Proportions for matting and mounting

[Joanna Carter]

Hi folks

I need to argue through what sizes to use for framing my first "big" prints.

The image is printed on 29" x 24" paper, with a margin of 1*3/16" (3cm) top and sides, 1*3/8" (3.5cm) on the bottom.

The matt will overlap the edge of the paper by 3/8" (1cm).

I am planning on setting the width of the matt surround at 3*1/2" (9cm) top and sides, 4" (10cm) on the bottom.

This gives me a finished mounted size of around 36" (90cm) x 30" (76cm).

I would like to ask people's opinion on these proportions of picture, margin and matt.

Should I use glass or plastic glazing?

Also, what size of framing section to use to support the all-up weight?

Thanks.

[bob carnie]

Joanna

At this size we would use 4's and 5's rather than 3's and 4's even go a slight bit larger
We would also us a more robust frame with bracing in the back
and when budget allows always go to Museum Glass.

regards
Bob

Hi folks

I need to argue through what sizes to use for framing my first "big" prints.

The image is printed on 29" x 24" paper, with a margin of 1*3/16" (3cm) top and sides, 1*3/8" (3.5cm) on the bottom.

The matt will overlap the edge of the paper by 3/8" (1cm).

I am planning on setting the width of the matt surround at 3*1/2" (9cm) top and sides, 4" (10cm) on the bottom.

This gives me a finished mounted size of around 36" (90cm) x 30" (76cm).

I would like to ask people's opinion on these proportions of picture, margin and matt.

Should I use glass or plastic glazing?

Also, what size of framing section to use to support the all-up weight?

Thanks.

[Joanna Carter]

At this size we would use 4's and 5's rather than 3's and 4's even go a slight bit larger
Can I just clarify? Are you talking 4" and 5" or more for the matt width?

How about simply positioning the (approx) 30"x24" image in a 40"x32" frame?


We would also us a more robust frame with bracing in the back
The image is a classic B&W; any preference for a "robust" wooden frame or possibly an anodised or powder-coated aluminium frame; if the wooden frame, what width?


and when budget allows always go to Museum Glass
And if the budget doesn't allow? Anti--reflective or not? the image is printed on Ilford pearl paper.

Thanks for your time; I know what I am doing with smaller sizes :eek:

[bob carnie]

We always optically center prints of this size we would start with 4" and 5" matts.
Our measurments start from the image size and always try to keep this kind of balance with all our framing.

3/4" face or more would be considered robust , we sell 90-95% wood over metal.

Anti reflective * AR* is between museum and regular glass price and we do recommend it. Not to be confused with non glare glass which we do not use. *dead looking prints*.

[percepts]

I suggest you knock up a scale drawing in photoshop which is simple to do. That way you can see the "balance" of mat border to image size. I think there is a fine line between too narrow and too wide and it is dictated by the image size. Also the frame plays it part. Narrow/thin aluminium mouldings requires a wider mat border than two or 3 inch wood moulding does so you should include chosen moulding width in your PS mockup.

Essentially I would agree with Bob Carnie as 4 or 5 inch sounds about right to me but it does depend on the frame moulding as well.

I would suggest you get a quote from a professional framer. You should be able to get a nice wood frame done for around £70 but it depends on the moulding you choose. They will have plenty samples you can see it against. Doing it on the cheap really shows and doesn't set your print off very well.

Having said that, I really like the thin black aluminium mouldings for B+W prints which are easy to assemble yourself. But Lion or Arqadia who sell them will require a minimum order value which should be enough for 3 or 4 frames. But aluminium can bow under weight as its soft (glass is heavy), so you would need to put a wire brace top to bottom which is simple with some frame hanging wire (not cord which stretches).

The only time I might consider plexi was if I was shipping it via courier but if properly packed, glass won't break unless badly mistreated.

[jim kitchen]

Dear Joanna,

I wish you success in this adventure... :)

I struggled with this issue many moons ago, where I decided upon one framing technique to keep my costs to a minimum, and to provide my framed images with a consistent look, no matter what size the finished image might be. That said, I happen to dry mount my images, and I do not cover any edge of the finished print, where I provide a one-half inch border along the top and along each side of the image, and I provide a one-inch border along the bottom for my signature, title and, or numbering system if required. These dimensions are true for my portrait and landscape mounted images. Again, this just happens to be my long time approach to this issue, and I am certain that many folks may challenge this format standardization, since they have their own presentation style.

I attached a PDF file for your review which shows how I balance my framed images...

My composite frame size is approximately three, and one-half inches from outside edge to outside edge no matter what size the image happens to be, and I happen to use Museum Glass as a matter of choice. I do not modify the frame's out side edge to outside edge dimension to accommodate a different sized image. The larger finished framed image, such as my 24X30 framed image, weighs approximately fifty pounds (22.7 kg).

jim k

[Joanna Carter]

Well, thank you all for your ideas. I have settled on a 11cm matt top and sides, 12cm on the bottom; with a 2cm margin around the image top and bottom, 2.5cm on the bottom.

Jim, thanks for the .pdf file, it was very helpful; eventually, I took the original image in Photoshop and extended the canvas to see what the various options looked like and, thus, made my final decision.

I get a feeling that I will go for an aluminium section that will look slim on the front but with a sturdier box section behind, with a strap from top to bottom to help support the weight.

What is the concensus on the thickness of glass/plexi to use on this size of frame? I use 2mm for anything around the 20"x16" region but would 3mm be preferable for this kind of size?

As for getting a framer to do the job, I have nine pictures to do, all of similar size, primarily for a monochrome camera club exhibition, with an uncertain chance of selling any; but I will be taking them on to another venue after three weeks where I should have a better opportunity to sell them. In the meanwhile, I need to keep my costs down and have enough experience in making frames that look good to be confident of having a high enough quality of finish.

Thanks again

[percepts]

I think that if you intend to exhibit often then you have to consider framing as an investment and build up your stock of frames. Once you have done that then subsequent exhibitions become much cheaper for you to do providing you restock frames as you sell images. The aluminium frames do make changing images simple. Just don't tape seal the back untill you make a sale.
I recommend Arqadia chop service for aluminium mouldings. Lion do the same but Arqadia have a particular thin face moulding I like.

[Joanna Carter]

I think that if you intend to exhibit often then you have to consider framing as an investment and build up your stock of frames. Once you have done that then subsequent exhibitions become much cheaper for you to do providing you restock frames as you sell images.
Indeed, I am working up to a "proper" exhibition and this is a useful starter :)


The aluminium frames do make changing images simple. Just don't tape seal the back untill you make a sale.
I recommend Arqadia chop service for aluminium mouldings. Lion do the same but Arqadia have a particular thin face moulding I like.
Useful info on the chop service, thank you.

[Roger Thoms]

Joanna, sounds like you are on the right track. I have matted and framed a lot of art work and often draw the matt to get the proportions right. I use DeltaCad which is a basic 2D cad program. I hadn't thought of extending the canvas in photoshop that's a great idea.

Good luck with your shows,
Roger

[Drew Wiley]

I personally believe prints look unbalanced when all the margins are equal. This is a
custom that seemingly began because framers didn't want to change the settings on
their cutters. The well-known teacher of the framing school in SF (Paul Fredrickson)
taught the "golden mean" ratio of top to bottom proportions, but this doesn't make
total sense because the ratio is upset by being partially concealed by the frame
rabbets. I simply use a 2:3 top:bottom ratio, with the sides typically intermediate in
width. Try it several ways if you wish, and solicit opinions from your viewers. I also
dislike ridiculously wide margins just to make the print look bigger than it really is.
Ironically, very wide margins often suit tiny prints better, to draw you in. My own
standardized dimension for something a little bigger than this is 32x39 inches, due
to the fact that most of my images are printed from 8x10 without much cropping,
and due to the fact that matboard is often damaged on an edge or corner, and you
don't want to risk standardizing on full sheets. Glass this big is really fragile, so acrylic is more commonly used, though it tends to bow outwards a bit. But by all
means experiment!