Ultra-light, DIY ULF Camera

[Michael Roberts]

To anyone interested:

I've been working on this project off and on for some months now, and finally got everything assembled. Here it is: a 7 and 1/2 pound 11x14 camera that you can build yourself for $250 or less.

The basic design is similar to the Kodak 2D, i.e., a base rail consisting of two rails. I decided to use a 36" long base rail with no joints or hinges for extra stability. Focusing is by friction-focusing; both front and rear standards lock down underneath the rails by tightening knobs that tighten (clamp) the wooden rail-guides. I decided to use single knobs for both front rise/fall and front tilt to achieve a little more stability.

Bellows found on ebay for around $50.

Materials: mostly 2"x1/2"x36" balsa wood ($4.99 ea) from the local hardware store. Measured with metal ruler and cut with a craft saw. (And, yes, that's a 3lb lens on the front--no problem!) Yes, balsa wood is very fragile if it's thin or stressed in the wrong direction, but is surprisingly strong when 2" thick.

Bass wood used on key stress points (pin placements, weight-bearing light-trap, lens board bracket support, etc.). Also, wooden washers made from craft plywood (cutouts from the hole saw from mounting smaller lenses) are used to spread the force when tightening the control knobs.

Aluminum brackets for back and lens board holder.

Lots of screws, mostly drywall screws I had on hand. Also, some 2 and 1/2" brass screws in the front and rear standard joints.

Mahogany stain and five coats of poly for a hard, protective outer surface.

Knobs from McMaster-Carr.

The base rail is 3/4 square aluminum bar, 36", from Home Depot. Cross pieces are 1"x2" pine; cutting these was the only time I used the mitre saw (just to get the ends square). Extra tripod sockets in front and rear for optional extra stablization with monopod or spare lightweight tripod.

Base rail weighs 2lbs; camera, 5 and 1/2lbs.

Max bellows extension, 30".

Front rise and fall, and front and rear tilt limited only by lens coverage (next version will have swing also).

The GG is plexi with self-adhesive window film.

I also used a 1/4" drill for pilot holes for all the screws to prevent splitting.

If you are interested in building a ULF and have questions, let me know; I'll be glad to share what I learned on this project.

Next up: a 12x20 extension back and 8x20 reducing back.
-Michael

[venchka]

Well done. I have enough 6mm, 9mm & 12mm marine plywood to build most of that camera. Did you make the back? How did you get the GG located correctly? Finding bellows and an affordable lens would probably be the first step. Holders won't be cheap either.

Interesting concept. I do have a suitable tripod!

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Michael, great job! Having recently completed my 11x14 Walnut camera which took 10 months I can appreciate your fine work. I would have never even considered Balsa for a camera. Very nice and simple design and isn't it nice when you find a cheap bellows for an 11x14. Mine cost twice as much as yours and I'm still thrilled at that. How does the camera do at extension with it tilted up or down at an angle? Looks very solid. I'll keep this in design in mind if I ever decide to build another one. With the 11x14 and 8x20 done I don't think I'll do another but you never know. Great job!!

Jim

[Turner Reich]

Are you making film holders to go in it? I think you could from what I see already. Great job!

[Alex Wei]

wow, what a nice camera! It looks amazing!

I too try to build a 11X14 stay at home camera. Your work is very inspiring.

[Michael Roberts]

Thanks everyone. Wayne, yes, I built the back. I got the T dimension from the S&S final comp site (http://ssfilmholders.com/?page=critical_dimensions), 0.35". Since I have zero woodworking skills, I used the closest available craft wood dimension--three 1/8" thick pieces glued or screwed together. Comes out to 3/8" or 0.375". So, I'm off by about 6/10s of a millimeter. Close enough for landscape work, I think.

TR, I've thought about trying to build holders, got some ideas about how to do it...but for the time being I bit the bullet and bought a couple of S&S holders so I could get out and shoot sooner rather than later.

Alex, thanks. One of the reasons I posted was to let anyone who is interested know that if I can do this, you can too. You don't need woodworking skills or expensive tools.

[jb7]

That looks great, well done-
and the weight is incredible-

It's bulky, but considering how light it is, surely there is some way to get it out from time to time?

joseph

[Jim Michael]

Nice looking camera. Something like a polyester resin might be useful to add strength to your balsa components.

[Blair Ware]

what an inspiration... looks like I have my summer(s) cut out for me. :)

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Thanks everyone. Wayne, yes, I built the back. I got the T dimension from the S&S final comp site (http://ssfilmholders.com/?page=critical_dimensions), 0.35". Since I have zero woodworking skills, I used the closest available craft wood dimension--three 1/8" thick pieces glued or screwed together. Comes out to 3/8" or 0.375". So, I'm off by about 6/10s of a millimeter. Close enough for landscape work, I think.

TR, I've thought about trying to build holders, got some ideas about how to do it...but for the time being I bit the bullet and bought a couple of S&S holders so I could get out and shoot sooner rather than later.

Alex, thanks. One of the reasons I posted was to let anyone who is interested know that if I can do this, you can too. You don't need woodworking skills or expensive tools.

Michael, let me know how much you like those big negatives when you see them? I have some woodworking skills but no shop so I built mine with hand tools in my apartment. I read on one of the forums a post that said you could not build a camera without all this equipment. Guess you can!! Let us see some photographs when you can.

Thanks.



Jim

[Michael Roberts]

Jim, I've seen photos of your walnut camera. It looks awesome. I would love to make a folding camera, but I don't think I have the skills to do it. Nevertheless, experiences like yours certainly inspired me to try my own build. Thanks for the encouragement; I'll post images as soon as I think I have something worthwhile.

For those who have expressed interest, I'll add some pics and specs of the anchors and knobs I purchased from McMaster later today.
-Michael

[Michael Roberts]

McMaster-Carr parts list:
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=90363A034
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=60965K31
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=90244A325
http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=5993K67

[Michael Roberts]

Nice looking camera. Something like a polyester resin might be useful to add strength to your balsa components.

Jim,
thanks for the tip; I'll check it out.
-Michael

[bspeed]

Well done indeed. Should be so very enjoyable when those negatives are developed.

[Michael Roberts]

Getting back to work on projects that have been waiting for a while.... Working on the 12x20 expansion back; it's pretty much done except for the gg and gg frame....

In practice, the 11x14 has proven to be workable in the field. It has even survived a crash when I inadvertently bumped a tripod leg out from under.

After working with the camera a few times, I made a second, shorter base rail of 25 inches that is easier to work with when using shorter lenses than the 36-inch rail shown here.

[Michael Roberts]

couple more...

The expansion back bellows are home-made. I thought a rectangle-style would be easier than tapered for a first go.

[Michael Roberts]

The 11x14 on location in September....

[Michael Roberts]

Joseph mentioned getting the camera out and about. Here's my method. The bag also holds two TR triples: the 15-24-36 in barrel, and the 12-21-28 in Betax.

[jb7]

That almost looks like you could take it on Ryanair, cabin baggage...

[Michael Roberts]

Hmmmm...have to check the size limits...I did carry-on the 8x10 this summer....

[Drew Bedo]

What a great job! Keep building and sharing the results.

[Michael Roberts]

11x14 camera made mostly with 1/2 inch balsa wood. Weight of camera: 5lbs; rail: 2.5lbs.

This is an older thread, and most of the pics have been lost in LF Photo server migrations, but with new interest in DIY work, I thought I would add back the pictures from my hard drive for any newcomers (since 2010).

I originally guestimated the cost at under $250. The bellows cost is the big issue. If, like me, you can find a used bellows then the rest of the materials will cost no more than about $50.

[Michael Roberts]

Backpack...and parts from McMaster-Carr:

[Michael Roberts]

Here are some photos of the 12x20 expansion:

[Michael Roberts]

and on location:

[Michael Roberts]

The only power tools I used for this build were a mitre saw to make sure the wooden cross pieces for the rail were cut with completely flat ends to square up against the aluminum rails, and a 1/2" drill for pilot holes. All of the balsa and basswood were hand-cut with a small craft wood saw.

The moral here is anyone can do this. If you've ever thought about building yourself a camera, I assure you, you can do it. No special tools or knowledge is required. This forum has all the info you need.

[Tin Can]

Nice, and I missed this as I joined in 2011.

Thanks for posting.

Again!

[Oren Grad]

Michael, this is great - thanks for updating!

[Tin Can]

11x14 camera made mostly with 1/2 inch balsa wood. Weight of camera: 5lbs; rail: 2.5lbs.

This is an older thread, and most of the pics have been lost in LF Photo server migrations, but with new interest in DIY work, I thought I would add back the pictures from my hard drive for any newcomers (since 2010).

I originally guestimated the cost at under $250. The bellows cost is the big issue. If, like me, you can find a used bellows then the rest of the materials will cost no more than about $50.

It appears your front rise/fall is maxed out at zero height. Is this a good choice? Serious question.

[StoneNYC]

Wow, looks much better than my 14x17 box camera for sure. But balsam? Isn't that really in danger of snapping? I've only used balsam with those airplanes you buy as a kid. But it was pretty easy to damage..

[Michael Roberts]

It appears your front rise/fall is maxed out at zero height. Is this a good choice? Serious question.

You're right, it was close to max in that photo, but not quite. In practice, I could elevate the front end of the rail, adjust front and rear tilt to keep both lens and film parallel, and accomplish as much front rise as needed or as much as the lens coverage would permit.

[Michael Roberts]

Wow, looks much better than my 14x17 box camera for sure. But balsam? Isn't that really in danger of snapping? I've only used balsam with those airplanes you buy as a kid. But it was pretty easy to damage..

The balsa I use is 1/2" thick and 2" wide. I designed the camera so the stress was on the 2" dimension, or at least no direct stress on the 1/2" dimension. Two inch thick balsa is tough to break. Balsa wood is used to make surfboards (with an outer skin of epoxy or other hard material).

In later usage, I have been covering the balsa with 1/32 or 1/16" hardwood (basswood, mahogany, cherry or walnut). This doesn't add much weight and prevents dings in the softer balsa. It also holds screws much better.

[StoneNYC]

So neat!!! Thanks for sharing.

[Tin Can]

Yes tilts. Thanks for your Now Obvious Solution!



You're right, it was close to max in that photo, but not quite. In practice, I could elevate the front end of the rail, adjust front and rear tilt to keep both lens and film parallel, and accomplish as much front rise as needed or as much as the lens coverage would permit.

[blindpig]

Thanks for re-posting your pictures,what a great idea(Balsa wood).You've done a fantastic job with the build.Looking forward to seeing pictures from the new camera.
Don

[Fr. Mark]

Yes, thanks for posting this. I could imagine a fiberglass epoxy coating might be good too as long as one didn't go crazy with how much you put on. I've thought about using it over corrugated cardboard or plastic, too. I also like the rail idea. I tried something kind of similar following the Hoover idea on the main page links that used U channels but they aren't rigid enough for 8x10 the way I wanted to build it. Thanks also for packing pictures.