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John Kasaian
15-Jan-2017, 21:49
Anyone here shoot with it?
Opinions? Suggestions?

I'm curious to see how this film will handle Sierra granite.

Eric Woodbury
15-Jan-2017, 22:06
JK

I've recently started using it. I have a bunch of it in the darkroom waiting to be souped. I took a little in the summer too. I'll see if can get a scan.

I rate it at about 64 ASA, but nothing tested or official. I've been developing normal to normal +2 in XTOL 1:1 (Legacy version). It builds contrast quickly.

LabRat
15-Jan-2017, 22:44
Ortho films I have used will build up contrast quickly... Good to think "spectrally" when using them...

The sky is blue and bright, so that will build the highest density (like the 19th century photos), as well as areas that are illuminated by skylight...

The things that don't build up density quickly are objects that are more towards the red end of the spectrum that don't get so much light...

Look at the color of the rocks, tree bark, ground etc and expect them to stay darker if redder, and other stuff more green/blue might build more density faster, so the choice of ortho might be based on conditions where you normally shoot (and the color environment)...

Testing, testing, testing...

Steve K

Rick A
16-Jan-2017, 06:59
Check out mid to late 19th century western landscape photos if you want to see how true orthochromatic emulsions render the scenes. I found this for you to check out:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2149899/The-American-West-youve-seen-Amazing-19th-century-pictures-landscape-chartered-time.html

John Kasaian
16-Jan-2017, 07:55
Check out mid to late 19th century western landscape photos if you want to see how true orthochromatic emulsions render the scenes. I found this for you to check out:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2149899/The-American-West-youve-seen-Amazing-19th-century-pictures-landscape-chartered-time.html

Cool photos, thanks!
I'll be developing by inspection under a red safe light like I did with ORT-25 back when it was available, so I'm hoping density won't be an issue.
The subjects I'm contemplating shouldn't have any sky in the scene.
I've used D-76 50/50 with distilled water to soup Ort-25 so that's probably going to be where I'll start with the Ilford.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Daniel Unkefer
16-Jan-2017, 08:14
I have used it quite a bit but not recently, and I always liked the results. Have some frozen in the deep freeze.

interneg
16-Jan-2017, 09:29
It's pretty similar to FP4+ sans red sensitivity in my experience. I've shot a few sheets in camera here and there (mainly use it for masking and other technical purposes) over the last year - more UV, the more ortho the look. It can look surprisingly 'normal' if it's not super sunny. Will try & dig out a few Hasselblad/ Imacon scans I made. Don't use anything less than a deep red (906 from Ilford) safelight - even a 1A might not be enough. I like it a lot, need to shoot more with it & get times & EI's worked out for day-to-day use.

EdWorkman
16-Jan-2017, 09:39
Orthochromatic film is green sensitive [in addition to blue]
Early films, such as used by Sullivan, etc, were color blind, meaning response to blue light [only]
The response of ortho film may be slightly modified by yellow 'ray screens'
[which brings to mind the Martian tales of Edgar Rice Burroughs and the 'eight Barsoomian ray]
Graduated ray screens were used to tame skies to some degree
The 1904 Kodak catalog mentions orthochromatic sensitivity, in blurb for its new NC [non curling] film.
Blue sensitive film continued for use for a decade or two after- it was cheaper, just as plates were cheaper than the easier to use roll films and pack films.

Now then, I wonder if there is an available lith film which is really color blind, so that red subjects are rendered black.
[without a red filter factor of 27 stops]
I'm thinking a Pyro developer could tame the contrast.

Doremus Scudder
16-Jan-2017, 09:40
Check out mid to late 19th century western landscape photos if you want to see how true orthochromatic emulsions render the scenes. I found this for you to check out:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2149899/The-American-West-youve-seen-Amazing-19th-century-pictures-landscape-chartered-time.html

Timothy O'Sullivan's wet plates were blue-sensitive, i.e., monochromatic. Orthochromatic film is sensitive to blue and green and will render green objects (e.g., foliage) a lot lighter than a blue-sensitive emulsion will. Shadows are gratifyingly open; blue skies will be quite light.

Best,

Doremus

John Kasaian
16-Jan-2017, 09:49
That's good to know about greens appearing lighter, as foliage will definitely be in some of the shots. Thanks!

EdWorkman
16-Jan-2017, 10:17
oopps and duuuuuh
a red filter would , besides being useless, not let the blue light pass
And I thought I was doing well

russyoung
29-Jan-2017, 12:54
I shot through a 4x5 box about a decade ago and totally agree with INTERNEG that it seemed like regular film minus red sensitivity. It provided a little better tonal separation in tree leaves but I saw no sign of extraordinary sensitivity to blue or UV. Ilford provides a spectral sensitivity curve in the relevant data sheet: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/webfiles/2011427119221450.pdf

Russ