Film Scanner Help

[seabee1999]

I know that this is an LF forum but I was hoping that someone here with better technical knowledge than me can help. I have had my Nikon Coolscan V for about 3 years now. Although not used that often lately, I have used it to scan shots in the past with great results. 2 nights ago, I developed my b&w and wanted to scan them in last night. I applied a normal technique of using the Digital ICE on fine. The resulting scan either darkened my shadows too much or blacken the whole image. I was wondering if something like this has happened to anyone else or is my scanner going bad? My OS is Vista but my old computer had XP. Could this be the issue. When I switched computers, I thought I downloaded all the appropriate service packs to accomidate the Vista software from Nikon. Thanks for all your help in advance.

God Bless,
David

[Cesar Barreto]

Hi, David.

You can't use Ice with b&w negatives, because it detects silver as dust or alike and try to "fix" it.

Good luck.

[seabee1999]

Hi, David.

You can't use Ice with b&w negatives, because it detects silver as dust or alike and try to "fix" it.

Good luck.

Cool, thank you for that info. I did not know that. How do I correct for dust and stuff in the scan?

God Bless,
David

[JPlomley]

David,

Wecome to clone stamping and the heal brush. They will become your new best Photoshop friends for touching up B&W neg scans.

I might also suggest that you scan your negs as positives and invert in PS. Then set BP and WP and tweak global and local contrast. You will have much better control over tonal range than if you scan as a neg in NikonScan (which most assuredly will clip the highlights). As well, do not scan at full resolution or grain will become an issue. In my expereince with the Nikon 5000 scanner, you are much better off scanning ~2000 spi and up-rezzing to the final image size with Genuine Fractals. You are always better off starting with a clean file for up-rezzing.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Marko]

One word: Photoshop.

There are several tools dedicated just for such a purpose, all very effective. Spot Healing Brush, Healing Brush, Patch Tool and Clone Stamp. I prefer the first two coupled with a carefully selected brush size.

[David Luttmann]

One word: Photoshop.

There are several tools dedicated just for such a purpose, all very effective. Spot Healing Brush, Healing Brush, Patch Tool and Clone Stamp. I prefer the first two coupled with a carefully selected brush size.

I'll second the vote for the healing brush. The Coolscan V isn't the best for B&W as the light source is more like a point source enlarger and increases the appearance of grain.

You'll need to watch you sharpening technique to avoid pumping up the contrast of grain edges.

[seabee1999]

Thanks to all for your help. I do have PS-CS3 in the computer. I guess I will have to start learning how to use the other tools that I have been afraid to use. I have found the that clone stamp is an awesome friend.

God Bless,
David

[CTSELLAS]

I like the healing brush tool but you need to be careful with it. You cant do edges with it but practice using it a little and you should be good. Clone stamp tool works great too.

[otiica]

Hi, David.

You can't use Ice with b&w negatives, because it detects silver as dust or alike and try to "fix" it.

Good luck.

I like fixing the silver in my negatives.

[Frank Bagbey]

Since someone else did, I will too: By now I could have printed them all in the darkroom!

[Peter K]

I like fixing the silver in my negatives.
Removing all the silver by fixing works only with unexposed film :D

[Ken Lee]

Digital ICE works by viewing the film under InfraRed light, under which the color dyes are basically transparent. Under InfraRed, the only thing that shows up is dust. The software "removes" the dust spots by replacing those areas with adjacent pixel values, taken when scanning in the visible range of the spectrum.

Since B&W film is not transparent under IR light, this technique is impossible...

... which is OK with me, since I love to develop my B&W film by inspection, using an IR viewing device. If B&W film were transparent under IR light, development by inspection, in this easy way, would be... impossible.

[Kirk Gittings]

interesting point Ken.

[Bob McCarthy]

... which is OK with me, since I love to develop my B&W film by inspection, using an IR viewing device. If B&W film were transparent under IR light, development by inspection, in this easy way, would be... impossible.

Would you provide more information on your technique. Certain recommended equipment? Any pitfalls?

Superior results to time temp approach?

Bob

[Steven Barall]

Dust and scratches add character.

[Ken Lee]

Bob -

DBI or development by inspection doesn't replace the time/temperature technique - it just augments it - when your calculations are wrong, when you decide to make a change, or when something unexpected happens. It's nice to be able to leave something in the developer a while longer if needed - or pull it out sooner than planned. The unfortunate alternative, is to find out when it's too late.

Traditional DBI involves a very brief inspection under the light of a colored lamp of very low wattage. This method lets you mix chemicals, check temperature, pick up dropped items, even read a newspaper... in total darkness.

For some info about using an Infra Red Monocular, see here (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/tech.html#Monocular)

There has been discussion of the subject on this forum, and also on the Azo forum (http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/AzoForum/default.asp?BulletinCate=2).

[seabee1999]

I would have never tought of using NVG's in a darkroom. That is one I need to put in my back pocket for a later date.

God Bless,
David

[Nathan Potter]

Ken, great thanks for the infrared viewing idea. I just never thought about that possibility. Must investigate it a bit more.

Nate Potter

[Ken Lee]

You're welcome, but it wasn't my idea. I first heard about it here.