Adjusting Backpack Harness?

[Josh Z.]

I have a Lowepro Pro Trekker AW II and was hoping that there might be a better guide to adjusting the harness for proper fit than what accompanies the bag?

Thanks.

[Terence McDonagh]

Not exactly sure what the Lowepro harness looks like, but the typical big pack procedure is to get it on your shoulders, get the belt fastened and tighten the belt and lift the load until all the weight is on the belt. Clip the horizontal sternum strap, then adjust the shoulder straps (the vertical straps on your chest), until you start to feel a little load on them. Then adjust the load lifters behind your shoulders until the load pulls into you back.

See: http://www.rei.com/learn/Camping/rei/learn/camp/ftbkpk2f?vcat=REI_EXPERT_ADVICE_CAMPING

[Josh Z.]

Oh, excellent. The Lowepro guide for the Trekker series is at:

http://www.lowepro.com/assets/downloads/trekkeraw.pdf [PDF]

I found it a bit confusing, and while the video didn't match exactly, it certainly helped quite a bit. I think I've been wearing this thing wrong for more than a year (too much weight on the shoulders). I've been attributing my shoulder pain to an old shoulder injury, but I think it was rather just aggravated by excess weight.

Now, as soon as it stops snowing again I can give it a proper test, looks promising so far though.

Thanks.

[timparkin]

Oh, excellent. The Lowepro guide for the Trekker series is at:

http://www.lowepro.com/assets/downloads/trekkeraw.pdf [PDF]

I found it a bit confusing, and while the video didn't match exactly, it certainly helped quite a bit. I think I've been wearing this thing wrong for more than a year (too much weight on the shoulders). I've been attributing my shoulder pain to an old shoulder injury, but I think it was rather just aggravated by excess weight.

Now, as soon as it stops snowing again I can give it a proper test, looks promising so far though.

Thanks.

Just to give an example, I have a serious back injury and yet use the pro trekker II. The way I have it adjusted is such that the shoulder straps are only used to prevent the top of the rucksack falling backwards. If you are leaning forward very slightly, there should be no weight at all on the shoulder straps. All the weight of the rucksack is carried on the belt. To get the belt tight enough without causing pain, you need to make sure that you have no hard seams or objects under the belt (If you do you'll end up with a bruise or sore over a long walk).

As far as setting up the velcro system for the length of the back, I'd get a freind to help. insert the 'velcro breaker' and then get a friend to help lift the shoulder straps until the straps natural curve drape over your shoulders.

Hope this helps..

Tim

[Terence McDonagh]

Typically for a heavy pack you should have the vast majority of the weight on your hips, and only use the shoulder straps to stabilize it. The exception is when going up or down steeper trails, etc when you need to shed some weight to the shoulders to avoid straining your leg muscles too much.

[timparkin]

Typically for a heavy pack you should have the vast majority of the weight on your hips, and only use the shoulder straps to stabilize it. The exception is when going up or down steeper trails, etc when you need to shed some weight to the shoulders to avoid straining your leg muscles too much.

Won't your leg muscles carry the same weight regardless of how much the shoulders bear? I can't think of a reason why you would want to move the weight onto your shoulders unless it's to relieve pressure on the flesh around your hips (i.e. if you've got pokey hip bones like me).

Tim

[Photobackpacker]

Premium packs allow you to shift the weight from the shelf of your hips to your shoulders and back again while on the go. This is to give the user a chance to rest the weigh-bearing region when fatigue sets in. This feature in found in only the best of the backpacks on the market. For it to work well, the suspension system must be extremely efficient in transferring the weight to the belt and the belt must be sufficiently stiff to distribute that load to the lumbar curve and outward to the crest of the hip bones on either side.

While you are correct, the weight is still carried by the legs, no matter where the load is borne. However, shifting the weight to the hip structure gives you a more direct connection to the skelaton frame and helps to shift the perceived center of gravity to a lower point.

The shoulders are not the best choice for load bearing activity. Shoulder straps tend to cut the flow of blood and pinch the upper trapezius muscle. This causes discomfort and hastens fatigue.

[Terence McDonagh]

Photobackpacker obviously has a better description than me.

To put it simply, for me shifting the weight to the shoulders temporarily allows my legs more flexibility/freedom-of-movement when stepping up onto a rock, etc.

[timparkin]

Photobackpacker obviously has a better description than me.

To put it simply, for me shifting the weight to the shoulders temporarily allows my legs more flexibility/freedom-of-movement when stepping up onto a rock, etc.

Ah! Yes, I can see that! That's probably why sometimes I put my thumbs under the shoulder straps and push forward. It does help with general comfort..

Tim

[paulr]

When a pack is fitted right, the stabilizer straps the (the ones that come off the top of the shoulder straps and connect to the pack frame) should angle up at around 45 degrees. That allows the harness and frame (internal or external, hard or soft) to do its job and get the weight onto your hips.

Bruce is right about wanting most of the load on your hips, but if you're carrying weight for long, you'll probably find yourself adjusting the shoulder straps and the stablilizer straps from time to time. Hips can get sore and need a break, so you'll want to throw some weight onto your shoulders. Until they get sore and want to throw the weight back onto your hips. Repeat!

[Eric James]

The Super Trekker, and I imagine the Pro Trekker, have two integral and parallel aluminum stays. These come from the factory bent to conform to the population; that is, there is a lumbar-region curve and a sacral-region curve which combine to give the spine's usual S-shape when viewed in right profile. Custom bending these stays is the place to start. Unfortunately, the stays on my Super Trekker cannot be removed; they can still be gently bent to better conform to your spine.

[Alan Davenport]

I have a Super Trekker. After some trial and error, I've gotten it adjusted so I can carry it, but I don't think I've ever come across a worse suspension system in a backpack. If I had it to buy again, I'd put the money into an external frame Kelty pack and extra padding for the gear.

[Rakesh Malik]

That's pretty much what I'm doing, except that I'm going with a McHale. It helps that I live 15 minutes from his shop, of course :)

I gave up on the photography packs a long time ago, when I realized I would never be able to carry enough non-photographic gear in them to go with the photography stuff. Plus, they're pretty heavy empty, so you end up carrying a lot of extra weight in addition to your gear, and pouches like the Gnass ones have padding but not much weight.

It's been nice for 6-8 mile snowshoe trips, and I have a feeling that it will prove worth the investment when I start doing overnights, and the 4-6 day Enchantments trip I'm hoping to do soon. :)

[Josh Z.]

When a pack is fitted right, the stabilizer straps the (the ones that come off the top of the shoulder straps and connect to the pack frame) should angle up at around 45 degrees. That allows the harness and frame (internal or external, hard or soft) to do its job and get the weight onto your hips.

I'm not quite sure that the Trekker series allows for that... At least not on my Pro Trekker. I've tried everything I can think of and the top stabilizer straps always are angling down to the pack or are pretty much horizontal.

[Rakesh Malik]

I'm not quite sure that the Trekker series allows for that... At least not on my Pro Trekker. I've tried everything I can think of and the top stabilizer straps always are angling down to the pack or are pretty much horizontal.

That probably means that either the stays are too short, the harness is much too small for you, or that the harness is just badly designed.

If you plan to carry a lot of weight, I'd highly recommend heading over to a good outdoor gear shop and getting yourself fitted for a pack. It makes the carrying part a lot nicer.