Nikkor EL-Old versus New

[Patrick Thrush]

A short time ago, I posted a question regarding mount difficulties for the older, non-A series Nikkor EL 150mm lens with the 53mm mount. Right now, there seems to be a slump in the prices for both the old and new type used Nikkors, so I have picked up a cherry newer lens with the 39mm mount.

I note several differences between the two. The newer lens has a 39mm front front and a 33mm rear element. The older one is 36mm X 38mm, respectively. My work right now is strictly b/w, and I use a condensor, variable diffusion colorhead, and coldlight depending upon the vision that I have for paper selection and final print. A quick test has shown no real difference between these lenses with a fixed contrast paper. I cannot speak yet to larger print sizes such as 11x14" and 16x20". What about edge performance and falloff?

Color may be another story, and it will be some time before I dabble in that. Does anyone have any opinion about the differences in performance between these two lenses? Why was the design of the elements changed, and to what benefit?

[Gem Singer]

Hi Patrick,

I don't believe that Nikon has changed the actual design of the elements. The older and the newer versions both use 6 elements in 4 groups. They seem to have only changed the design if the lens barrel and mount, making it more contemporary in styling, and as you have discovered, more practical to mount and operate. The Nikkor 150EL has more than adequate coverage for 4X5 negatives. There should be no concern about edge performance or falloff with either the older or the newer models.

[Mark Sampson]

We have both old and new 150mm EL-Nikkors at work, and I have never been able to discern a performance difference, in color or b/w. I thought enough of these lenses that when I equipped my home darkroo, that was the lens I bought.

[Patrick Thrush]

Thanks guys. I think that it is clear that I'm keeping both lenses. The newer one for the Durst 1200, and the older for the Beseler. Someone made a great suggestion in another thread involving Teflon pipe tape and Epoxy. Based on that, I took a 50mm Beseler board and enlarged the hole to about 55mm. Pipe tape around the barrel threads and a layer on the back surface of the lens barrel. Don't forget to cover the rear element... A diasaster was narrowly averted by doing so. Center the lensboard, and spoon in the epoxy (I used JB Weld), building it up to the top of the lens threads. When hardened (probably best to wait 24 hours) unscrew, clean away the fluttery tape that is not adhered to the epoxy, and Voila! a custom, threaded 53mm lensboard. I am remembering now why I was never able to do large format when I was younger: Space, time, money, patience. Especially the patience...

[David Van Gosen]

Next time around, you can use the JB Kwik product. Half as strong, but that's still 1800 psi. It sets up solid in four hours. Wish I'd heard about it sooner.