Seeking archival adhesive for lame(lah-may) fabric to gatorboard

[arjenvde]

Hi

My name is Arjen, I print through a 54" flatbed printer onto metal and metallic fabric. Who can help me to find an archival method to glue fabric or paper to gatorboard? I prefer a rapid cure roll on clear glue instead of a sprayable version.
Sizes are typically about 4 by 4 feet and I prefer waterbased products so I won't blow up my liver etc. To see my work go to http://www.aryenhart.com

Thank you in advance for your time and effort.

Cordially, Arjen from a now cold Tucson, AZ

[BarryS]

You could try using Liquitex Gloss Acrylic media. It's archival and non-yellowing and works beautifully as an adhesive. It's also water-based and non-toxic. Acrylic media is essentially acrylic paint without the pigment, so it dries perfectly clear. Another option is using self-adhesive backed gatorboard, although I'm not sure that the adhesive would be adequate for archival purposes.

[arjenvde]

thanks Barry, great tip, will try it this weekend!

[caleb]

have you thought about using good old PVA jade glue? I have used it for larger pieces like you are dealing with, you can find it at places like light impressions and other sources for book binding stuff

[john collins]

For expert advice and a source for purchasing the correct adhesive contact the folks at Talasonlinedotcom. they will know what the best solution is.

[jhogan]

In the past I've used a product called Rollataq Adhesive to adhere inkjet prints to plexi and masonite. It is produced by a company called Daige. Buy it online in quart bottles for about $20.

Daige manufactures a number of different application devices, but I've found a 6" foam "weenie roller" works best (you can find them in the paint section at the hardware store). Best results are obtained when you use a thin, even coat.

It's very simple and clean, compared to spray mount. It dries clear and it's water based, so you can successfully dab small amounts off the print surface with a damp sponge. The best thing about the stuff is that you can adjust the print on the mount for a few minutes before it starts to dry. Once it dries, though (~15-30 min), it is forever.

[arjenvde]

Thanks again for the leads, I will contact the diff. glue companies. Tried PV glue, dries way too fast and doubt it would be archival.

[domenico Foschi]

Arjen,
sometime ago talking with a framer about archival issues he told me that there is no such thing as an archival glue.
You might get to acid free, but that's as far as you go.

[Mark Sawyer]

If you're concerned with archival properties, you might want to consider some material other than gatorboard, which is non-archival and off-gases.

[arjenvde]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for letting me know about GB not being archival. I see that you are in TCN, so am I. Are you in the printing business? I am looking for a consultant, call me if you are interested. 360 7088

[Gregg Cook]

second what Mark says.

and the try PVA. Or wheat paste. And maybe rag matte board instead. OR two layer of such.

Maybe with an overmat for support.


I've had training.

[Mark Sawyer]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for letting me know about GB not being archival. I see that you are in TCN, so am I. Are you in the printing business? I am looking for a consultant, call me if you are interested. 360 7088

Nope, not in the printing business, just a lowly high school teacher. I used to do photo conservation for the National Park Service and the Arizona Historical Society quite a few years back though. If you have some questions, I might be able to help...

[arjenvde]

hmmm, if you have lighting skills, I got two nikon speedlights sb 800/600 and an nikon d40x dslr, getting decent results (polarizing filter) but due to the reflective surface still challenging, so if you have studio lighting experience, I can trade your time for prints...

[Rob Champagne]

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/sundries/sundries16.html

http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/s002.html