PDA

View Full Version : First attempt with Jobo 3010 and Rollo Pyro.. now questions



brian steinberger
2-Jan-2007, 15:46
I just ran a batch of 8 4x5 tri-x negatives last night in rollo pyro. All came out perfectly, except one, which didn't receive enough developer, not sure why, I think maybe I put it in base side inward.

Anyway, I followed the instructions that came with the Rollo Pyro, but also used some information I've gotten from the book of pyro. I loaded the film into a water filled drum after giving each sheet a short wetting in a tray of water.

First Question: How much developer do I need to be using? I've read everything from 500ml to 1500ml.

Second Question: Do I need to use the same amount for the other solutions?

Third Question: Washing.... I just put 1500ml of water in, and emptied it alot at the beginning of the washing stage and less later on. Does anyone have a washing suquence when washing in the tank? Does the time it takes to dump the tank count in the washing time? Because it takes a while to drain the 3010.

Then finally after 20 minutes of wash I soaked them in a tray of distilled water and photo flo and hung them to dry

Forth Question: How much time do I need to cut off of times intended to inversion processing. I way over cooked these negs. I souped the tri-x negs at 12 minutes at 70 degrees. This is what Gordon Hutchings recommends in his book, but I believe he's talking about inversion and tray processing.

Thats about it. Just looking for answers to simple concerns and any suggestions anyone might have for me. Thanks!

sanking
2-Jan-2007, 16:02
OK, just my opinioin here


First Question:[/B] How much developer do I need to be using? I've read everything from 500ml to 1500ml.

About a minimum of 250 ml per 8X10 negative, or the equivalent.


Second Question:[/B] Do I need to use the same amount for the other solutions?

No. You could use more or less. Just make sure the filter does not die during fixing.

Third Question:[/B] Washing.... I just put 1500ml of water in, and emptied it alot at the beginning of the washing stage and less later on. Does anyone have a washing suquence when washing in the tank? Does the time it takes to dump the tank count in the washing time? Because it takes a while to drain the 3010.

No. I always remove the film from the drum and wash in a tray or archival print washer, depeding on size.

How much time do I need to cut off of times intended to inversion processing. I way over cooked these negs. I souped the tri-x negs at 12 minutes at 70 degrees. This is what Gordon Hutchings recommends in his book, but I believe he's talking about inversion and tray processing.

You need to reduce times at lot with Rollo Pyro compared to PMK times. Rollo Pyro is much, much more energetic than PMK when the two are used at the recommended dilutions. I would suggest cutting times by about 40%=50%.


Sandy King

Michael Gordon
2-Jan-2007, 16:06
Q1: I use 500ml for up to ten sheets, and my development has always been perfect.

Q3: I do eight washes in the drum with tap water, 500mls of water per wash, and then dump. My washes are four at 1 min each, one at 2 mins, one at 3 mins, one at 4 mins, and then two washes of five mins each. Total wash time is 22 mins, and I dont really pay attention to dump time (if you hold the 3010 drum at the right angle, it drains in just a few seconds). I PhotoFlo for 30 seconds or so in a separate container.

Q4: Not sure about Tri-X, but I run my Delta 100 and Fuji Acros both at 68-70f for 8.5 mins. I dont mind a slightly flat negative as I scan and print digitally.

brian steinberger
2-Jan-2007, 17:59
Sandy and Michael, thanks for the responses! I think I'll stick with 500ml as Michael suggested.

Sandy,

I've read many posts which you've added information and also have read many of your articles and you seem to be a great source of information, particularly when it comes to staining developers.

I know you've developed Pyrocat HD and have been meaning to ask the question in a post, how does Pyrocat HD compare to Rollo Pyro? I know both are great for rotary processing. That is next on my list to try, when I'm out of PMK and Rollo Pyro.

Thanks again for the help!

sanking
2-Jan-2007, 19:50
Sandy and Michael, thanks for the responses! I think I'll stick with 500ml as Michael suggested.

Sandy,

I've read many posts which you've added information and also have read many of your articles and you seem to be a great source of information, particularly when it comes to staining developers.

I know you've developed Pyrocat HD and have been meaning to ask the question in a post, how does Pyrocat HD compare to Rollo Pyro? I know both are great for rotary processing. That is next on my list to try, when I'm out of PMK and Rollo Pyro.

Thanks again for the help!

Rollo Pyro and Pyrocat-HD give very similar results. In fact, times for the recommended dilution of Rollo Pyro and the 2:2:100 dilution of Pyrocat-HD are virtually identical. And they both work with rotary processing "as is" with no need for further modification or split development. Both also work fine with tray processing.

Sandy King