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View Full Version : Any alternative to a combi plan tank?



robc
13-Jun-2006, 12:19
Are there any altenatives to a combi plan tank for daylight processing. I'm looking for something which allows intermittent agitation without using huge amounts of chemistry.

In the mean time, does anyone know where or if you can get spare parts for a combi plan tank. The top clip which grips/holds the film in place is worn so occasionally the outer sheet of film comes loose during processing.

Bob Salomon
13-Jun-2006, 13:51
You can call us for spare parts or order them from any of our dealers. The clip is ratcheted. It will break if you do not gently press the bars on each side of the clip to release the ratchet.

973 808-9010

Gregory Gomez
13-Jun-2006, 13:52
Hi,

If you are interested, I have a Combi Plan Tank that I have never used for $45. You can send me an e-mail if you like. The Tank is in storage, so it will take me a day or two to find it.

Bruce Watson
13-Jun-2006, 14:02
You can also get intermittant agitation from the old Nikor sheet film tanks. Good for sheet film up to 5x4, and I think 12 sheets at a time. If you go this route, make sure the one you get includes the stainless band that goes around the reel to hold the sheets in place during processing. Nikor tanks show up on the auction site from time to time. You might want to check the FS listings here and at APUG also.

robc
13-Jun-2006, 14:07
Thanks for the offer Gregory but I'll just get the spare parts for now.

Bob, I,ll call tomorrow as you just closed for the day.


I'm also looking at a jobo 3010 expert drum. Does anyone know how much chemistry it takes if it is used standing up and can you invert it without the chemistry coming out?

I know they are designed for roller use but the spec says it will take upto 1L of chemistry but I don't know if that's the limit for when its on a roller.

Nick_3536
13-Jun-2006, 17:25
If you think 1litre or so is okay then just get a Jobo 2521 tank and a 2509N reel. It'll use a little more then 1litre in inversion mode. Don't leak in my expierence. If you need more then six sheets then go with the 2551 tank and two reels. That'll handle 12 sheet but will take about 2x the solution.

To the best of my knowledge the various expert tanks can't be used in inversion mode.

Brian Schall
14-Jun-2006, 08:32
Hi,

If you are interested, I have a Combi Plan Tank that I have never used for $45. You can send me an e-mail if you like. The Tank is in storage, so it will take me a day or two to find it.

Gregory

I sent you a PM concerning your Combi Tank. I would be interested in it.

Brian

Ron Marshall
14-Jun-2006, 10:03
I just measured the volume of my Jobo 3010. With all five cylinders filled to the top it takes 2850 ml.

robc
14-Jun-2006, 10:44
thanks Ron,

thats quite a lot of chemistry. Too much to use as an inversion tank.

Gregory Gomez
14-Jun-2006, 14:36
Brian and Phong,

I have sent personal messages to each of you regarding the Combi-Tank.

Phong, please let me know if you are still interested in the unit.

Thank you.

Greg

Phong
14-Jun-2006, 18:08
Greg,

PM sent.

Patrik Roseen
15-Jun-2006, 08:00
robc, I use a combiplan tank and to reduce the need for chemistry I use Aculux-2 as 1:19 and develop my efke PL100 for about 15 minutes 20C with 5-10 seconds agitation every minute.

If I only have three sheets to develop I develop in the combiplan by laying it on its side...then one only needs to fill enough to cover the three sheets. (need to remember which side though)

I have read somewhere that people use the combiplan holder for twelve sheets by putting them in pairs (back-to-back) in each of the sheet-rails. I have not tried this myself but it sounds interesting. (Maybe it requries certain type of filmsheets without gelatin on the back, otherwise they might stick to each other?)

I like the combiplan procedure ... but the chemistry consumption is discouraging.

Bob Salomon
15-Jun-2006, 09:05
"I have read somewhere that people use the combiplan holder for twelve sheets by putting them in pairs (back-to-back) in each of the sheet-rails. I have not tried this myself but it sounds interesting. (Maybe it requries certain type of filmsheets without gelatin on the back, otherwise they might stick to each other?"

Black and white can be processed back to back in the Combi plan tank. Color can not. Some people sandwich a piece of fiberglass window screen material between the sheets of B&W film. Others simply pre-wash the B&W film prior to sandwiching them and others just sandwich 2 sheets back to back. All 3 methods work.

Color does not as the backing has to be washed off or processed off.

Jon Shiu
15-Jun-2006, 09:45
You can do 12 sheets with the sheets back to back, but I believe they will need additional fixing after separating them. (Or it may be that hypo clear and washing will remove the green color off the base.)

Jon

robc
15-Jun-2006, 11:56
I have processed 12 sheets in a combi plan and I can tell you that it is quite probable that some sheets will stick together and are a ****** to get apart without leaving marks on the film. Also has been said, additional fixing may be required after getting the film apart. The reason is because films with antihalation coating on the reverse of the film, don't get it washed out during normal processing. Some films seem to require fixer to do this rather than plain water. Using slightly warm water helps as well as extended washing but for me the risk of the sheets sticking together isn't worth it.

John Kasaian
16-Jun-2006, 00:33
You could try a Unicolor processor---probably not much more than a new Combi plan tank. Just make sure you get the print drum for your negs.

Leonard Metcalf
16-Jun-2006, 04:17
I run 12 black and white sheets in my combi all the time, I don't presoak before loading, and yes I just put them back into the fixer.

Len

Patrik Roseen
16-Jun-2006, 05:25
I run 12 black and white sheets in my combi all the time, I don't presoak before loading, and yes I just put them back into the fixer.

Len

So it does work?
Leonard, Please tell me which film you are using and I'm also curious about the 'putting them back into the fixer'. Do you do this after the complete process i.e. develop, stop, fix, rinse' and then into the fixer again...then I guess you need to rinse them again or?

Maybe it's best if you describe your working procedure...I'm very eager to learn from someone with a positive experience.

robc
16-Jun-2006, 08:32
Thanks Nick__3536 et all,

I bought a Jobo 2521 tank and a 2509N and have also got a replacement clip for the Combi Plan Tank which was ridiculously expensive in the UK.

The Jobo is designed with hand inversion in mind. i.e. it is not just for roller/auto system. It does use about 20% to 25% more chemistry than the combi plan when being used for hand inversion processing. When used horizontally on a roller it takes a lot less. 270ml.

Will report back ease of use and results in due course.

I did own an old design of Jobo 4x5 reel which was prone to film popping out of guides when used for inversion but this new ones looks much better and has two inserts which are put in place after film is inserted. They make the spool much more rigid and add some pressure to the film so I expect it to work fine.

jerry upchurch
17-Apr-2010, 10:40
In black and white processing you can use a replinisher and use the same developer to develope quite a few sheets of film quite cheaply. Many years ago I had a darkroom and mixed my own developers according to instructions in The Negative by Adams. You also reuse the fixer for a set number of films. The stop bath used to be so cheap that you used it only one time.

ethics_gradient
2-May-2010, 10:24
Is anyone using the Combi Plan for C-41? I've been using it for black and white and like it much better than tray developing, but I'm not sure if the somewhat long filling/draining time would lead to uneven development with C-41 chemistry. With B&W, I get the tank loaded and then take the lid off to pour the developer in and out with the lights off, but for C-41 I'd need to be in a different, non-dark room in order to have a sink adequate for the temperature control required.

Is there anything else I need to consider? What sort of kit would I need, and how many sheets would I get out it? I haven't done my own C-41 before (with the prices of a minilab for 35mm it's hardly worth the bother), but I scored a pretty big stock of 4x5 C-41 on Craigslist a while ago and it might be more economical, not to mention convenient, to start doing it at home versus sending it out.

Bob Salomon
2-May-2010, 11:49
It works just fine for C41, E6, B&W or with lith material. Just follow the directions for filling, emptying and agitating.

Rayt
16-Jun-2010, 05:59
I am a 4x5 newbie and use the 2521 Jobo kit from Freestyle. I also got the roller base for it which is important. Learning how to load the tank is the toughest part but after that it is like processing small format. There are no leaks and the chemistry used was surprisingly little.

Pete Watkins
16-Jun-2010, 06:41
It's easy to suggest this from the UK but Patterson Orbital colour print trays are often on the auction site over here and they are brilliant. Four sheets of 4x5 in 300ml of developer (many use less). The electric base is good but the hand operated base works OK. Then use the Combiplan to wash the developed and fixed film. Never got on with the Combiplan as a developing tank. Perhaps it's me.
Pete.

jp
16-Jun-2010, 08:38
If you are concerned about using up your developer, just dilute it. You might even like the results better in some cases if you have never done it before. d76 can be used stock or 1+1 with different times. Xtol can be stock, 1+1, 1+2, and some people even do 1+3! I have great results with 1+1 and 1+2. You can mix up some caffenol-c or other homemade well proven developers as well.

Other chemicals like fixer are reusable so the volume isn't super important.

Another benefit of larger volumes of chemical is they change temp slower if you don't use a water bath. As an analogy, think how much faster 1/2" of coffee or tea cools off in your mug compared to a full serving.

bvstaples
16-Jun-2010, 12:15
I use a Paterson Orbital. Can only do four sheets at a time (or one 8x10), but I only use about 200 ml of chemistry each batch. Developer I use twice and toss, fix I can use four to five batches. Cheap on the chemical side. I also have the motor base which provide very smooth agitation. Also had to modify the light trap in the lid so as not to scratch the film. Overall I love working with it, it provide very consistent results.

Brian

Pete Watkins
16-Jun-2010, 13:58
Brian,
I use D-76H 1-1 after 2 x 2 minute pre washes and I'm very happy with it. I believe that you need a certain amount of dilution in this type of tank as it reduces the risk of uneven development.
Works for me,
Pete.