Beseler Enlarger Differences: M, MX, MXT

[neil poulsen]

What are the differences in the chassis (only) between Beseler enlarger models "M", "MX", and "MXT"?

Please assume that the chassis is black.

I'm asking because I've adapted a Beseler 45s to my Zone VI enlarger, and I may need a backup chassis sometime.

[Doremus Scudder]

Hi Neil,

The older Beseler M chassis has the support rods in front of the main geared channel frame. It also lacks the full-length frame rails for the baseboard; the two-piece baseboard itself rests on the support surface.

The MX is a sturdier chassis with support rods behind the main chassis frame and full-length channel rails for the two-piece baseboard. These bottom rails support the enlarger and the front piece of the baseboard slides in and out easily after the screws are removed.

I believe the T designation stands for "Tall" and therefore the MXT is taller, allowing a greater degree of enlargement.

FWIW, here's the Beseler code from a 1958 brochure:

45: accepts negatives up to 4" x5" (from 8mm)
M-Motor: automatic electric motor raises and lowers lamphouse
C-Colorhead: Bescolor Colorhead accepts color filter material between condensers
R-Resistrol: Resistrol unit varies voltage entering enlarger lamp - up to maximum line voltage
X-Rear Support Truss: Extra reinforcement rear baseboard extension
AF-Automatic Focusing
B-Beslite: Lamphouse with cold cathode grid light source instead of condensers
AG-Beseler-Agfa Colorhead

The "T" designation is obviously later than this brochure.

Below is the illustration of the M and MX chassis from the same brochure.

Best,

Doremus

[Graham Patterson]

I thought the 'T' designation was for models equipped to take the lens turret - hence that arc of metal just above the inside of the lens mount. That would make all 'T' also 'MX'. I'm basing this off of an MXT manual, and comparison of my M (front bracing, grey), and MXT. The columns do have some differences, though a major height difference does not seem to be one of them.

[Kevin Crisp]

The 45M works fine, but those forward mounted support rods can interfere with large easels.

[neil poulsen]

I think that 45M works. For example, I could remove the front support rods and add ample support from behind the enlarger.

Thanks much for the information.

[Kevin Crisp]

The later models are so cheap on craigslist these days, often seen for $100 to $150 I'm not sure adapting one is worth it. But you might!

[MrFujicaman]

I wonder what the story on the "H" model 4X5 enlargers is? Can't figure out what the H would stand for.

[Doremus Scudder]

I thought the 'T' designation was for models equipped to take the lens turret - hence that arc of metal just above the inside of the lens mount. That would make all 'T' also 'MX'. I'm basing this off of an MXT manual, and comparison of my M (front bracing, grey), and MXT. The columns do have some differences, though a major height difference does not seem to be one of them.

Graham,

That makes perfect sense. I was speculating about the "T" designation in my earlier post. If there is a different lens mount to accommodate the turret, then that explains the "T". I would imagine then, that all newer enlargers in that series would be "MXT"s.

Best,

Doremus

[Jim Noel]

I wonder what the story on the "H" model 4X5 enlargers is? Can't figure out what the H would stand for.

"H" stands for hand - this model has no motor and must be raised and lowered , manually. In addition, the base is the same as the "23", not the other 4x5's.

[MrFujicaman]

"H" stands for hand - this model has no motor and must be raised and lowered , manually. In addition, the base is the same as the "23", not the other 4x5's.

Okay, that would make sense. Then it stands to reason that it would use the same elevating crank and gears as a 23C.

[donkee]

The later models are so cheap on craigslist these days, often seen for $100 to $150 I'm not sure adapting one is worth it. But you might!

I picked up my 45MC about 2 years ago from a thrift store with 3 lens boards and i believe 3 negative carriers for $40 if I remember right. Had a Beselar 50mm lens too.

Last week I picked up a second, just the enlarger, for $30. It is a 45MCRX. I'll be switching to this enlarger due to the better support and larger board.

There are deals to be had just keep looking for them on CL.

[Duolab123]

Yes indeed, I am up to 4 Beselers, no make that 5. 3 are the turret model, the others, wait I mean 6 total 3 turrets and 3 with the tapered bellows. 2 were given to me. One a hip blue one I bought new in 1973. THE three nice newer ones came with color heads one had a 150mm Rodagon, condenser heads carriers I have 3 or 4 turrets I don't think I have 600 bucks in all of them except for that good old blue one. I payed 400 bucks new when Gold was $60 an ounce. I Have two set up one with color head the other with a Zone VI VC head that I haven't had time to play with. GET them while you can this stuff is getting scrapped.
Best Mike

[donkee]

I picked up my 45MC about 2 years ago from a thrift store with 3 lens boards and i believe 3 negative carriers for $40 if I remember right. Had a Beselar 50mm lens too.

Last week I picked up a second, just the enlarger, for $30. It is a 45MCRX. I'll be switching to this enlarger due to the better support and larger board.

There are deals to be had just keep looking for them on CL.

And I just found another, it is a 45mxt with dichro 45s head for $50. Always wanted a color head even though I don't do color any longer. :-)

[Duolab123]

And I just found another, it is a 45mxt with dichro 45s head for $50. Always wanted a color head even though I don't do color any longer. :-)

Those colorheads make awesome variable contrast heads, you should be able to find a chart online Ansel had a table in his book. IF you use both yellow and magenta together same time you achieve same neutral density. No exposure time changes when you change grades.

One warning some of the older 45s heads used an optical isolator, it's marked iso1 on the circuit board. YOU can get unpredictable delays when you switch on the lamp it can be fixed in 5 minutes if you can solder and find one of the little buggers.

Best Mike

[dsphotog]

Mike, can you elaborate on the part needed for the 45S head, mine is giving the erratic lamp delay .
Thanks

[neil poulsen]

Those colorheads make awesome variable contrast heads, you should be able to find a chart online Ansel had a table in his book. IF you use both yellow and magenta together same time you achieve same neutral density. No exposure time changes when you change grades.

One warning some of the older 45s heads used an optical isolator, it's marked iso1 on the circuit board. YOU can get unpredictable delays when you switch on the lamp it can be fixed in 5 minutes if you can solder and find one of the little buggers.

Best Mike

I had this problem with mine. Very disconcerting. I gather that it's a result of a feedback mechanism to regulate light going haywire. (Not sure.) I "fixed" it by completely bypassing all the electronics, connecting the lamp itself directly to AC (with a rectifier in the circuit), and installing a Zone VI compensating enlarging timer sensor (connected to my Zone VI timer) in the head to maintain consistent exposure.

It's kind of funny. After this modification, all the circuitry and electornics in the head did nothing more than run the fan. I use the 45s as a VC head, and it works really well.

[Duolab123]

Mike, can you elaborate on the part needed for the 45S head, mine is giving the erratic lamp delay .
Thanks

Hi DS,

I had to go into my back up darkroom annex B, started to panic when I couldn't find my parts:) OK here's the straight dope. I called Beseler about 20 years ago got a hold of some fellow who knew the secret. This happens to all the pre-modern 45s heads. It's a small metal can on the circuit board.BOARD IS MARKED ISO 2, on the board NOT ISO 1 as I stated earlier. The original part is a VACTEC 8646 VACTROL VTL9B8 opto-isolator. It has 4 leads on the bottom of a aluminum metal can .The can is about the size of a gumdrop 1/2 inch in diameter. I have fixed four separate heads with this problem and everytime replacing this single component fixed the delay. If you can solder it takes about an hour to work up the courage, about 10 minutes to get the circuit board out and about 2 minutes to solder and replace the component, it only will go in one way so you can screw it up. When Beseler did repairs on these heads sometimes they used a different component, (i.e. I fixed one that, Beseler fixed in 1989) but if it's original it will be a little metal can. IT IS THE ONLY SPOT ON THE BOARD MARKED ISO 2. Don't need to touch anything else.
It's the cure, without it the head is useless. I have one New head (less than ten years old) totally modern none of this stuff. Everyone of the older heads I had (4) failed. I scraped out one kept the others for back ups and because obviously I have too much stuff.
Best Mike

These things are OBSOLETE, I couldn't find a modern replacement on my own. My electronics skill is from a 8th grade class on how to build an FM radio. I googled until I found a guy on Long Island who sold this kind of stuff. It's out there, I had to pay his price and have a couple left to last me the rest of my life. I think you should be able to find one or a substitute. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[donkee]

I finished cleaning and adjusting the last 45 I picked up but had the motor flame out when testing. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement motor that doesn't cost 500 bones? Thinking I might just pull it all and put a crank on it. Everything else is in good shape.

One of the hazards of buying used gear.

[Duolab123]

I finished cleaning and adjusting the last 45 I picked up but had the motor flame out when testing. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement motor that doesn't cost 500 bones? Thinking I might just pull it all and put a crank on it. Everything else is in good shape.

One of the hazards of buying used gear.

Did it burn out? If the fine focusing knob shaft gets bent it binds and the motor stalls. If you can't turn the fine focus knob check, if shaft is bent you can usually bend it straight enough with a crescent wrench.

[donkee]

Did it burn out? If the fine focusing knob shaft gets bent it binds and the motor stalls. If you can't turn the fine focus knob check, if shaft is bent you can usually bend it straight enough with a crescent wrench.

Oh yeah it burned, big ole flame shot out of it. Everything else is working nicely. The knob spins freely with no binding that is why I started thinking that maybe just slapping a crank on it would be the way to go.

[Peter Gomena]

PM me, I have a couple of these I salvaged. I work for a photo non-profit, won't charge you much.

[donkee]

PM me, I have a couple of these I salvaged. I work for a photo non-profit, won't charge you much.

Will do! Thanks!