polaroid 55 4x5

[andrea1971]

Hello I have had a question Would Want to know some advice on the use of the polaroid 55 4x5. Just I began to use it and I would want printer the negative polaroid for me marvellous if someone has experience thanks I Ask excuse for the mine awful English:) :)

[Walter Calahan]

Over exposure the negative a little.

Instead of rating the film at 50 ISO, try 40 or 32 ISO.

This should give you better shadow detail, and a richer negative without blowing out the highlights.

There's a lot of little tricks about Type 55 you'll learn over time.

I have examples on my work with Type 55 on my web site.

http://www.walterpcalahan.com

[andrea1971]

thanks thanks

[Ted Harris]

Andrea, the shot you see in my avatar is T55. You can see a larger view of it here http://www.fourpointlanding.com/Notecards/Notecards-Pages/Image36.html. I shoot T55 at 25 to 32. The negative material is Kodak Panatomic X.

[darr]

Here is a page with info on how to shoot, clean, store, print, etc. Polaroid 55:
http://www.cameraartist.com/words/2006/07/how_i_shoot_polaroid_55_pn.html

[andrea1971]

Grazie....a tutti ted visto tua foto molto bella:)

thanks to all ted seen your very attractive photograph:)

[Dirk Baeumker]

I use P55 a lot, usually at 32 ASA for the negative.
Development time is about 35 seconds - during that time I remove the metal clamp at the bottom end - this lets you easily tear apart the cover sheets after development. Though it's not necessary to do so, it's just easier to handle.
It's also a good idea to "carefully" push the developer gel from both ends to the center. This will reduce the "peak" area of un-developed film at the bottom. But be careful, if you accidently break the gel bag - your image is ruined.
Have fun shooting P55 - it's great.

[Mark Pope]

I have a three questions:
firstly, what Polaroid back(s) do you need to use type 55 film? I notice that there appear to be several types.

Secondly, do you have to 'process' the film straight away? Can you remove the film from the camera and process it later on. This might be advantageous in cold weather.

Finally, if you do have to process the film there and then, how do you protect the negative until you can process it in sodium sulphite to clear it?

Thanks

[Dirk Baeumker]

what Polaroid back(s) do you need to use type 55 film?

I use a Polaroid 545i back.


do you have to 'process' the film straight away? Can you remove the film from the camera and process it later on.


You do not have to process the film straight away.
Yes you can.
When using the 545i back, you leave the lever in "L" position and push down the release button below the "P" manually. Then you can carfully slip the film out of the holder. For processing, you insert the film as usual, set the lever to "P" and "P"-rocess...



how do you protect the negative until you can process it in sodium sulphite to clear it?

You may keep the negative in a Tupperware box filled with water. Simply make sure they do not scratch and don't fall dry. Nevertheless, If I need to process on the spot, I prefer to clear and keep the negatives in sodium sulphite on the spot as well.
You may keep the negatives in the sodium sulphite for hours if you like, without changing anything. If you remove the green slime after clearing, your clearing bath will last a little longer.

[Donald Qualls]

I have a three questions:
firstly, what Polaroid back(s) do you need to use type 55 film? I notice that there appear to be several types.

Secondly, do you have to 'process' the film straight away? Can you remove the film from the camera and process it later on. This might be advantageous in cold weather.

Finally, if you do have to process the film there and then, how do you protect the negative until you can process it in sodium sulphite to clear it?

Thanks

Polaroid recommends the 545, 545i, or 545 Professional, but with care and attention you can also use the older 500 film back. I have one and have used it, and if you can get one for almost nothing, as I did, and don't or won't use much Polaroid film, it's a practical way to proceed, though I'm not sure I'd keep mine (except possibly as a backup) if I were shooting a lot of Polaroid. Since the 500 doesn't have a built-in stop compatible with modern Polaroid 4x5 packets, you have to determine how far you can pull the envelope to uncover the film without pulling so far you can't reinsert, but this isn't difficult. Other than the necessity of paying attention *every time* you pull the envelope, the 500 works exactly like a 545 -- but being made of metal, it's heavier and IMO more durable than the plastic versions of the 545 (IIRC, the 545 Professional is also metal, but it's the most expensive of the family as well).

With my 500, at least, it's possible to pull the film without processing and process later -- this is the better way to proceed if, for instance, ambient temperature is below about 60 F, which would preclude good development even with greatly extended processing time. With the 500, there's a little nub on the bottom end of the holder; you reinsert the envelope after exposing, remove the entire holder from the camera back, leave the lever set to "Load", and push the nub to release the metal clip, while pulling the packet out. When ready to process (say, back in your darkroom where the temperature is suitable) you don't even need the camera, just the back. Insert the packet, flip the lever to "Process" and pull the packet out just as you would if processing immediately after exposure. I believe the 545 backs operate the same way, but I've never used one.

Up to you to keep track of exposed vs. unexposed packets... :eek:

For processing in the field, one simple way to handle negative clearing is to carry zipper bags with a couple ounces each of your sulfite solution. When you peel a packet, separate the negative, zip open a bag, drop the negative in, squeeze out the air and seal up the bag. The bags with their negatives can then be stacked in a lunch cooler or similar to keep from folding and mutilating, as well as trapping any leakage.

[Mark Pope]

Thanks Dirk and Donald!

[Dirk Baeumker]

For processing in the field, one simple way to handle negative clearing is to carry zipper bags with a couple ounces each of your sulfite solution. When you peel a packet, separate the negative, zip open a bag, drop the negative in, squeeze out the air and seal up the bag. The bags with their negatives can then be stacked in a lunch cooler or similar to keep from folding and mutilating, as well as trapping any leakage.

Thanks Donald,
this is a great idea - I'll try your method next time I will process P55 in the field.

[andrea1971]

A small question. much difficulty to clean the negative one also after to have washed it in the solution of bisolfito and alume of potassium remain remaining of development. Some advice thanks

[Dirk Baeumker]

Be patient. Although the developer usually comes off the negative very quickly, it somtimes come off hardly at all. Keep the negative for some time in the clearing bath (usually a couple of minutes). If gel still remains sticky - go on and rinse the negatives. After 15 to 20 minutes rinsing time under flowing water, all developer should have gone off the negative. Use some wetting agent (Agepon, Photo-flo) for one minute approx. after rinsing.
This procedure should avoid any scratches on the negative.

Never, never, never rub off the developer gel - you'll ruin the negative.

[Chris Strobel]

What I do is put neg in A 5X7 TRAY OFsodium sulfite for 5 min, then in a 5x7 tray of kodak rapid fix.After about 2 or 3 min. in the fix I GENTLY massage off any remaining goo with my nitrile gloved fingers, then its off to the wash in a polaroid clearing bucket with the film rack, then to a 5x7 tray of photoflo in distilled water.I have NEVER scratched a neg with this method personally.YMMV

[andrea1971]

thanks friends I will experience