8x10 film with a Jobo CPE-2 ??

[Calamity Jane]

I know that the recommended setup for 8x10 film is a CPA/CPP-2 with an Expert Drum but I was wondering if a body couldn't do E-6 with a CPE-2 by using plasstic screen or some other form of "spacer" to allow chemical to reach both sides of the film?

I know the CPA/CPP have a circulation pump and certain other features but I suspect a CPE-2 with lift would do as good a job and they're a lot easier to find at a reasonable price.

Anybody doing 8x10 E-6 with a CPE? Are there any other problems or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

[John Kasaian]

Calamity,

I use a Unicolor set up for my 8x10s, the whole processor(drum & base) probably cost less than a Jobo drum(I think around 25-35 US dollars on ebay) and works great.

[mark blackman]

I've used a Jobo 2830 print drum (holds two 10 x 8) to process both B&W and E6 on a Jobo processor with excellent results. Occasionally some of the anti-halation layer remains on the B&W film, but it easily washes off. I Still use it sometimes if I don't have a full load for the 3005 expert drum.

[Calamity Jane]

Thanks Mark, I suspected as much.

John: I have a Unicolor drum for 8x10 but for E-6 I'd really prefer something with a tempering system.

8x10? Why the heck did I buy an 8x10? I didn't need an 8x10! Now that I have got an 8x10 and done some 8x10 POP prints I'm afraid that I'm hooked! I just HAVE to try some 8x10 trannies. . . .

[Dan Smith]

On this one you are much better off to buy the tool designed to do this specific job. Get the CPA or CPP-2 and the Expert drum. You won't be sorry and you won't be sighing with frustration every time you use the smaller setup, wishing you had purchased the correct tool.

There is a world of difference in the bottom line processor and the bigger models. With 8x10 this will be ever more apparent as you continue with your film processing.

Just as nothing smaller compares to the 8x10, the smaller processor doesn't compare to the bigger models. Yes, the smaller one 'can' do it but the larger one is designed specifically to do the job you need. It does it much easier and you won't be sorry for biting the bullet & getting the right tool.

[Bruce Wehman]

A screen backing is a good idea in any drum that has problems with circulation. The one that I use is a stitching project grid that is sold in stores like Hobby Lobby. One version is shown here: http://www.wehmancamera.com/Tube.htm

[tor kviljo]

I have done 8x10 E6's in the CPE size (=ATL-1000 - which I used) print drum. Unlike the othervice identical film-drum, the print drum have two types of ribs inside the tank: many smaller/narrower ribs all around to permit chemicals on both sides of the paper, and a few larger ribs (which can also be fitted with detachable paper-holders to avoid the paper moving from its place) to keep paper in place. Using it with the ATL - it worked excellent with Fujichrome 8x10 film, but not with Ektachrome: heavy magenta/violet fog. I posted a question on the trouble with ektachrome on this forum (or possibly photo.net - LF) and were told that 8x10 ekta had a anti-halo layer which demanded more chemical flow than the paper-tank permitted. Luckily - at this time Freestyle were stuffed with cold-stored cheap Fujichrome LF -material, so I stocked up on fuji & avoided ekta-trouble that way. Fuji material were dev. as perfect as in the ATL-3000 & expert tank that I have now, but process slow because of the limited capasity of the sheet-film drum.

I have had both CPE2+, CPA & ATL 1000 & 3000: once You have used to a nice working ATL, you would probably not look to a C machine again.... Usually, the ATL's is priced (second hand) for much more value for money. I have seen ATL 3000's going for about the same as the CPP/CPA machines, but originally being 10x more expensive & built for the load of a small lab, large studio - not for hobby use as the C machines (& espesially the CPE's) are. There is no C machine where the Lift (mandatory for easy handeling of any tank-type) is able to handle the expert-drums: handle breaks easily & needs a helping hand for any move - flimsy piece of plastic. The ATL's 2xxx & 3000 handle these big tanks with no hassle.

[Calamity Jane]

DAMN! I've got to QUIT hanging out here! You guys are too EXPENSIVE! I was quite happy doing some 4x5s with my homemade camera and a CombiPlan. Now I have a whole stable of cameras in 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 and just wrapping up a deal for a CPA-2 (used but recent vintage) with a 3005 expert drum for 8x10.

Don't know why I keep letting you guys talk me into things . . . and NO, I could NOT afford the ATL model!

Now, can I fit my4x5s in a 3005 drum and fish them out again or do I HAVE to have a 3010 tank for 4x5?

Oh well, you can't take it with you . . . . ;-)

[Donald Hutton]

For E6, I actually prefer using a 2500 series drum with the 2509n reels - I find that chromes processed in the 3010 drum do not lie flat once they are dried (there's always some curl left from the tubes in the drum) - the effect of much warmer solutions may be responsible for this (I have never had any problems with b&w negs in the 3010 - just E6). Needless to say, I have yet to have a chrome out of a 2509 reel which had been anything other than perfect.

[tor kviljo]

Jeeeeezez! sorry to accelerate your spedings on LF - but the ATL's are so comfortable to use! However, I second Don's info about the 2509n & developing 4x5 in small (25xx) series tanks. I use the small ATL 1000 at home, have the big atl 3000 (for 5x7, 8x10 & prints) at work. The 1000 (& your CPA) can run up to 18 4"x5" at a time (3x 2509n reels) - more than any expert drum. I have only good experiences with the 2509n, and any signs of dev. imperfections (non-uniform density in sky & uniform lit areas of the images) I have heared about is usually fix'ed by using only the outer & inner compartment on the 2509 reel (= greater film to film distance/better chemical flow), reducing reel capasity from 6 to 4 sheets/reel. This were most important in pre "n" reels however. The sheet-film lock in the "n" (= new) reels is doing a good job disperse chemistry uniformly over sheets - making it less inportant to run with reduced capasity pr. reel. I do allways 6x 4"x5" in my reels exept when dev. flimsy thin base (cut from aerial film) film. Using the smallest of the 28xx series print tank - the one called "test-tank" you have paper holders & ribs equivalent to the one in the large (8x10 print) tank. This tank have ribs spaced to secure 2 x 4"x5" (paper). Using this You are able to do 2x 4"x5" a time with minimum (60ml or so) chemistry. Let me see - were there still any drums not mentioned yet that You simply MUST have....