The Bestest Meter Ever

[steve_782]

My PhotoResearch LiteMate III finally puked after 25 years and I couldn't get it fixed. The new version was $1500 for a footcandle / lux meter. I was having a hard time coughing up the money for a dedicate FC / Lux meter.

I looked at a number of alternatives, and then found a new meter from Gossen - the Starlite. I ordered it as it was 1/2 the price of the new PhotoResearch and would do FC readings to 0.05 FC.

Well, it got here and I'm totally blown away. It will do incident readings, the sphere retracts to do FC/Lux readings, it functions as as a 1 degree or 5 degree spot meter - which by the way, you can use to read foot lamberts or candelas per square meter.

It has cine scales with variable shutter angles, and a Zone system scale that will allow you to measure Zone V and then highlight and shadows - and will show the relationship on a linear scale.

Oh, yeah, it's also a full function flash meter - either incident or spot.

I have a LOT of different meters gathered over the years, (Luna Pro (2), Weston Master V, Pentax Digital Spot, Soligor spot, Gossen UltraPro, and the broken Litemate III) - I'm freaking impressed....

[Bob Gentile]

Dang! And I'm still workin' with an old Weston II and an analog Pentax Spotmeter!

One of these days...

[Alan Davenport]

And here I am, still salivating every time I get my Luna Pro F out of the bag...

[Per Madsen]

And here I am, still salivating every time I get my Luna Pro F out of the bag...

I also have the same Gossen meter. The Luna Pro F was named the Lunasix F in
Europe.

Still works after 25 years.

[evan clarke]

I use Gossen Ultra Spots for zone readings. I also have a Starlite which does zone readings but the good thing is taht it will let you place a hidhlight as the holder or a shadow..EC

[Helen Bach]

Isn't there a difference in the spectral response of the Starlite (for photographic use) and the Litemate (photopic), or doesn't it matter for your application?

Best,
Helen

[Brian K]

I just use "sunny 16".

[Michael Graves]

Light meter? What is that and what do you use it for?

[Alan Davenport]

sunny 16" ////// Light meter? What is that...

I knew it was only a matter of time before the Luddites showed up. There is no facet of photography so low-tech, that someone isn't going to mention that he/she doesn't care to use that new-fangled stuff.

Sunny 16 is great as a backup system if the meter's battery croaks. I sometimes do the calculations as a reality-check after I've integrated a bunch of meter readings, but I see no great advantage in leaving the meter at home.

If light meters were good enough for St. Ansel, I guess they're good enough for me.

[Jim Galli]

Actually the technology of meaningful light meters and the zone system both appeared about the same time. There may be a good reason for that.

[Eric Woodbury]

You need to feel impressed for $1500.

[Rory_5244]

Is it just me or the Starlite does not read as well in low light as the specs suggest? I always keep getting the dreaded "Err" in low light conditions, even in incident mode. I will shut up now before Graeme H. pounces on me for bad-talking the Starlite again. :o

[steve_782]

Isn't there a difference in the spectral response of the Starlite (for photographic use) and the Litemate (photopic), or doesn't it matter for your application?

Best,
Helen

No Helen, it doesn't matter. The PhotoResearch LiteMate PR-524 is traceable with NIST Illuminant A (2856K) +/- 2%, but I don't need that level of accuracy. I also don't need to measure light values down to 0.001 FC.

My work involves the measurement of a number of different kinds of light sources (types of HID, most often high-pressure sodium) for contrast ratios and light level verification.

The Gossen will provide the information needed for that use. The LiteMate III was not traceable and was color corrected to eye response, while the Gossen is color corrected for film response. Neither matters when I'm just looking for gross values (light level / contrast ratio) in mostly mono-spectral light.

Or, did I miss something?

If it does not prove to work as needed, I'll probably purchase the PR-525 ($2500) as that is also a color meter. After all, it's only money and you can always make more.

[steve_782]

You need to feel impressed for $1500.

Ummmm...the StarLite didn't cost $1500 - the PhotoResearch PR-524 LiteMate, which is the direct replacement for my LiteMate III, is the piece of equipment that cost $1500. Maybe you should read a little more carefully before you park your drive-thru, snide comment in a thread?

[Frank Petronio]

I don't mean to be snide, but whenever I try one of these ultimate meters I find them as confusing as the TV-DVR-Cable remote controls. I wonder how many people use more than 5% of the functions beyong basic flash and ambient metering? I mean if I can't count 2-3 stops up or down then my dimentia is way off the charts.

[Brian K]

sunny 16" ////// Light meter? What is that...

I knew it was only a matter of time before the Luddites showed up. There is no facet of photography so low-tech, that someone isn't going to mention that he/she doesn't care to use that new-fangled stuff.

Sunny 16 is great as a backup system if the meter's battery croaks. I sometimes do the calculations as a reality-check after I've integrated a bunch of meter readings, but I see no great advantage in leaving the meter at home.

If light meters were good enough for St. Ansel, I guess they're good enough for me.


As a zone vi, pocket spot, minolta flashmeter IV, gossen one degree , calculite XP owning Luddite I have to say that the best results i usually get are with sunny 16 tempered by my experience.

[neil poulsen]

I have two meters and like both of them.

I've had a Pentax V analog 1 degree spot meter for many years, and it's always served me well. Very simple and straight-forward. I have a simple system that I use with this meter that makes it easy to do the zone system.

My other meter is a Sekonic 508 that also works well for color. Like the Pentax, it also has a 1 - 5 degree meter for spot readings. A feature that I miss having is a Pocket Wizard transmitter to test lights.

I tend to use the Pentax for black and white and the Sekonic 508 for color.

[steve_782]

I don't mean to be snide, but whenever I try one of these ultimate meters I find them as confusing as the TV-DVR-Cable remote controls. I wonder how many people use more than 5% of the functions beyong basic flash and ambient metering? I mean if I can't count 2-3 stops up or down then my dimentia is way off the charts.

I guess you didn't read my post carefully. It's about having a meter for photometric purposes that doesn't cost $1500. I was thrilled to find a replacement for my LiteMate III for about 1/2 the cost of PhotoResearch PR-524 - which is a single use, FC/lux meter only.

The fact that the Gossen can do a number of other types of metering is a bonus. It's surprisingly easy to use as you set DIP switches to convert between functions. That way, you're only dealing with a limited menu system dedicated to the function you've selected. If you find selecting one of four DIP switches confusing - well, I can't really relate.

[Frank Bagbey]

Brian has the right idea. Using your head may be better than a meter and certainly should be practiced before just relying on a meter blindly. Also, all of us have experienced times where the meter just did not seem to be correct or fooled us. Figure the exposure according to the Sunny Sixteen rule, make the interpolations according to your film speed and the adjustments you need to make for your subject, THEN, use your meter and see how right you probably were in the first place.
Frank Bagbey

[Vick Vickery]

I'm afraid I'm with Bob Gentile. except my Westons are a Master V and a Master VI. Bob, we must be from the dark ages! But, then, we can still read 'em! :-)

[John Berry]

I use the ground glass as a meter, and have a 508 for confirmation.

[Emrehan Zeybekoglu]

"we must be from the dark ages!"

Surely there are degrees of darkness.