portrait optic and that is not something I'm well versed in. I urge you to post a new thread asking for advice on that matter. There are several experts here and on apug.org who can help with that. Essentially though... I consider working distance the most important factor due to getting the correct perspective. To fill an 8x10 frame with a head-and-shoulders portrait I wouldn't use a lens shorter than 600mm and this is incredibly difficult given the bellows draw needed. With this camera I would shoot 5x7 and shoot with a 450mm (for head-and-shoulders portraits).

I hope some of this helps.

Great, I really appreciate this! Do you have an idea of how much it is going to cost to ship? I don't necessarily want the lens for portraits. I want it to add a swirling effect to my landscapes.

[Steve Hamley]

Heather,

I probably have a plate holder or two I can spare, I'll have to go through them tomorrow and see. They're probably not beautiful but should be usable.

Take a look at Jim Galli's page; he uses a 2D much of the time.

http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/

Cheers, Steve

[Heather Love]

If you buy the camera and 5x7 reducing back I'll include the 4x5 spring back gratis. Heck, I'll include two 8x10 wooden holders too.

I don't think regular sheet film holders can be converted to glass plate. I "might" have some glass plate holders but I don't know if they'll fit this camera... I think they're European. However, if I find any that fit I'll include them at below market value. Please note that good glass plate holders are a bit pricier than modern sheet film holders due to rarity. If I find any I'll post asking price publicly right here.

To make a 4x5 reducing back I would first remove the basic spring back assembly from its current mount (I think it's just screwed on). It's easy/cheap to have a piece of nicely veneered plywood cut to size and rabetted on the edge to slip into place and make a light-tight seal. After that, just cut a properly sized rectangle in the center and mount the 4x5 spring back over that. Then nail some brass brads into the edges so it will lock into place. Lastly, paint the edges black then stain and seal. It's really quite easy. I would offer to do it here for a price but time is quite valuable to me at the moment.

As for a portrait lens... I doubt I have what you'll want. If you're shooting glass plates you probably want a vintage portrait optic and that is not something I'm well versed in. I urge you to post a new thread asking for advice on that matter. There are several experts here and on apug.org who can help with that. Essentially though... I consider working distance the most important factor due to getting the correct perspective. To fill an 8x10 frame with a head-and-shoulders portrait I wouldn't use a lens shorter than 600mm and this is incredibly difficult given the bellows draw needed. With this camera I would shoot 5x7 and shoot with a 450mm (for head-and-shoulders portraits).

I hope some of this helps.

Great, I really appreciate this! Do you have an idea of how much it is going to cost to ship? I don't necessarily want the lens for portraits. I want it to add a swirling effect to my landscapes. I guess what I am looking for is like a petzval. Do you have any ideas where I could find a glass plate holder that would work with this camera?

[Heather Love]

Heather,

I probably have a plate holder or two I can spare, I'll have to go through them tomorrow and see. They're probably not beautiful but should be usable.

Take a look at Jim Galli's page; he uses a 2D much of the time.

http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/

Cheers, Steve

Thanks I would really appreciate that! :)

[Mike1234]

Great, I really appreciate this! Do you have an idea of how much it is going to cost to ship? I don't necessarily want the lens for portraits. I want it to add a swirling effect to my landscapes.

I have but one lens which may interest you and it's quite an oddball. I believe it's cobbled together from parts but the effect does look interesting... it's in an Alphax shutter that seems accurate and it'll be pretty cheap if you buy the lens and 5x7 reducing back. It's a strange bugger with a front-mounted iris. I really have no idea what it is/was. I have no examples because I haven't used it but I've seen the image on the GG... looks like a really nice fit for your needs... sort of Imagon-like... but not.

[Heather Love]

I have but one lens which may interest you and it's quite an oddball. I believe it's cobbled together from parts but the effect does look interesting... it's in an Alphax shutter that seems accurate and it'll be pretty cheap if you buy the lens and 5x7 reducing back. It's a strange bugger with a front-mounted iris. I really have no idea what it is/was. I have no examples because I haven't used it but I've seen the image on the GG... looks like a really nice fit for your needs... sort of Imagon-like... but not.

Sounds interesting, is it in good condition? So when the iris is mounted on the front does that mean the lens would be in the camera?

[Mike1234]

No, the shutter mounts as usual... on the front of the board with the retaining ring on back. The rear cell is held in place behind the shutter with a strip of leather and the iris is screwed into the front of the shutter. It's very strange... never seen anything like it. It more than covers 8x10 and would make for some very interesting landscapes. Like I said... cheap with the other gear. I need the cash. Yes, it's in very nice condition and the shutter sounds accurate.

In fact, I'll offer a seven day in-your-hands guarantee on everything sans shipping costs. I'm very confident you'll be very pleased with what you buy from me. You can't lose.

[Heather Love]

No, the shutter mounts as usual... on the front of the board with the retaining ring on back. The rear cell is held in place behind the shutter with a strip of leather and the iris is screwed into the front of the shutter. It's very strange... never seen anything like it. It more than covers 8x10 and would make for some very interesting landscapes. Like I said... cheap with the other gear. I need the cash. Yes, it's in very nice condition and the shutter sounds accurate.

In fact, I'll offer a seven day in-your-hands guarantee on everything sans shipping costs. I'm very confident you'll be very pleased with what you buy from me. You can't lose.

Okay, so how much do you want for the lens? Do you have a paypal account? Or how is this going down? :D

[Mike1234]

I'll take $125 for the lens if you buy the camera and reducing back. So the total due is $595 plus shipping. I estimate the shipping and insurance at about $35 which brings the total to $630.

As many here know I don't support any credit card oriented companies. A Postal MO, Cashier's Check or Money Gram are fine... whatever is more convenient for you. I'll PM my mailing address.

All the Best,
Mike

[Curt]

I have the 5x7 Kodak 2D and the 8x10 also, both with extensions. I'm refinishing the 8x10 right now and am almost done with it. The 5x7 only needed to be cleaned off a little. They are sturdy and will hold some big lenses. I don't have the slider blocks but I can make them and will as the camera gets extended out without the extension rail.

The 8x10 was sitting in a box for several years until I got it out a month ago and started looking at it. I bought an extension and found it didn't work as a rear extension. Funny thing is the original gears didn't track well on the original camera front rail. I was going to re-gear and rack it but when I bought the extension rail I found the front standard gears like the rear extension. So I tried the original front extension on the original rear standard with original gears and it like that and worked smoothly. The grooves on the main block were torn up by missing wood so I glued in new strips and re-grooved it. I changed the hardware by adding new hinges on the front and changed the connecting bolts from an incomplete 5x7 donor and all is in good working order. I did all of this because the original leather bellows is in fantastic shape, pliable and without any holes or pinholes.

I would love to go back in time and visit the factory where these were made and see how the wood and metal parts were made. You can see on some parts like the bottom of the standards where the gear shafts go that the wood was rough sawn and not finish sanded at all. They didn't bother to finish the camera in places that didn't show. They were practical camera it appears.

[Kirk Gittings]

Ok all, does everyone not know there is a For Sale/Wanted forum where ALL of this belongs and that new members are not allowed to access it for 30 days? This is all a way to circumvent the rules. Mike you are killing me man......

[neil poulsen]

I have a 2D and noticed that the top of the bellows obscures about the top 1/4" to 1/2" of the negative with any kind of rise.

Maybe mine has a non-standard bellows? I thought that I would mention it, though.