Anyone ever try this??? 3D custom board issue

[Monza1966]

I printed this, but i'm having trouble with it...

I didn't design it, i just downloaded the file.

Description says i don't need to screw the lens in (it wont screw in very much anyway), but the lens wont stay put very well.
Gaffers tape might work, but I'm hoping someone else has figured this board out. The lens actually fell out while I was focusing it. Thankfully it didn't hurt the lens.

Here's the link.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1569931

Thanks.
-A.

[AtlantaTerry]

"This model does not require to screw the lens, since it has been designed to fit tight and hold the back of the lens."

YIKES! I don't think I would trust a HEAVY and expensive Aero Ektar lens to a friction fit! :eek:

[Monza1966]

It screws in a few threads, but not much at all. It was the only board i could find....
I'll temporarily add foam for it to rest on the rails with and graffers tape to the flange.

i'm upset that it already dropped.....tiny dent now.....thankfully the glass is okay.

[Jim Jones]

Maybe a large hose clamp could tighten it enough to hold the Aero Ektar. Slots cut in the cylindrical section would improve clamping strength.

[domaz]

Be careful what 3d printing material you choose. Some of the cheaper materials aren't very strong and I could see the whole board just cracking apart. Otherwise the idea to use some sort of rubber hose clamp seems like a good "backup" retaining device on that board.

[Michael Cienfuegos]

Whoa! That thing looks scary! I spent the money for a Jo-Lo board for my Speed. It was worth the price to avoid the grief of risking my Aero-Ektar to the dreaded drop test. I'm sure even a simple home brew aluminum board would be preferable to the almost certain failure of that plastic thing.

m

[Pere Casals]

"This model does not require to screw the lens, since it has been designed to fit tight and hold the back of the lens."

YIKES! I don't think I would trust a HEAVY and expensive Aero Ektar lens to a friction fit! :eek:

Printing density and material is important, IMHO if it is ABS and 90% density if can be suitable, if the lens is also secured in the back ...beyond friction.



It is exciting what one can do today with printers... Of course it should be well designed and printed, , as always, a weak part can also be produced.

Even, if one wants extra strong parts one can just print the mold of the part with PE, and filling it with tech resin with a load of cut fiberglass, also perforated metal platings can be placed inside the mold before filling with resin. This allows to make a series of parts, very strong and cheap parts, and fast... Depending on additives parts can be demolded in 15min, and mold can be reused dozens of times.

This an ABS lens board, well reinforced, I made for a Lomo O-2 600mm:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/670/22703108104_9f65934d85_c.jpg


Now I'm also finishing a Sinar to Cambo adapter, I've printed the ABS part yet, and I'm to cut the metal parts with a waterjet to finish it. It will take my beloved Symmar 360mm, this is 2kg. The AE 178 is 1/2 Kg lighter.


169362

169363




BTW, if somebody wants the Sinar to CAMBO files I would send it to him, for free, of course.

[Monza1966]

Whoa! That thing looks scary! I spent the money for a Jo-Lo board for my Speed. It was worth the price to avoid the grief of risking my Aero-Ektar to the dreaded drop test. I'm sure even a simple home brew aluminum board would be preferable to the almost certain failure of that plastic thing.

m

He doesn't make them anymore. I luckily found a guy in Croatia that made a few metal boards years ago, and he had an extra one he sold me.

[Amedeus]

3D printing with any type of plastic is not structural ... proceed at your own risk

3D printing with metals (DMLS) is expensive

Make yourself a board out of aluminum or pay someone to do it for you, not worth breaking any glass over it.

Cheers,

Rudi A.

[Bipin]

I made a mini Technika 6x9 board out of Shapeways' Strong and Flexible plastic which supposedly has good dimensional stability/rigidity despite the name. Relative to height and width, the board is inherently thick, so we'll see what happens. Specifically, I built a recessed board and a flat board. I'll report back with what happens:

https://i.imgur.com/RV2eWRt.png

[Pere Casals]

3D printing with any type of plastic is not structural ... proceed at your own risk

3D printing with metals (DMLS) is expensive

Make yourself a board out of aluminum or pay someone to do it for you, not worth breaking any glass over it.

Cheers,

Rudi A.


You are right, one has to know what he does when 3D printing. This said, a good design and bare ABS printing can deliver lens boards that are able to take 2kg lenses without risk. One of the challenges is to make designs that are not prone to bend from thermal stretching during printing.

Another way is just printing a mold with Poliethylene and filling the mold with a very strong technical resin, than can even include cut fiberglass.

But I agree that a bad design or the wrong plastic can ruin a lens, of course...

[AtlantaTerry]

I made a mini Technika 6x9 board out of Shapeways' Strong and Flexible plastic which supposedly has good dimensional stability/rigidity despite the name. Relative to height and width, the board is inherently thick, so we'll see what happens. Specifically, I built a recessed board and a flat board. I'll report back with what happens:

https://i.imgur.com/RV2eWRt.png

Am I simply not reading your drawing correctly or are you actually missing something? I see where you have an intersection of blue, green and red lines indicating the center of the hole. Right? But where on your drawing do you actually say where that intersection is located? I do not see either an X or Y coordinate.

Since the board has an offset hole, one can not "assume" that the center point is in the center of the board.

Or am I wrong?

[el french]

Am I simply not reading your drawing correctly or are you actually missing something? I see where you have an intersection of blue, green and red lines indicating the center of the hole. Right? But where on your drawing do you actually say where that intersection is located? I do not see either an X or Y coordinate.

Since the board has an offset hole, one can not "assume" that the center point is in the center of the board.

Or am I wrong?
The red, blue, and green lines are the drawing origin (0,0,0). Red is usually X axis. Green is usually Y axis, which leaves Blue to be the Z axis. The drawing looks fully dimensioned to me (Except for the dimension on the X axis to show the top or bottom edge :o )

[AtlantaTerry]

The red, blue, and green lines are the drawing origin (0,0,0). Red is usually X axis. Green is usually Y axis, which leaves Blue to be the Z axis. The drawing looks fully dimensioned to me (Except for the dimension on the X axis to show the top or bottom edge :o )

Yes, I understand the purpose for the red, blue and green lines as being the zero coordinate. What I don't see is where that spot is located on the lens board.

But, after all, it has been over 55 years since I took mechanical drawing classes in high school... :p