Remove hardware from wood

[rkamarowski]

I'm not sure how to remove this hardware. Any help would be appreciated.

Bob K.163800163801

[Jon Shiu]

I would think you have to drill it out.

Jon

[rkamarowski]

Ugh... Not easy to get at. I'm not familiar with the finer points of drilling out something like this. How big should the bit be? How deep do I need to drill?

[Ron Stowell]

Picture #2 is the head of a rivet, under the head of the rivet is a washer and a spacer. You will have to grind off the rivet and probably replace the washer in the process. This whole fastener can be replaced with a screw with a cap head. The new screw will not be brass. I have rebuilt three Ansco 5x7 and a 8x10. You are in for a long slow process.

[jim10219]

The bit should be slightly bigger than that dimpled area on the inside disk. You drill until you've punched a hole through the metal and the back plate is separated from the shaft. If, you drill past the thickness of that back plate and all you see is metal, then use a bigger bit. It's usually best to start off with too small of a bit and work your way up. If nothing else, that small hole you just drilled will act as a pilot hole for the bigger bit.

The hard part will be getting a drill inside the frame to drill that rivet out.

[el french]

The main question is whether or not you want to keep or reuse the hardware. If you don't need the hardware, then (carefully) use a small hand grinder (Dremel) to cut the hardware free. Otherwise, use the drilling method. I'd start with a drill about the size of the dimple in the second photo.

p.s. Have you tried unscrewing the piece shown in the second photo?

p.s.p.s. Just do what Ron said ;)

[John Kasaian]

Do you really have to remove it?

From the pictures I'd guess the latch pin was peened on from underneath?
Maybe go with a bit half the diameter of the expanded metal and s-l-o-w-l-y drill but don't drill into the wood underneath, use a sightly larger bit if that happens, until it no longer rivets that washer in place, then gently tap out the pin?

[rkamarowski]

Hi Ron.

Yes, it's an Agfa 5x7. You must be (painfully) familiar to recognize it :) So do you recommend drilling it out as others have mentioned?

[R.K]

I don't think the drilling is the best choice. A 100% you will be of the center and finally will damage the wood. If I would do it, I would use only a hand file and file the rivet head off. This will take maybe a few minutes longer but much accurate than any electric tools.

[Ron Stowell]

Hi Ron.

Yes, it's an Agfa 5x7. You must be (painfully) familiar to recognize it :) So do you recommend drilling it out as others have mentioned?

If you have a right angle drill and you can get clearance between the sides, then drill it. I didn't have a right angle drill that would give me clearance, so I used a Dremel moto tool with a grinder bit.
Lowes had replacement cap screws ( not brass).
Other suppliers MacMaster Carr ( expensive, but they have everything)
Any other questions let know.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Dremel right-angle with drill or grinder head.
If you are as economically strapped as I am,
a file stroked across the inside until it is weak,
then knock it out with a center punch.
.

[RichardRitter]

So after you drill it out. When you put it back together how do you hold it in place?

[Jac@stafford.net]

So after you drill it out. When you put it back together how do you hold it in place?

An excellent question. Does the OP want to replace the original fastener? Will he accept a compromise that works but looks different? So many early fasteners have become obsolete for good reasons.

Let's wait for his answer.
.

[John Kasaian]

I'd leave it and work around it. Judicious use of masking tape, improvised tools and lots of time(patience) should provide you with the desired results.

[rkamarowski]

To replace the fastener I would accept a compromise. I just want to hold it in place. Original look would be great, but not necessary.

[rkamarowski]

I had no idea there were so many different Dremels... 3000 series, 4000 series, 7700 series... Any recommendations? It's obviously nothing I've needed in the past, so one that would get me through this build would be fine.

[Ron Stowell]

To replace the fastener I would accept a compromise. I just want to hold it in place. Original look would be great, but not necessary.

What you are looking for is a binding barrel screw, comes in stainless, aluminum and Brass available through McMaster- Carr
good luck

[rkamarowski]

Success! Thank you everyone. What was life like before a Dremel? :)

[rkamarowski]

163878163879163880

I'm trying to detach the knob in the pictures above. I started to just unscrew it, but it's becoming very difficult and I didn't want to force anything. How can I remove this piece?

[John Kasaian]

I had no idea there were so many different Dremels... 3000 series, 4000 series, 7700 series... Any recommendations? It's obviously nothing I've needed in the past, so one that would get me through this build would be fine.

Here you go---
http://selector.dremel.com/tools

Basic differences are rpm's and amps.

Wire brushes won't hold up at higher rpms so look for a variable speed so you can slow it down.
OTOH, I'm of the opinion that with power tools, the more amps the merrier.

[Jac@stafford.net]

163878163879163880

I'm trying to detach the knob in the pictures above. I started to just unscrew it, but it's becoming very difficult and I didn't want to force anything. How can I remove this piece?

I would drill the dimple in the center of the knob