Favorite Focusing Loupe?

[ljsegil]

I am wondering what people look for in a focusing loupe, what features help their picture taking or just make their lives easier. How much magnification seems optimal, is the ability to focus the loupe important, does the loupe need something to protect the ground glass, what or which have greater eye relief (eyeglass wearer). I'm just curious to hear about most anything that users find to be important in their louping experience, and what brands/types they find most satisfying.
Thanks,
LJS

[Brian Ellis]

I use a 4x loupe with a square base made by Peak. I like a square loop because it's easier to see along the edges and in the corners of the viewing screen (if the corners aren't cut out). I also have a Peak 8x loupe but that seemed to magnify the Fresnel lines on viewing screens too much and interfered with focusing. I also have a round Toyo loupe that I've never used because I didn't like the fact that it was round.

You'll get all kinds of thoughts and suggestions, it's just a matter of what works best for each person. But don't caught up in the idea that you need one of those $100+ loupes. Most loupes are made for viewing slides on a light table where optics relating to things such as color accuracy are important. When you're using a loupe to focus a LF camera you're only using it as a magnifying glass so there's no need to pay for fancy optics that you don't need.

[Rick Moore]

Brian, I have to disagree with your assertion. I have tried many different loupes, from the Agfa cheapo through linen testers to the Rodenstock 4x aspheric I now use. The Rodenstock loupe has a much larger exit pupil and greater eye relief than any of the cheaper loupes I have tried. It is much easier to use, especially for those of us with less than perfect vision. The Rodenstock loupe requires much less moving of the eye back and forth to find the sweet spot. The Schneider aspheric I tried also shared this characteristic.

The one feature I miss with the Rodenstock is a square skirt for viewing the corners of the ground glass.

[Darren Kruger]

I am wondering what people look for in a focusing loupe, what features help their picture taking or just make their lives easier.

I use the Toyo loupe. It's designed for use on a LF cameras with only 3.6x magnification. It's solid all the way to the base and has rubber on the base to protect the ground glass. It also happens to be the about the same height as their focusing hood so I can use both at the same time.

-Darren

[Scott Kathe]

How good is the Toyo with respect to looking at the edges?

Scott

[Jim Rhoades]

Funny, I have a Leica that cost as much as a first born child. A Toyo that I like because it's long and has the rubber base. The one I use the most is a plastic Agfa that I spray painted the skirt black. It's cheap, handy, light and it's not rocket science.

[Brian K]

I use/own many loupes. Here are my thoughts on the ones I have:

Toyo loupe- excellent general loupe, good optic, bright, no distortion could use a little more magnification, I use this loupe most of the time, but will sometime check more critical focus with:

Horseman 7x loupe- very good loupe, very long gives good distance from focus screen, has a little of the tunnel vision affect, sometimes too much magnification because it makes GG texture too strong.

Rodenstock 4x aspherical- great optic, a little short and a little too fat. Great if you're working with an 8x10 camera or larger, the fatness is a little problematic with 4x5 and 6xXcm backs.

Schneider 4x- the classic loupe, used by a whole generation of LF photographers, getting a little long in the tooth optically compared to the Rodenstock, but still an excellent optic, a little fat, but not nearly as fat as the Rodie, also a little short

Schneider 8x- when I test lenses I use this to really criticize the focus, however it is way too short to use comfortably and will make the GG texture really obvious

Mamiya 4x-12x zoom- Way too fat to use as a focus loupe, an ok optic compared to the others but I guess that's expected given that it's a zoom, better off used as a loupe on film.

Nikon 6x High Magnification finder conversion- I had SKGrimes convert 2 Nikon High Mag finders. The optic is superb, the length is excellent, however it is a little fat and has a narrow view.

None of these loupes are particularly good at viewing the corners, especially when used with a wide angle lens. The problem being the extraneous light caused by the loupe not contacting the GG fully will cause reflections and the lack of DOF that the loupes have require full flush contact.

[David A. Goldfarb]

I like the current version Schneider 4x best (the older Schneider 4x shows noticable pincushion distortion).

When I'm using a folding focusing hood, I usually use the Toyo 3.6x, because it has a long barrel. There's an older version of this loupe made by Omega, which is the identical.

I have a Silvestri tilting loupe, which is nice as well. 6x, so I usually use it with cameras that don't have a fresnel, but you can get into the corners with it and the tilting function is handy for wide lenses.

Occasionally I'll use a Schneider 6x with my Sinar 8x10", which has a particularly fine textured groundglass.

If you have a focusing chimney finder with a square base for a medium format camera, these also make good groundglass loupes often, and they get into the corners. I used the chimney finder for my Bronica S2a (with Nikkor glass) before I bought the Schneider 4x.

[Brian Vuillemenot]

I use the Toyo 3.6X- it's inexpensive, easy to use, and relatively robust. Never tried anything else, since the Toyo has worked fine for my needs.

[Kirk Gittings]

You'll get all kinds of thoughts and suggestions, it's just a matter of what works best for each person. But don't caught up in the idea that you need one of those $100+ loupes. Most loupes are made for viewing slides on a light table where optics relating to things such as color accuracy are important. When you're using a loupe to focus a LF camera you're only using it as a magnifying glass so there's no need to pay for fancy optics that you don't need. Brian Ellis

Here here.

[Capocheny]

Funny, I have a Leica that cost as much as a first born child. A Toyo that I like because it's long and has the rubber base. The one I use the most is a plastic Agfa that I spray painted the skirt black. It's cheap, handy, light and it's not rocket science.

Hi Jim,

Is that the large loupe that has the slide attachment at the bottom? The case is also round in shape about 5 plus inches long?

Anyway, it's a GREAT loupe and is very easy on the eyes with extended use.

I also use the Toyo loupe and a Horseman 7x model.

My favorite version is the Toyo 3x but that may have to be upgraded to the 7x Horseman model as my eyes start worsening with time. :(

Had one of the little Schnerider loupes but just couldn't get a good hold on them. So, off they went.

Lots of different models out there... it's just a matter of what you get use to over time.

Cheers

[John Kasaian]

I've got a Silvestri 6x. I like her swell!

[Matus Kalisky]

I am using currently Horizon 4x with square 50x50mm base. It is rather large one, but does the job perfectly. I used cheap Peak 8x with rectangular base before but it had no cotaings, field distortion and was sharp only in the middle. The horizon is also great on the light table. I like it.

[Leonard Metcalf]

My first Loupe was the older schneider 4x, which I loved. Latter I bought the Toyo one thinking that because it was designed as view camera loupe it may perform better. But in use I always preferred the schneider. I later bought the Ebony handheld loupe which you have to focus by holding it at the right distance from the ground glass. I thought that it would be a weight / space saving good idea. Basically it didn't suit me either. I also tried a 6x Peak which was too much magnification for me. As I had my first schneider stolen I recently bought the new schneider 4 x which in hind site is well worth the investment.

In summary the Schneider is by far my favorite to use on my 4x5

[john collins]

The Horseman 6X long loupe.

[kev curry]

I removed the lens housing from an old broken Paterson major focus finder and fitted it into a neat little plumbers fitting. After a little patient filling -millimeter by millimeter- to shorten the fitting, I got it to focus perfectly when placed in contact with the ground glass. Never cost me a bean and yet to be troubled by a focus issue.

Kev

[evan clarke]

I also like the Silvestri, I have Rodenstocks, Schneiders and a Toyo. The Silvestri does th job wonerfully and is half the size of the rest, one of my best LF purchases...EC

[Jim Rhoades]

Capocheny; The Leica did have a slide base that's somewhere in my darkroom. Long lost to non-use. I use it on a light table for checking negatives. It never leaves the light table. It is great for checking sharpness on the film.

For focusing a gritty ground glass any cheap plastic works for me.

[Nicolai Morrisson]

Toyo 3.6... the magnification is enough for me, and I *really* like that it has a rubber gasket on the bottom so there's no chance it'll screw up the ground glass. And the price is nice.

(To summarize: ditto Darren.)

[Rakesh Malik]

I have one of the Toyo loupes, but I mostly use my Ebony handheld loupe now. I like the Toyo, the magnification was nice as was the extra length, but what I like about the Ebony is that it's very easy to see the corners with it. It also allows you to see a lot more of the ground glass at once, which I like.

The obvious downside is that you focus by moving your hand. I just lean my hand against the frame of the camera to keep it still once I get the right distance, which I find by focusing on the grid lines on the ground glass.

[Capocheny]

Capocheny; The Leica did have a slide base that's somewhere in my darkroom. Long lost to non-use. I use it on a light table for checking negatives. It never leaves the light table. It is great for checking sharpness on the film.

For focusing a gritty ground glass any cheap plastic works for me.

Hi Jim,

Thanks... it IS the same loupe then. It's a biggie alright.

And, it's so easy on the eyes even with extended use. :)

Cheers

[John Sarsgard]

Reading glasses considerably stronger than you need work well. And they are hands free!

[Herbert A Terbrack]

Sometimes myopic vision comes in handy. I can remove my glasses and get close enough to the ground glass to fine focus (I have 20/400 vision uncorrected). Seems to work well enough for me. At least I can't see the difference. I'm not sure if this is better than a loupe but I have use the agfa and another no name loupe. I've bid on the Toyo and Schneider but some people seem to think the used loupes are more expensive than new. I refuse to pay 80 to 90 percent of a new loupe. Sometimes when you add in the shipping and handling its cheaper to buy a new one.

[BradS]

+3 reading glasses...cheap, effective and hands free!

[domenico Foschi]

The viewing lens of a broken Pentax spotmeter V.
Distortion at the edges?
Who cares about that, especially after Jim Galli has flooded the market with those Brass lenses?:)

[davidpalermo]

I’d like to buy a Toyo 4x or 3.6x focusing loupe. Do any of you want to sell one? Thank you!

David


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Drew Bedo]

I am wondering what people look for in a focusing loupe, what features help their picture taking or just make their lives easier. How much magnification seems optimal, is the ability to focus the loupe important, does the loupe need something to protect the ground glass, what or which have greater eye relief (eyeglass wearer). I'm just curious to hear about most anything that users find to be important in their louping experience, and what brands/types they find most satisfying.
Thanks,
LJS


I have used qa pair of really strong prescription reading glasses.

I have used a strong sert of jeweler's Optivisor magnifying heafd set.

Now I use a Rodenstock 6x photographer's loupe exclusively.

[Alan Klein]

I have used qa pair of really strong prescription reading glasses.

I have used a strong sert of jeweler's Optivisor magnifying heafd set.

Now I use a Rodenstock 6x photographer's loupe exclusively.

How did you like the glasses and Optivisor?

[Tin Can]

My favorite is discontinued, replaced by a clear base model, but the replacement could be blacked out. I bought last year...

9X adjustable focus, very sturdy Made in USA

9X Transparent Base Magnifier Edmunds Industrial

https://www.edmundoptics.com/p/9x-transparent-base-magnifier/1845/

I drilled a hole in base, using new shoelace to carry it around my neck

9X solved my problem

[Ulophot]

I have two Toyos, one which focuses and one which doesn't otherwise apparently identical. Optics are MUCH better than the plastic Agfas et al.

When I need to view edges or corners, I simply reverse the loupe and use my fingers as spacers to achieve correct distance to the GG. Is it a little frustrating? Yes, but I'll take it over not being able to see what's happening in those areas at all! I could make a skirt for this use to make the distance correct with the slight back edge in the way, but that would then mean taking it on and off, carrying it in a pocket (or maybe attaching by cord to the loupe, where it would undoubtedly a pain). I don't have the skills to make a collared extension that could fold against the loupe and fold out for use.

[Drew Bedo]

How did you like the glasses and Optivisor?

The glasses were convenient in some ways, but I was "chicken-necking" under the Dark Cloth. Not always sure I was in focus for the image on the front surface of the GG.

The Optivisoe worked OK indoors when the dark cloth was not needed. Out doors, the Optvisor was difficult to store and deploy and interfered with the dark cloth. The focus ambiguity was still a problem.

t loupe stores compactly, hangs around my neck and is sure to focus on the image formed on the front surface of the GG.

[John Kasaian]

Ahh, but the Silvestri is the Sophia Loren of loupes! :o
LOL!

[Peter De Smidt]

Pentax 5.5x Lupe.

[Alan Klein]

The glasses were convenient in some ways, but I was "chicken-necking" under the Dark Cloth. Not always sure I was in focus for the image on the front surface of the GG.

The Optivisoe worked OK indoors when the dark cloth was not needed. Out doors, the Optvisor was difficult to store and deploy and interfered with the dark cloth. The focus ambiguity was still a problem.

t loupe stores compactly, hangs around my neck and is sure to focus on the image formed on the front surface of the GG.

I wonder if anyone has tried those little clip on magnifier lenses that you can clip to your glasses and turn into position when you need them?

[Ulophot]

I use a pair of clip-ons. It took me a while to remember to flip them up when using the loupe for fine focusing -- loupe doesn't allow focus otherwise -- but they're great for seeing the ground glass. I need my glasses for astigmatism, so I use my distance glasses (as opposed to my computer-monitor-distance ones) when photographing, and use the clip-ons and loupe both, as indicated.

[Drew Bedo]

Many types of focusing aids can be made to work. If something works for you, go for it.

Aftter doing different things, I have gone to a loupe that can be adjusted for my ground glass, to focus on the surface that forms the image. There is no guess work or physical adjustment required. I have found that other types of magnifiers introduce another "fiddle-factor" into my work flow that interrupts my movement from unpacking-setting up to finally re-inserting the dark slide after tripping the shutter.

I already have an on-going problem with getting all the steps right. Going to a properly set up quality loupe is one aspect of streamlining and simplifying how I get to that final dark-slide-in step.

[Alan Klein]

Many types of focusing aids can be made to work. If something works for you, go for it.

Aftter doing different things, I have gone to a loupe that can be adjusted for my ground glass, to focus on the surface that forms the image. There is no guess work or physical adjustment required. I have found that other types of magnifiers introduce another "fiddle-factor" into my work flow that interrupts my movement from unpacking-setting up to finally re-inserting the dark slide after tripping the shutter.

I already have an on-going problem with getting all the steps right. Going to a properly set up quality loupe is one aspect of streamlining and simplifying how I get to that final dark-slide-in step.

Drew Which loupe do you use?

[Gabe]

I use the Schneider 6x aspheric loupe and have no complaints. I installed an o-ring of the correct diameter and thickness underneath the lip of the eyepiece focus ring. This acts as a spacer to ensure it retains the correct height to focus through the fresnel onto the GG without having to constantly check & reset it every time.

[Alan Klein]

I use the Schneider 6x aspheric loupe and have no complaints. I installed an o-ring of the correct diameter and thickness underneath the lip of the eyepiece focus ring. This acts as a spacer to ensure it retains the correct height to focus through the fresnel onto the GG without having to constantly check & reset it every time.

Isn't the GG further away? Wouldn't you need to get closer?

[Gabe]

Isn't the GG further away? Wouldn't you need to get closer?

The minimum focus distance of the loupe is set when the ring is screwed all the way in to the body, and is designed to focus on objects precisely at the end of the loupe's skirt. By racking the focus ring out you set the focus point beyond that.

[Alan Klein]

The minimum focus distance of the loupe is set when the ring is screwed all the way in to the body, and is designed to focus on objects precisely at the end of the loupe's skirt. By racking the focus ring out you set the focus point beyond that.

So what do people do with loupes that aren't adjustable?

[Bob Salomon]

So what do people do with loupes that aren't adjustable?

Either be slightly out of focus by resting it on the gg or fresnel or try to hold it at the proper distance so the grain of the gg is in sharp focus while, at the same time, focusing the camera and checking dof.

[Ulophot]

Alan, if the your unadjustable loupe is too close rather than too far, and if it is one similar to my unadjustable Wista loupe, which is round (see below; you may find a better photo in a web search), consider making an extension skirt from the kind of black plastic used for report folders, available at various stores. Even I was able to make a good one, and I'm pathetic at construction. I used the plastic, some glued-on or self-adhesive flocking paper (a non-reflective velveteen- or suede-like surface) from Michael's art supply, for the inner surface, and black gaffer's tape.

Using a ruler and a piece of paper card stock, I first found the needed extra distance using the ruler and then cutting a strip of the card stock wrapped around the loupe base. In my loupe's design, the upper edge of the skirt hits flush with the wider knurled ring. I honed the measurement until I got precise focus on the ground surface of the ground glass.

I used the final card width to cut a longer-than-needed strip of my plastic-flocking paper sandwich. The flocking paper is more non-slip than a plastic-on-plastic surface would be. Bit by bit, I shaved off pieces of the strip's length until it fit tightly around the loupe base, and then used gaffer's tape to secure it.

If you're out in the heat a lot, maybe gluing a strip of plastic or other material to hold the skirt on would serve better than gaffer's tape.

Mine stays on firmly. As I mentioned above, reversing the loupe end-to-end and using fingers to space it from the GG is one way, if not ideal, to focus at edges and in corners.

[Alan Klein]

The fresnel is between the GG and my eye. So that means my unadjustable loop sits focused on the fresnel. Don't I have to get the loupe closer to the fresnel to get the GG in focus. Wouldn't lengthening it just put it out of focus? Shouldn't I have to shorten its length so it's closer?

[Bob Salomon]

The fresnel is between the GG and my eye. So that means my unadjustable loop sits focused on the fresnel. Don't I have to get the loupe closer to the fresnel to get the GG in focus. Wouldn't lengthening it just put it out of focus? Shouldn't I have to shorten its length so it's closer?

See for yourself. Take your lens off. Point the camera at a light source, move your loupe towards and away from the gg till you sharply see its grain. That is the point where your loupe is sharply focused on the grain side of your gg. It’s an easy experiment.

[Alan Klein]

OK Thanks everyone.

[younghoon Kil]

209195

Has anyone used the Chamonix/JOBO 5x ground glass loupe? :)

-- https://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/accessories/viewfinders (Chamonix/JOBO 5x ground glass loupe)

[John Earley]

I started out with a linen tester when I first got into large format. That was a pain to use so I purchased a Schneider 4x loupe which I used for a few years until I lost it. Next I bought a Peak loupe and used that until it was swiped. Next was a cheap 6x plastic loupe with electrical tape around the clear bottom apron and I used that for a number of years until I bought a 5x7 camera with a folding shade over the ground glass. That was when I purchased a Gaoersi 8x loupe that I've found worked better than any of the others I've used. I like the length, the rubber ring on the GG end and the fact that it seems to be closer to 6x than 8x. The lanyard is also a plus.