another question about arista edu and hc 110

[domenico Foschi]

I have been developing arista edu in hc 110 soup dilution B for 5 minutes ( a bit too thin, I think 6.30 minutes should be right), I have used stop bath, and arista fixer at recommended dilution and the negative has a cian cast.
I thought that washing it would disappear, but I was wrong.
Is this cast normal for this film?
What am I doing wrong?

[robc]

Usually the cast is magenta/pinkish not cyan/bluish for most black and white films.
Anyhow, provided you have fixed the film properly which I assume is the case then the problem is not enough washing. Using slightly warm water helps greatly but 20 deg C should be fine. If you are washing your film by letting tap water flow over it, then in winter when tap water temp may be much cooler it can take a long time to get all the residual antihalation dyes out of the film.

Try washing film at 24 deg C for several minutes and see if that makes a difference.

[Jay DeFehr]

Which Arista Edu, and which speed? Arista Edu 100/Forte 100 has a very clear base, but Arista Edu 400/Forte 400 has a cyan base that won't completely disappear, especially when using a low sulfite developer. Arista Edu Ultra is Foma, and the 200 speed stuff has the same cyan base as the Forte 400. If you're confident in your fixer (other films fix normally) and wash procedure, don't worry too much about the cyan cast.

Jay

[domenico Foschi]

Hi Jay,
it is the Ultra type and so far I have developed the 100, but I will be working on the 400.
I thought it wasn't important and that it would just print through but I wasn't sure.
It sure is odd to look at a negative with such a rather deep blue cast.
I know it isn't wise to use a film in an important instance, but these are the images I shot on my 1 month trip to Italy, and the anxiety was starting to rise.
Again, Jay and Rob, thank you for your input, and any other input is obviously welcome.
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