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Rael
27-May-2017, 05:35
I moved this to its own thread, hoping to find someone who might know about this particular enlarger. I recently stumbled on one of these called the Omega NE -- supposedly made for the Army, specifically for aerial film. The seller said he thinks it will do 5x7 negatives, but wasn't entirely sure. Just that the glass negative holder was 5x7 and has a movable mask for other sizes. Has a square flat coldlight head and an electronic shutter since the fluorescent lights stayed on all the time. My questions are -- will it work for 5x7 sheet film? Is it worth picking up? Is there a way to put a condenser or color head on it if that fluorescent bulb thing doesn't work on VC film?

metalsmith
27-May-2017, 06:07
Yes, I have an E, it does 5X7 very nicely. Lens cones are hard to find, but easy to make if needed. The glass negative carrier is handy for smaller negatives too. Just need to cut a mask. If this comes with lens and carrier, it should be almost ready to go.

I have not messed with the cold light with a shutter, but EBay has the newer version occasionally. I call it the flying saucer one. Looks like one. It is turned on and off as needed.

Rael
27-May-2017, 06:46
What light source do you use on yours?

Jerry Bodine
27-May-2017, 10:15
I, too, have a 5x7 Omega E6 with the Omegalite (saucer-shaped) lamphouse. It was designed to use a circular fluorescent bulb long before VC papers were on the market and worked very well with graded papers (which are sensitive only to blue light). The folks at http://www.khbphotografix.com/ are very knowledgeable about Omega enlargers and have told me the E6 was designed for military use. All the information I could find about its use with VC papers was negative for this purpose. So I modified it myself to an LED system and tested it with VC paper, using Ilford under-lens filters. The mod was reported here (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?111226-Omega-5x7-E6-LED-Mod). Since then, I've made a glass carrier with a variety of format masks cut from fully exposed/developed sheet film. The LEDs run very cool and are rapid start/stop.

metalsmith
27-May-2017, 11:28
Rael, my E6 is a condenser unit.

Rael
27-May-2017, 11:59
This is with the light on - you can see it's flat and square. Its about two hours away so I'm just trying to figure out what it's worth before I make the trip.

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metalsmith
27-May-2017, 14:01
I paid $200.00 for mine with no lens cone or lens. Had to drive 4 hours one way. Took the wife, made a day of it.

Kevin

Rael
29-May-2017, 13:31
Well...I bought it. I am thinking I'm going to need to convert this head to LED or something, because these bulbs are blue. Like sky blue. The reference manual mentions bromide paper, so I guess that's why. Any thoughts about whether I could replace these bulbs with something more full spectrum? Or would that just be a waste of time with modern papers? 165563165564165565165566

Jerry Bodine
29-May-2017, 14:49
Since you already have a lens of proper focal length for 5x7 and a glass negative carrier, it's certainly worth the effort to design a head with the correct color spectrum for VC papers. I use Ilford under-lens filters with my LED system, which is easier than trying to make a head from scratch that accepts filters above the negative. Ilford filters are designed to be used with an incandescent light source (~2800K), but my LEDs are about 7500K and test out OK so it seems to be not too critical; there's probably some effect on spacing between the characteristic curves of the various grades. The simplest mod would be to stick with incandescent bulbs; otherwise, you'd need to do some research on such variables as LED type, output, spectrum, driver, etc. Heat generated by incandescents shouldn't be a problem since you have a glass carrier. Whichever road you go down, you'd need to pay attention to evenness of illumination of output, adequate diffusion, and light leaks. One other thing comes to mind: The pic of your enlarger appears to have a tall column, so I'm wondering if it has a power lift mechanism to raise the head OR a power focus mechanism. If it doesn't have these, it may be limited by how high you can reach for big enlargements when doing it manually. My enlarger has a tall column and when my power focus failed I couldn't reach high enough to focus manually while viewing through the grain focuser on the baseboard. I had to design a long-handled gripper for the focus knob, which works well (I can post pics if you need them).

Rael
29-May-2017, 15:11
It's interesting that it mentions incandescent lamp replacements but I've never seen incandescent lamps that had the prong ends like these fluorescent lamps that are in there now. I'll have to google that to see if they still exist. I've seen replacement bulbs for $20 each, but not sure if those are exact blue replacements or whether they are something closer to the correct needed spectrum.

What does your LED system look like? As for the height, it's definitely tall, but not so tall I won't be able to reach, as least so far. Looks like with this lens the max size is 3X.

Jerry Bodine
29-May-2017, 22:19
What does your LED system look like? As for the height, it's definitely tall, but not so tall I won't be able to reach, as least so far. Looks like with this lens the max size is 3X.

Unfortunately I didn't make pics during the mod. All the pics I have were posted in the thread I linked in post #4. The mod, as described in that thread, amounted to 12 LEDs mounted on the bottom of a finned aluminum plate in a 3x4 arrangement with two diffuser sheets below it. The finned part was overkill for heat dissipation (was not really necessary. The use of two diffusers was also overkill, but one of them can be easily removed to gain about one stop of output if necessary for large prints. The details of the mod are fairly well described in the text of that thread.

Rael
30-May-2017, 03:22
Ah, thank you for pointing that out. I was reading and replying on my phone, and I missed your link. I think I might be able to do something similar - I don't have the saucer but I do have a wood shop. Thanks for the tips.

Luis-F-S
30-May-2017, 05:54
Well...I bought it. I am thinking I'm going to need to convert this head to LED or something, because these bulbs are blue.

Aristo recommended using a 40CC Yellow filter for use with VC papers and their older blue bulbs. You can always bry that before you spend the effort for an LED head. If you do keep the Coldlight head, you may want to add a compensating timer with a sensor. Are those bulbs even still available? Good luck. L

Rael
30-May-2017, 05:58
Aristo recommended using a 40CC Yellow filter for use with VC papers and their older blue bulbs. You can always try that before you spend the effort for an LED head. If you do keep the Coldlight head, you may want to add a compensating timer with a sensor. Are those bulbs even still available? Good luck. L

I have a set of replacement bulbs. From what I can tell, the size bulb might still exist, but it's going to be something other than "blue" which is what these are stamped. There is an under the lens electronic shutter and the bulbs just stay on all the time. The documentation mentions swapping them for 25w incandescent, but I have no idea what that would mean since the fixture inside is clearly for fluorescent bulbs only. Since the opal glass is still there, I may try building a wooden box to fit an LED light source if I can find good plans -- and that way maybe I can build in a filter tray as well to avoid going under-lens.

Luis-F-S
30-May-2017, 06:03
You can also find a used Aristo 5x7 or the correct size head. Airsto has a lot of their info in their archives and are accessible on line. They're pretty much indestructible. I may even have an extra one I can send you to try out. It's pretty old, but still works! If you use a coldlight head, I would consider putting a sensor and using either a Metrolux or a Zone VI sensor. L

Eric Biggerstaff
30-May-2017, 06:20
The E series enlargers are great but not very numerous so parts can be a challenge. My LED head was made for me by Modern Enlarger Lamps and is terrific but is no longer available. I believe "metalsmith" purchased my second one and if so, I am happy to know it is working well for him (super nice person by the way). There are a couple of threads on home built LED heads that would likely be a good option.

Rael
30-May-2017, 07:32
You can also find a used Aristo 5x7 or the correct size head. Airsto has a lot of their info in their archives and are accessible on line. They're pretty much indestructible. I may even have an extra one I can send you to try out. It's pretty old, but still works! If you use a coldlight head, I would consider putting a sensor and using either a Metrolux or a Zone VI sensor. L

I assume that would require a yellow filter too? I didn't think you could get Aristo bulbs like the V54 any longer.

Luis-F-S
30-May-2017, 09:57
You should still be able to purchase Aristo bulbs directly from the manufacturer:

http://www.light-sources.com/solutions/specialty-fluorescent/products/aristo/aristo-replacement-lamps/page/2/

Not cheap, but at least available. These should all be the newer V54 bulbs. If using the older W45 bulbs, just add a CC40Y filter to it!

If you can't find 40 Y, you can always use a CC30&Y & CC15Y:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/118241-REG/Rosco_RS4530_4530_Filter_Yellow.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/118240-REG/Rosco_RS4515_4515_Filter_Yellow.html
Close enough! L

Rael
30-May-2017, 11:19
You should still be able to purchase Aristo bulbs directly from the manufacturer:

http://www.light-sources.com/solutions/specialty-fluorescent/products/aristo/aristo-replacement-lamps/page/2/

Not cheap, but at least available. These should all be the newer V54 bulbs. If using the older W45 bulbs, just add a CC40Y filter to it!

If you can't find 40 Y, you can always use a CC30&Y & CC15Y:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/118241-REG/Rosco_RS4530_4530_Filter_Yellow.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/118240-REG/Rosco_RS4515_4515_Filter_Yellow.html
Close enough! L

Thanks. I emailed them a while back about an Aristo replacement for my D2 cold head but never got a response. One thing I was thinking might work (If I could figure out how to get the correct color temp) was to bypass the ballast and put something like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYZM-6Pack-5W-12-inch-T5-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-Fluorescent-Replace-for-F8T5-CW-/331852303882?)into the original head. I also saw "daylight" and "warm" versions of fluorescent tubes that will fit.

Luis-F-S
30-May-2017, 11:41
I think calling works better. I'd try LCD Lighting in Orange CT, 203-795-1520. There is also more infor on the Forum, Search for Aristo.

dsphotog
5-Jun-2017, 13:27
You could try it out, by using graded paper.

ic-racer
5-Jun-2017, 14:10
... put something like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/WYZM-6Pack-5W-12-inch-T5-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb-Fluorescent-Replace-for-F8T5-CW-/331852303882?)into the original head.

Yes, yes, yes. Looks like the perfect solution.

Rael
5-Jun-2017, 17:31
You could try it out, by using graded paper.

Grade 2 or 3? I wasn't sure since it was made for Bromide paper, whatever that is...I read a little about it, but only enough to know you can't get it anymore.

dsphotog
6-Jun-2017, 11:43
Grade 3 is considered to be for normal contrast negatives.domain makes Fomabrom, bromide paper.
I think Ilford gallery is bromide also.

dsphotog
6-Jun-2017, 11:45
Stupid auto spell... foma, not domain.

Rael
6-Jun-2017, 12:14
Interesting! I may have to pick some of that paper up, just for fun. I've already got the LED parts, (thanks to Jerry Bodine's shopping list, and his very much appreciated assistance) and I'm going to start building on it tonight. I've read some conflicting info about which LEDs to use, temperature-wise, but they worked for him, and though they're not an exact match, I'm hoping the similar ones I've purchased will work for me.