Kodak 2D 5X7 bellows frames

[Jim C.]

I'm currently at a point in my 2D restorations that I'm going to tackle bellows making
the 8X10 2D that I have has what's left of the bellows and more importantly the frames
that the bellows are glued to, but the 5X7 2D, which was meant to be a parts camera
didn't have bellows, it was too 'complete' for me to cannibalize so it became my
test bed for restoring efforts.:D

Could anyone with a 5X7 2D measure the front bellows as well as the rear frame inside opening
( viewed without the back ) and post some measurements ?

I'll need a outer, inner opening front measurement as well as thickness of wood 'to make new frames,
the rear I know is 7 7/8 " square outer, but I don't know the thickness of the wood or the inner opening size.

[Ken Lee]

I can do it when I get home in the evening, USA EST time.

[Richard Wasserman]

Jim,

Your timing is perfect, I was just about to pack mine up to send to Camera Bellows in England for a new bellows and have it here on my desk.

The front measures:

Outside-6 5/16 x 5 9/16 x 1/4" thick

Inside- 5 1/16 x 4 5/16

Back:

Inside- 6 15/16 square x 5/16 thick

Please be sure to let us know how your bellows turn out–I'm impressed by people who make their own. I just start thinking about it and my head hurts....

[Jim C.]

Thanks Richard, and Ken !

The measurements help a lot, I guess the wood stock thickness is the same as for the 8X10 2D, which makes sense for manufacturing.

Richard, The rear measurement is spot on, with the measurement you gave it would make the rear
bellows frame 1/2" wide. But one thing I'm confused at is the front measurements, the outer
measurements you give for the front bellows frame are a wee bit wider than the back of my front riser board,
not having seen one in person is the 5X7 2D front of the bellows that much larger ?

I drew up the front frame and cut out a paper template just to see and it would seem that the pinion gear
for the front rise would rub against the bellows see attached pictures ( pardon the quality it was taken with my phone ).

My board is 6 7/8" wide X 6 1/8" tall, measured full width and height taken off the front standard
and the back of the riser board that the front bellows would attach to is 6" wide X 6 1/8" tall
and the opening for the lens board measured from the inside is 4 3/16" square, does that jive with
you and Ken's 5x7 2D ?

[Ken Lee]

Mine is in working condition. I'm not sure how many measurements I can give you of the internals.

Richard Ritter (http://www.lg4mat.net/) restored the camera for me, putting a new bellows on, and fixing a few other issues. He may be able to tell you whatever you need.

[Richard Wasserman]

Jim,

The back of the riser board on my camera measures the same as yours outside, but the mounting surface is 6 9/16 x 6. I measured it just now in my camera which is fully assembled except for the bellows. Might there be variation between cameras? The front frame is 5/8" wide. The lens board opening on mine is 4 1/4" square. I hope this helps




Thanks Richard, and Ken !

The measurements help a lot, I guess the wood stock thickness is the same as for the 8X10 2D, which makes sense for manufacturing.

Richard, The rear measurement is spot on, with the measurement you gave it would make the rear
bellows frame 1/2" wide. But one thing I'm confused at is the front measurements, the outer
measurements you give for the front bellows frame are a wee bit wider than the back of my front riser board,
not having seen one in person is the 5X7 2D front of the bellows that much larger ?

I drew up the front frame and cut out a paper template just to see and it would seem that the pinion gear
for the front rise would rub against the bellows see attached pictures ( pardon the quality it was taken with my phone ).

My board is 6 7/8" wide X 6 1/8" tall, measured full width and height taken off the front standard
and the back of the riser board that the front bellows would attach to is 6" wide X 6 1/8" tall
and the opening for the lens board measured from the inside is 4 3/16" square, does that jive with
you and Ken's 5x7 2D ?

[Richard Wasserman]

Jim,

I just took another look at your photos and our cameras are a bit different. The rack and pinion on mine are not exposed to the bellows, but are on the outside of the front standard. I think you should size the front of your bellows accordingly. I would think that the exact dimensions are not critical as long as the front is large enough to clear the opening and not rub anywhere, you will be fine. Good luck!

[Jim C.]

I believe there are variations, which could explain the measurement differences.

Making an educated guess based on the 2D's that I have and what I've seen on the ebay,
and the web the earlier models of the 2D have a slotted gear plate on both sides of the front
standard that drives the riser board, the knob/gear travels with the board when adjusting the front rise
( still trying to figure out how to remove it ) and later models had a static knob/gear that drives the
front board with a gear rack on the riser board.
In the slotted gear plate versions the pinion gear is inside the front standard, the later versions with the
static pinion the gear is exposed and the rack is on the riser board so that may account for the
differences in measurement.

Do yours and Ken's have the slotted gear plate ?

Thanks again for all the help.


Jim,

I just took another look at your photos and our cameras are a bit different. The rack and pinion on mine are not exposed to the bellows, but are on the outside of the front standard. I think you should size the front of your bellows accordingly. I would think that the exact dimensions are not critical as long as the front is large enough to clear the opening and not rub anywhere, you will be fine. Good luck!

Aha ! I guessed right ! :D

[Glenn Thoreson]

There are indeed two, maybe more, variations of all the 2D cameras. After I get done feeding my face, I'll measure mine. The frames usually leave a distinct shadow imprint on the back of the standard. I'll bet you refinished it without measuring that shadow imprint, huh? :D

[Jim C.]

There are indeed two, maybe more, variations of all the 2D cameras. After I get done feeding my face, I'll measure mine. The frames usually leave a distinct shadow imprint on the back of the standard. I'll bet you refinished it without measuring that shadow imprint, huh? :D

Nope, :) I looked long and hard for an imprint and there was nothing, other than the
screw holes and another set of holes that I believe are for a spring loaded
bellows support ? One of my 8x10 2D's has it.
This was a parts camera I purchased, and there seemed to be evidence that prior
attempts were made at refurbing/ restoring, at this point I have my doubts that
front standard is even OEM since it's oak rather than mahogany.

[Richard Wasserman]

Jim,

If it helps any the front bellows frame on my camera is 5/8" wide and the screw holes are centered. If you measure out 5/16" from your existing screw holes, does that work?

[Jim C.]

Richard, your original measurements were more than enough to get me started
in the right direction, I'm probably going to futz with the drawings I have of
the front bellows frame on the computer till I get a decent middle ground.
I'm not looking to do a exact restoration, just want to get it done so I can shoot.

I'll save the exact restoration for the 8X10 2D :D

[Richard Wasserman]

My hat's off to you!




Richard, your original measurements were more than enough to get me started
in the right direction, I'm probably going to futz with the drawings I have of
the front bellows frame on the computer till I get a decent middle ground.
I'm not looking to do a exact restoration, just want to get it done so I can shoot.

I'll save the exact restoration for the 8X10 2D :D

[Jim C.]

Keep your hat on for now, you can take it off when I finish and post the results ;)

There's the bellows, expecting some samples of cloth and leather soon,
and I still need to machine a front riser knob/gear,
and try to figure out why the lacquer I'm using is not adhering to the wood.:mad: