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Drew Bedo
19-Sep-2016, 05:09
There is a thread in the Cameras and Equipment forum that started out discussing lens boards, but has morphed into am interesting discussion of 3-D printing.

Does anyone here do any 3=D printing to create parts or even re-creat missing or damaged parts for vintage equipment?

DrTang
19-Sep-2016, 09:08
ya know..I searched for 3D printers once.. and now a banner ad comes up everywhere I go talking about their 300 dollar 3D printer -
300 bucks! - so I been racking my brain to come up with something..anything I could use it for to justify buying a new toy

I got nothing

barnacle
19-Sep-2016, 09:29
I'd love to find a decent inexpensive 3-d print house in the UK for hobbyist use. The mech design guys at work use SLA and SLS printing for proofing parts before we make the plastic moulds, but they're both expensive and not hugely precise. Even the self-supporting sintered powder prints can droop a little, though it's good enough for prototypes. As an example, a recent build - two halves of an interlocking hollow ring about six inches across and somewhat under an inch in thickness was around three-four hundred quid for a single copy.

Which is why my home-built cameras are hand made wood and brass...

Neil

Jockos
19-Sep-2016, 10:13
I've made a lens (!) for a speed graphic, and today I assembled my Industar 37 with Packard with the help of 3D printed parts. I don't own a printer, I just do the designs and pay someone on 3dhubs.com to print them..

Link to thread:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?133469-Mounting-an-Industar-37-with-Packard-shutter-to-a-Szabad-%283D-printing%29&p=1352163

IanG
19-Sep-2016, 10:29
There's a post by a UK member who had an MPP WA lens board made recently by 3D printing and the cost was quite reasonable. The search facility here won't pull it up but it's in the last 3 weeks.

Ian

OeT
19-Sep-2016, 10:41
Here are some of my photography related designs
All can be downloaded from my thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/oet/designs

Ground glass holder
155192

Rittreck 5x7 lens board
155193
155194

Nikkor 210mm f5.6 lens hood
155195

OeT
19-Sep-2016, 10:47
Some more

Rittreck 5x7 body cap
155196
155199

Lens caps for Mamiya RB67
155197

Grip fore the Travelwide 45
155198

Two23
19-Sep-2016, 16:43
Does anyone here do any 3=D printing to create parts or even re-creat missing or damaged parts for vintage equipment?


That's what I'd like to know! I have had duplicate parts machined at a specialty shop and it was pretty expensive. I have a couple of other metal parts I'd like duplicated to complete a couple of cool lenses I have. And, wouldn't it be cool if a "printer" could make glass lenses so we could make use of those old brass tubes that come available from time to time?


Kent in SD

Amfooty
19-Sep-2016, 16:54
A friend of mine, Drew Nikonowicz, 3d printed a whole 4x5, save for the bellows and 80-20 monorail. http://www.donttakepictures.com/dtp-blog/2015/4/24/some-assembly-required-drew-nikonowicz . While it's missing a few movements compared to other monorails, it's still a really cool project.

Leigh
19-Sep-2016, 17:46
You'll find a lot of info in the Additive Manufacturing (3D Printing) forum at PracticalMachinist.com
That's the largest machining-oriented site on the web, with over 10 million unique visitors per year.
It's populated mostly by professionals in the manufacturing and machining industries, so lots of expertise.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-new/

Generally speaking, 3D printed objects are not strong.
There are machines that print metal and can make stronger parts, if you want ($$$).

- Leigh

Randy Moe
19-Sep-2016, 20:32
An hour ago my young neighbor, 23, told me he is setting up 3D Printing and more. He wanted my help on signage.

I see no reason to discourage him.

I also advised him on how to call it Art.

He is in an all Artist building. :)

williaty
19-Sep-2016, 23:13
Today, I started shooting with some 3D printed adapters that allow me to run 135 film in pretty much any 120/220 camera. I figure if I'm going to be shooting panos, I might as well spend less on film, developer, and fixer than shooting 4x5 or 120/220 and cropping it down to 135 width anyway. It's going to take some practice to learn to keep image I'm interested in away from the sprocket holes though.

B.S.Kumar
20-Sep-2016, 00:25
You could always print a mask to show you exactly what you'll get on the film.

Kumar

Jody_S
20-Sep-2016, 20:02
I'm fascinated by the whole thing, if I weren't insanely busy with work I would have bought one of the cheap ones to play with already. I probably will before work tapers off for the winter. I'm thinking of starting with a universal iris, it seems fairly easy to design (I used to teach AutoCAD).

domaz
21-Sep-2016, 15:50
Today, I started shooting with some 3D printed adapters that allow me to run 135 film in pretty much any 120/220 camera. I figure if I'm going to be shooting panos, I might as well spend less on film, developer, and fixer than shooting 4x5 or 120/220 and cropping it down to 135 width anyway. It's going to take some practice to learn to keep image I'm interested in away from the sprocket holes though.

I haven't had great luck with 3d printed adapters for rollfilm. For instance, it's great in theory to be print an adapter that converts an older folder that was a larger obsolete rollfilm size to 120, but in practice they tend to break. Maybe if I sprung for a metal adapter they wouldn't break on me all the time but metal = $$$

Jason Greenberg Motamedi
21-Sep-2016, 16:16
A few years back I used a 3D printer to make a few dozen bases for the Sinar Norma levels. I also made a few plate reduction adapters--for example, so I could slip a whole plate into a 8x10 plate holder. Both worked very well in the end, but took a few iterations for me to get the design right.

williaty
21-Sep-2016, 17:45
I haven't had great luck with 3d printed adapters for rollfilm. For instance, it's great in theory to be print an adapter that converts an older folder that was a larger obsolete rollfilm size to 120, but in practice they tend to break. Maybe if I sprung for a metal adapter they wouldn't break on me all the time but metal = $$$

Time will tell how they hold up, but these are promising. There's no small details or thin places in this set of adapters. They're just big, chunky cylinders which is good for durability. I figure if I use them enough to wear them out, I'll move up to metal ones.

JChrome
26-Sep-2016, 20:11
I printed my own body to make a 6x12 camera. I see a lot of guys talking about the quality of 3D printed plastics but for SLS I've found them to be phenomenal and very precise.

https://stillthrill.com/2016/09/18/lessons-in-3d-printing-your-own-camera/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rakkir
29-Sep-2016, 15:18
i once 3d printed a 620 film spool because i couldn't find a second one for my brownie 620 jr. i tried printing it standing up but it fell over and was useless, so i printed it laying down, it came out with sort of triangular ends. i tried to use it as a take-up spool, the PLA plastic was so soft that the winder striped the end after 4 shots.
also it wasn't lightproof so i would have had to unload the camera in the dark.