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Humbersetfoto
27-May-2017, 08:54
Hello, all! Im new here. I have been a photographer for a few years, a film photographer for about one year, and now im going to build my own darkroom.
I got hold of a complete color enlarger darkroom setup (everything from trays to paper), but i have a few questions:

1. The bulb in my Meopta Opemus 5 head made the head SO hot that i almost could not touch it on the outside after a few minutes of testing. Is that normal? It was a 12v 100w bulb which i broke so i have to replace, but not sure if im to buy the same?

2. Im my new darkroom i have a vent (typical 20x20cm) underneath the roof. This goes straight out in the open air. How do you keep air going out, but stop light from coming in?

3. I have a regular door into this darkroom. Is there any smart, easy, cheap options for lightproofing the door? Either velcro, zipper, maybe some black foam?

4. The head of my enlarger rotates 90 degrees to the side. Is it better to make the enlarger move (for instance on railings) or is it better to have the board where the paper will be taped able to move? I recon that many before me have done this and know of the easiest way?

5. I will probably use this darkroom a few months before i can get running water to this room. What is the best way to still be printing and making it easy? Big container of water?

Sorry for all the questions, but im hoping someone will take the time to answer. Have a nice day folks!

-Svein Olav from Norway, www.humbersetfoto.com-

xkaes
27-May-2017, 09:13
You've got a lot to do, for sure. You will get a lot of good, helpful advise on this board -- mostly in the form of opinions.

To get things started, tiny bulbs might lead you to conclude that it is not hot. You found out the hard way. With tiny bulbs -- except LEDs -- you should never touch them with your hand. The oil from your skin can cause them to explode when they are turned on. Always use a cloth, paper towel or glove(s).

As to moving the enlarger or easel, you will probably find moving the easel to be easier. I have sets of rows of hooks on the ceiling where I hang my easel. Other people have used rails instead of hooks.

Venting? There are lots of options from build it yourself to manufactured. What you need is a fan built into a light-proof vent. I have a dual system. The first stage is a fan in a vent that blows filtered air into the darkroom (to keep dust out). Then I have a second vented fan (placed just behind the chemical sink) that sucks air (and fumes) away from me and out of the darkroom.

For doors, I've painted all the seams matte black and glued strips of black felt all around the seams. Get in the darkroom and stay in complete darkness for 15 minutes. You will be surprised at how many leaks you find.

AND there are LOTS of good books on building darkroom.

Humbersetfoto
27-May-2017, 09:25
Thank you, xkaes, for your quick replay!
I will clarify a few things. I didnt mean i touch the bulb head, i ment the enlarger head. I think the light was on for about 3-5 minutes and the head was so hot i had to turn it off. Just wondering if this is normal (i dont see a fan anywhere, so i guess it has to get hot?), or if i have too strong bulb?

To your replay of the easel, is it not worse to get the easel to be level than if you move the enlarger back and forward on wheels maybe on a table top that you level once? Just asking.

Is light-proof vent something you can buy or build? The fan is cheap and i will install that my self. The problem is the 20-30 cm of free air straight out in my garden.

The tip about matt black and felt is awsome! Cannot believe i didnt think of that. Thank you!

xkaes
27-May-2017, 09:42
I'm not familiar with your enlarger model. Some have fans, most don't. I have no idea what bulb you need.

And I don't know how your enlarger works for murals. Mine turns 90 degrees and my easel hangs straight down due to gravity.

You can buy (new or used) or make yourself lightproof, fanned vents. Check what you can find -- like on EBAY and the Internet -- and see what comes closest to your situation. But remember, if you are blowing out air from your darkroom, it's got to come into the darkroom from somewhere -- and that somewher might mean dusty air.

Luis-F-S
27-May-2017, 09:47
Would suggest that you buy a darkroom book. You can also search this forum there are hundreds of threads in the darkroom forum. Good darkroom books go for next to nothing used. A good book will show how to make a light trap. They will answer your questions and a lot more you haven't even thought of. Good luck!

Ted R
27-May-2017, 09:50
Yes it is normal for the lamp house to get too hot to touch, don't touch it!

To stop light getting in the vent there has to be light traps, sometimes they can be made simply using wood panel, make a hollow rectangular tube with several 90 degree bends in it and paint the inside black. This will not block direct sunlight but it may block diffuse skylight.

Around the door I put black sticky tape about 2-3cm wide

You need a table for the liquid trays, develop, stop, fix, water rinse. Let the prints remain in the rinse while you are printing. After you are finished take the prints to the bathtub for washing. When using modern RC paper (not FB paper) the washing time is quick.

Paper that is old may not give the normal performance but instead give unpredictable results. When you are trying to learn this is a distraction. I recommend the use of new paper and chemicals only.

Have fun :-)

Humbersetfoto
27-May-2017, 12:22
Thanks alot! So helpful.. I was thinking about glueing some triangles inside the vent to block the path of the light, but i wasnt sure if that was enough. But if you say that it might work, i will give it a go.

Luis-F-S
27-May-2017, 16:27
3. I have a regular door into this darkroom. Is there any smart, easy, cheap options for lightproofing the door? Either velcro, zipper, maybe some black foam?

How I've kept light out of three darkrooms. You build a light trap and paint it black! Some felt as needed and a little dirt also helps with the light.
165493

Jim Jones
28-May-2017, 06:37
I've set up several darkrooms over several decades, and half had no running water. This was a minor nuisance, not a big problem. Gallon plastic milk jugs were one handy way to bring water into the darkroom. Waste water was carried out in pails. Water stored inside the darkroom was the right temperature for developing film.

Thalmees
29-May-2017, 12:23
...
2. Im my new darkroom i have a vent (typical 20x20cm) underneath the roof. This goes straight out in the open air. How do you keep air going out, but stop light from coming in?
3. I have a regular door into this darkroom. Is there any smart, easy, cheap options for lightproofing the door? Either velcro, zipper, maybe some black foam?
...
Hello Humbersetfoto,
Welcome to the forum.
I do not feel good for you and others to upload a photo of my darkroom 12" Sinar exhaust kitchen fan:cool:.
It's 20" by 24" protruding inside the darkroom by 12", fixed on the back wall under the ceiling.
Heavy, made of MDF, some lighter wood and sheets of black foam.
Sufficient to upload films even at midday. But, have to open the door when mixing chemicals or when fixer tray has no lid for long time.
The light seal in the door is just a black adhesive compressible leather and felt, plus a blackout curtain.
Was clever enough to design a multi angled 6" tube going through the front wall, outer side ends with 8" tube containing a reversed small kitchen fan. The purpose was to create a positive air pressure:cool:, but FAILED. Still working as a passive air inlet.
Re-inventing things is very interesting process, but I think it's more effective and time/effort efficient to look for the ready made/designed for the specific purpose.
In my next darkroom, definitely will not re-invent the wheel!
Please review the following and more at B&H:
Arkay Light Tight Seal Kit for 48" Darkroom Door/ARSKDRD48
Doran Pro-lab SL/PS Darkroom Exhaust Fan/DOFDRPSLPS.
Darkroom setup equipments are still in the market, and expect to revive again in the next years.
Welcome to the forum again,
Good luck.