View Full Version : Century 9A Restoration
Hi all please follow me as I journey through restoring a piece of art and hopefully at the end that is what I will be doing with it, producing art!
I have a bit of a passion for wet plate so that is mainly what I will be using it for. I am a carpenter by trade and a bit of a wood work nut so a lot of the processes will be familiar to me but I am well out of practice having spent most of my life in construction management.
A friend of mine from interstate sent me a message telling me of an "old camera" sitting in a second hand store in a small rural town and asked if I was interested, he had sent me a couple of pics so a quick phone call later I am the proud owner of, well to be honest I didn't know what.
A quick post on here and someone pointed me in the right direction and I identified it as a studio camera but no idea what model or size, I just had to wait for it to turn up in Victoria.
this is what I was sent from my friend initially. They even had the description wrong!
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Film-Cameras/i-f4N3pTG/0/M/IMG_1204-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Film-Cameras/i-Dt8TSbZ/0/M/IMG_1205-M.jpg
Finally it turned up at home and it was time to see what I actually had. Overall the condition was great apart from the paint. I do realise that they produced grey ones but this had been slapped on at some stage to give it a modern look, maybe to go with the grey 5x7 spring back that came with it, we will never know. It came with a 1A stand that was complete with minimal splits (a couple of small ones from a huge roofing screw that someone used as a replacement but all in all there was no damage at all and all fittings were complete for both the camera and the stand.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-8Vth4F6/0/M/20160801_194707-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-vVL5HQw/0/M/20160801_194723-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-sLHnVNh/0/M/20160801_224746-M.jpg
ID plates, so sad I didn't get a lens or 8x10 back and holders lol but beggars can't be choosers.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Film-Cameras/i-gR9wzBq/0/M/kodak_plate_0016-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Film-Cameras/i-KNqGCDs/0/M/kodak_plate_0007-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Film-Cameras/i-ChkBHMs/0/M/kodak_plate_0001-M.jpg
Dismantling starts, there was nothing difficult about it just a few things that got me studying how it went together in the first place. I think the only one I didn't nut out properly was the rack cog on the base, I ended up winding it off the rack as I didn't have my drift kit to remove the pin in the cog, it did no damage although I was worried it might bend the rod that carries the knobs and cog but it didn't so unfounded.
I had been worried about the hinges that were used to fix the base to the stand, worried that they were just old door hinges but it turns out that they are indeed the original parts that fitted from the stand to the table top so really all I need to do is make a new table, the only bit that is missing.
Paint stripping is boring and everyone has seen it done so I won't post pics of bubbling paint. I used a commercial stripper and it took the paint right off the shellac, well at least I am sure it is shellac as I figured if I clean the stripping up with metholated spirit (do you have that in the US?) it would clean and reactivate the shellac and that it did. So my method was strip, scrape with a paint scraper, wipe down with paper towel soaked in Metho to remove the residual stripper (water swells grain where as Metho doesn't as it evaporates so quickly) then using 0000 steel wool soaked in metho give it a light rub as metho is like denatured alcohol and will reactivate the shellac and wipe down with clean paper towel to even out the stain. So I have beautifully clean still stained mahogany and or cherry. When I re stain everything to colour match I will use alcohol and not the metho in the prep phase.
The cast iron was relatively simple and has come up a treat.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-whwx6tt/0/M/20160802_173306-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-kH5J5sM/0/M/20160802_154929-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-xnbZrrX/0/M/20160806_152705-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-5dBHLZH/0/M/20160808_164945-M.jpg
The light trap felts in the sliding back are interesting as I have not seen a photo before although I have seen a pic where someone had glued felt in without the holder strips.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-jDpzPG3/0/M/20160810_174400-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-WRHH4gK/0/M/20160810_175004-M.jpg
goamules
12-Aug-2016, 06:02
They're good cameras, and good mahogany underneath. The hard part will be stripping all that grey paint. I've done it before with an 8x10 Kodak, and it's difficult to get the paint out of nooks and crannies. You end up with grey vestiges in a lot of places, but I didn't disassemble as thoroughly as you are.
All stripped off and no residue, I was very concerned about the end grain but what has saved this is the great job they did on the original stain that was under the paint, filled the grain beautifully and hence not a spec left.
Post a couple of pics tomorrow.
Michael
Tin Can
12-Aug-2016, 07:15
I HAD the same camera and stand in similar condition but sold it to a guy in Texas. I know he reads this Forum...
I have stripped spray paint off many bicycles that were stolen.
Used Aircraft stripper really quickly, wiping it on and off and regained full factory finish.
mine's still grey... I did strip a B&J commercial - but it came to me disassembled so it wasn't a big deal
Thanks guys.
Packard shutter... I have a massively recessed lens board box aprox 200mm or 8" deep (WHY?) it has had the Packard shutter screwed to the back of it and on the other side of that is where the lens mounts on a lens board (that I don't have). Is this recess simply to shade the lens from flash or what ever? May be a dumb question but it has me stumped I understand the idea behind recessed boards but I have never seen one this deep. It actually has been extended in depth, very roughly compared to the rest of the box.
Thoughts appreciated.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-xVVGvKW/0/M/20160813_111155-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-DgxQLNM/0/M/20160813_111255-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-dcrDWxJ/0/M/20160813_111724-M.jpg
Tin Can
12-Aug-2016, 19:12
Mine had a second lens board mount on the middle of 3 standards, same size as the front. There were 2 bellows.
I was so unknowlegable when I got it I didn't notice the huge Packard inside the front standard. It was open, 4.5 inches. I thought it just an odd round hole.
I later removed it and put it in my current Deardorff SC11.
Never did find out why they have center lens board mounts, seems a short lens would get vignetted by your box or my front bellows.
Perhaps it was for copy work?
Would you use a really short lens for copy work though Randy? I am sure there is an explanation that will be a "doh" moment and I bet I am really showing my ignorance too.
Michael
Tin Can
12-Aug-2016, 20:11
Would you use a really short lens for copy work though Randy? I am sure there is an explanation that will be a "doh" moment and I bet I am really showing my ignorance too.
Michael
We better find out now as a lot of photography is not written and the knowledge base is dwindling.
Peter De Smidt
12-Aug-2016, 21:16
Won't that allow using shorter lenses? When I added my Sinar shutter on the front of my Century, it made the minimum extension grow by a couple inches. With the added extension from the shutter, I can't use a lens shorter than about 10".
Hi Peter I imagine that is it but it is a huge studio camera and the box is so deep so I was wondering the application for the short lens would be, it would never have made it out of the studio I imagine.
Michael
Steven Tribe
13-Aug-2016, 01:24
A big Petzval or Euryskop mounted at the front does give something of a phallic appearance!
Many surviving Portrait lenses do have traces of impact with the studio floor. Studio photographers used assistents who were, understandably, less concerned about investments in equipment. So, perhaps, a deeply recessed board would reduce the chances of a catastrophic fall. This is especialy true of the big Euryskops which have fixed end mountings.
Another possibility is - one position for Cabinet lenses and the other for CdeV lenses. Petzvals have low angles of view.
Jim Jones
13-Aug-2016, 04:33
Long ago I briefly had a solar enlarger or copy camera with provisions for holding film at one end, a lens board in the middle, and film or paper at the other end. Two bellows permitted the focus and enlarging ratio to be changed. I never tried to use it. The Century may have been modified for similar use.
Jac@stafford.net
13-Aug-2016, 05:38
Mine had a second lens board mount on the middle of 3 standards, same size as the front. There were 2 bellows.
Interesting! I recall seeing a similar camera: two bellows and a wooden midsection which had a tall, thin door in the side. Perhaps it was to insert a lens board.
Still a mystery then, I am thinking with Jim and Randy, copy work hopefully someone will weigh in with a definitive explanation. Someone must know!
Michael
Interesting! I recall seeing a similar camera: two bellows and a wooden midsection which had a tall, thin door in the side. Perhaps it was to insert a lens board.
Now that would be interesting!
Michael
Peter De Smidt
13-Aug-2016, 08:34
Hi Peter I imagine that is it but it is a huge studio camera and the box is so deep so I was wondering the application for the short lens would be, it would never have made it out of the studio I imagine.
Michael
Groups.
Big studio Peter lol but yes you might be right.
Michael
Bit quiet on the weekend as the shop is open but a couple more photo's and the thread will be up to date.
I am very happy with how the paint stripped off, very little to no residue and I am still yet to go over and wipe with alcohol and then re stain to get the camera and stand the one base colour then I need to work out what serviceable finish to put on it.
The winding mechanism on the stand is the next part to strip and then all the fittings.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-43jZBzR/0/M/20160813_110423-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-VN6QSRh/0/M/20160813_110527-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-4HHX5xG/0/M/20160813_110440-M.jpg
Any bellows experts around? I am struggling to identify the bellows material, it is a replacement but pretty old, it is stiff but not overly and seems pretty light tight, the felt inside is in good nick.
I trimmed a sliver off the join and did a burn test and I am thinking it is leather. There was no toxic vinyl sort of smell just a burnt odor. Any ideas appreciated before I put the wrong rejuvenation on it.
The first pic is the vid of the sliver burning.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-FWFvvzz/0/640/20160812_144944-640.mp4
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-SDHmPLD/0/M/20160802_175959-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-bm2NKCC/0/M/20160802_180130-M.jpg
Paul Ewins
13-Aug-2016, 19:00
Thanks guys.
Packard shutter... I have a massively recessed lens board box aprox 200mm or 8" deep (WHY?) ...
Thoughts appreciated.
Michael
Hi Michael, my Kodak 1B (very similar but only a single bellows extension) came with the same sort of box. As far as I could tell it was for using shorter focal length lenses with a reducing back, probably 5x7, half plate or 4x5, where the bellows were simply too long even at minimum compression to allow the lens to be focussed.
Aha Paul I reckon you have hit the nail on the head as there was a 5x7 reducing back that came with it. Awesome! I knew the collective wisdom would sort it out.
Thanks
Michael
mikl, hard to tell in the second photo of the bellows seam that's lifted up in post # 24 , but it looks like it has a fabric backing
it may not be vinyl, but a polyurethane material, composite leather, or book cloth.
Can't hurt to just damp cloth wipe the bellows if they're in good shape.
That seems to me to be the glue Jim, I know it is hard to see form the pic, The burn test was inconclusive really (did you see the link to the video?) so I think I might try the heated spoon and see if it melts test next. Def going to give it a wipe down regardless, it is reasonably supple but I am sure it would liven up with a treatment.... just what treatment is the question?
Michael
Aren't these the sexiest little wheels. Every part of this thing is made to fit, sounds silly but there are not many obviously adapted and "it will do" gear on this camera.
These are underneath the camera mount and what rolls in the "V" groove when operating the rack and pinion for focus etc. There are 4 of them.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-HQZbRnx/0/M/20160815_163955-M.jpg
goamules
15-Aug-2016, 05:30
The V-groove and rollers were a big innovation over previous wood-on-wood sliding cameras.
That seems to me to be the glue Jim, I know it is hard to see form the pic, The burn test was inconclusive really (did you see the link to the video?) so I think I might try the heated spoon and see if it melts test next. Def going to give it a wipe down regardless, it is reasonably supple but I am sure it would liven up with a treatment.... just what treatment is the question?
Michael
The fire test was kind of inconclusive, there may be some all material cleaner rejuvenator wipe available in your area that you could apply
with no ill effects and just use the bellows till they fail.
Probably right Jim but I am still going to try the spoon test.
Progress again... I am on a roll!" Bit of black satin paint splashed round and lots of brass stripped ready for a polish. I read in the hysterical camera site that the brass was polished and then lacquered, this was off a description of a camera (contemporary I think) anyway I think I might look into that but we will see.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-QBBV4pK/0/M/20160816_164524_001-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-NpH9md6/2/M/20160816_174349-M.jpg
blue4130
16-Aug-2016, 02:29
I am watching this intently, can't wait to see the finished project. So far it looks great.
Thanks Vance, it is the dead of winter here so I am having plenty of time just hope the cold doesn't run out before I run out of steam lol. Feel free to chime in on anything!
Michael
mine did not have a deep lens box and as such..my 12" Voigtlander portrait would not focus at the 8-10 foot distance I need..so I got one of those Ilex shutter deals..took out the shutter and used the body as a recessed mount and I can just barely focus to about 12 feet... shorter distances are fine of course
those big lenses mount at the very back of the lens and not the middle is the issue
also..who uses a wide angle lense with this set up?? - that's cray cray
Peter De Smidt
16-Aug-2016, 08:56
A 240mm lens for a full-length portrait is crazy?
I haven't even put any thought into lenses yet.... Man that is a whole expensive can of worms lol
Michael
Peter De Smidt
16-Aug-2016, 17:42
It doesn't have to be. Use a Sinar, Ilexpo, or Packard shutter, and you can use some really good yet inexpensive barrel lenses.
I am primarily shooting wetplate with it so I am not even that fussed re a shutter, but you are right Peter.
Michael
Polishing some of the brass fittings that have been stripped. Most of the components seem to be brass plated and not solid brass, I imagine it is done for a) economy, b) strength of the particular component and c) brass has no "spring" so the spring steel clips etc are plated for uniformity. The actual finish is fairly rough but has shined up well but you would definitely not get a mirror surface out of most of it. Will finish off with some Renaissance Wax tomorrow for protection and as some are bearing / wear strips, for lubrication.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-tMbgnGX/0/M/20160826_120913-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-2z6NmwL/0/M/20160826_133202-M.jpg
Steven Tribe
26-Aug-2016, 04:07
All of the flat brass fitments will be brass, whilst axles, springs will be steel. Finish on those I have seen is between mirror and a worked brass finish - and lacquered, of course. The price of brass was not particularly high and there were plenty of copper/brasssmiths around.
Steven Tribe
26-Aug-2016, 04:11
I haven't even put any thought into lenses yet.... Man that is a whole expensive can of worms lol
Michael
It is such "a whole expensive can of worms" that it is probably best to find the lens(es) before getting a studio set and deciding the format you are going to start with!
goamules
26-Aug-2016, 07:18
The brass on most of my Anthony, Century, Folmer, Rochester, and Scovill cameras is originally fairly shiny. Definitely more so than your stripped examples. What did you use to strip them, or did you use rough grit polishing?
On lenses, you can start out with a 12 or 14 inch Tessar which would be period, and take very nice photos. Probably get one for under $250 if you look.
That's what I would have thought but some of the brass is pretty rough. No grit, just a chem strip and water. It isn't a reaction kinda thing I am sure.
The bigger plates in the front of the pic are the swivel points for the rear tilt so are fairly prominent and definitely not a finish that could have been a high polish originally I will try and get a better pic today.
Steven I currently use a Sinar 4x5 and a Toyo 8x10 so please don't stress re me making the wrong choice.
Michael
Jac@stafford.net
26-Aug-2016, 15:35
Your post is like my experience in rewind. Good for you!
Just two things that worked for me. I hope I am not repeating myself. Once the wood is stripped of paint (and it is), then a straight-edge wood refinishing tool does wonders. It removes irregularities, straightens the surface. I got this set (http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Scrapers/Scraper_Blades.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2016-08-gp&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0f-9BRCF9-D60_n4rKcBEiQAnXW4-9nVaVMndZND88W4-z8vQ4sNWjIFPoHRnVzExbmgeFUaAv788P8HAQ) a long time ago and it's invaluable.
Again, hoping not to repeat but a vibratory polisher is good for small metal parts. (Google vibratory polisher) Some are priced on the moon for aliens. I've been using a small, economical one for thirty years. Good stuff! I drop the parts in before bed, pick them out after morning coffee and if not bright enough (rare), repeat.
Best of luck to you. I anticipate your success!
Jac
Roger Thoms
26-Aug-2016, 17:37
Don't know about your camera but my Eastman Kodak 2D has a fine sandblasted finish on the brass. Perhaps your brass has the same type of finish.
Roger
Don't know about your camera but my Eastman Kodak 2D has a fine sandblasted finish on the brass. Perhaps your brass has the same type of finish.
Roger
Brass finish on 2D's varied by the years they were produced, later one's like my 1945 one have a matte finish on the brass, I have a 1901 vintage one
where the brass was mirror polished.
Roger and Jim are right I think, this does look sand blasted, well some of it anyway. Mine may be a later one then if it was a more common practice in those years.
Michael
Def. some of it is plated Steven as you can see by the wear of the plating back to bare metal in some spots
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-SxT2mGb/0/M/20160827_115444-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-PZrVV8f/0/M/20160827_115204_001-M.jpg
These are brass as you say
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-Qsz7jqv/0/M/20160827_115405-M.jpg
Hi Jac
Did you do a thread on your restoration? Would love to see it or some photo's.
Cabinet scrapers are a fantastic tool but lost in the midst of time I think sadly, anyone that has used one will attest to that. we used to make them out of saw blades by snapping the end off about 4 or 5 inches long, filing the teeth down to flat and burring it with a rod, I still have mine from when I was an apprentice. The agitator is a great idea but I find it mindless therapy just polishing with a rag, I use a product called "autosol" which is a toothpastey sort of thing and then "briteshine" a wadding impegnated with god knows what but it works wonderfully I have a passion for Italian motorcycles and have always used these 2 on the alloy engine covers and just the briteshine on the cast aluminium bits, great on chrome too!
Michael
Roger Thoms
26-Aug-2016, 20:23
Brass finish on 2D's varied by the years they were produced, later one's like my 1945 one have a matte finish on the brass, I have a 1901 vintage one
where the brass was mirror polished.
Should have mentions my 2D dates to 1942.
Roger
Big help thanks Roger, I thought mine as an early 20's but I am not sure there is any way of positively knowing.
Michael
I love finding makers reference marks this time on the bellows.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-mdLdJCK/0/M/20160827_154453-M.jpg
So time to get around maybe the biggest problem with this camera. The shelf was missing and the rails were bolted directly to the hinges sadly, to compound the "fix" they have just chopped bolt into the rail. Infuriates me really but I guess it served his purpose. Anyway I have been thinking of patching with some mahogany but it will always be obvious especially as mahogany is not a common species here in Oz.... so I was thinking of an old adage.... "If you stuff up put a spotlight on it and call it a feature" My thinking was to remove the damaged part of the wood and let a brass strip say 4" (100mm) long into the rail and screwed down through the top then round off the edges to shape it the same as the timber. My inlaying skills are pretty good so that shouldn't be a problem and I think it will match all the other brass pretty well as well as strengthening the weaked "butchered" mahogany (or cherry ... even harder to find here).
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-GRrMHCc/0/M/20160827_163217-M.jpg
Jac@stafford.net
27-Aug-2016, 08:31
Hi Jac
Did you do a thread on your restoration? Would love to see it or some photo's.
Funny, but I did not because I did mine before the Web proliferated.
I have a passion for Italian motorcycles
How tragic. I know from experience that withdrawal is difficult. Ducati in my case.
Way off topic but you don't often find a kindred spirit on a photography forum lol.
Jac you would appreciate this then
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/My-Bikes/i-9qDzvD7/0/M/My%202%20SSs-M.jpg
Tin Can
27-Aug-2016, 17:34
Way off topic but you don't often find a kindred spirit on a photography forum lol.
Jac you would appreciate this then
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/My-Bikes/i-9qDzvD7/0/M/My%202%20SSs-M.jpg
Nice!
There are more than a few bikers here. Rode my legal muffled XLH a lot this week.
Ahh olden days Jac. Those 2 are long gone. The red one is a 75 900 and the black is a 78, last one I sold was my 74 GT, loved that bike.
I had a 1200GS in the States that I would leave with a friend in Delaware or LA depending where I ended up, last trip a few years ago I did the north east coast, CA Maritime's and the Trans Labrador H'way then back in the US at Minnesota, nearly got blown away by a tornado in Grand Falls or Grand Rapids (tiny little place) one night and then blew the bottom end in Bismark ND lol.
Anyway we had best get back on track (pardon the pun)
Michael
Sorry Randy I thought Jac had replied.
Michael
Tin Can
27-Aug-2016, 19:23
Sorry Randy I thought Jac had replied.
Michael
We are allowed a bit of off topic, polite conversation.
However, as you well know, 'normal' people hate bikes of all kinds. :)
Jac@stafford.net
27-Aug-2016, 20:04
However, as you well know, 'normal' people hate bikes of all kinds. :)
This is one of the bikes I built from the ground-up using parts found at swap meets in the days before
blister packed Asian 'custom' bolt-ons. That was a long time ago.
My '46, '56, '66 Harley-Davidson, Butcher Boy.
154367
I liked building things.
My only other bit of wood work is the minor splits in the stand posts, will glue up relatively easily.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-k7pdPMr/0/M/20160828_123717-M.jpg
Bellows cleaned up pretty well, now for some suppling agent lol. Still some dust inside so will blow out next time I have the compressor plugged in. Took another sliver to do the "spoon test" to see if it is leather or man made.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-TKZffMq/0/M/20160828_130830-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-znSMtZ6/0/M/20160828_130759-M.jpg
Interestingly some of the brass parts from the sliding carriage are chemically blackened, I imagine to stop any reflection.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-VST7s5H/0/M/20160829_165348-M.jpg
There wan't enough consistency on the stripped cranking mechanism to call it a "finish" there was plenty of evidence of a black paint I am taking as an original finish, it wasn't very even but it was here and there. So the decision to satin black the assembly was made...... Correctly I am hoping although this was never set out to be a 100% resto just to make it beautiful and functional again.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-5CpTrLX/0/M/20160829_124404-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-wXz3ZW7/0/M/20160829_172335-M.jpg
Bit of progress, a spirit stain chosen and wiped on as a first coat, still another 1 or 2 to go to get it even. It was as close to original colour as I could find and looks great. Will probably go for a wipe on Poly finish and rub with 0000 steel wool to remain as a satin as I am a bit worried more traditional finishes like shellac etc might not be stable enough for wet plate whereas poly is bullet proof and wiping on gives a more authentic finish to brush... maybe lol.
I used a leather conditioner on the bellows as I couldn't find any indication that it wasn't leather but I don't think it did much so now I am leaning towards it being some kind of man made material and will try something else in the next day or so. In saying that they did clean up beautifully inside and out although I still need to gently blow out with air to remove the dust grains inside.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-Px49FzB/0/M/20160901_100941-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-p83LGtQ/0/M/20160901_174405-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-vWTFprt/0/M/20160905_165952-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-QrqTmsr/0/M/20160905_170033-M.jpg
The winding mechanism was painted pretty well in 1 piece as I was loathe to belt pins through 100 year old (give or take) cast iron for no real need, I tried all pins / parts and only removed those that would move easily. The last thing I wanted was busted cast iron! The machine screw that holds the wheel on had snapped at the level of the axle but has a bad bur on it so I will have to get the dremel in there and try and grind it down to get the wheel off so I can "easy out" the rest of the stud in the axle.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-z3pprf9/0/M/20160905_171456-M.jpg
Agonized over chopping into the original rails on the 9A but to fill these craters I am left with no option, I haven't any mahogany but managed to find some 3/4 x 5/8 brass so I spent the day filing v's into each end and will let them into the rails and shape to suit. I reckon it will suit the period just will look odd to a "train spotter" in 50 years lol. "Oh it is the really rare one with the brass stiffener in the rail eh"
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-St8L6bN/0/M/20160908_202838-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-PF97tsC/0/M/20160908_202753-M.jpg
Hand stamp a low number in them and call them 'Vibration Dampeners'.
A rare and valuable enhancement. :)
Yep Randy that's my thinking ha ha!
Cut in the brass inlays, came up pretty well, still only roughed in with a file (the brass) so looks like I will be filing, sanding and polishing tomorrow.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-v3d7KXC/0/M/20160910_170035-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-9M4ZvvC/0/M/20160910_164843-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-gp6QrQH/0/M/20160910_164834-M.jpg
Peter De Smidt
10-Sep-2016, 07:02
looks good!
By the serial number mine is one of the last 9A's made and dates to 1924 that is if I am reading Jay Allen's book right.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-LXgk6HG/0/M/20160911_152822-M.jpg
It is a forest of mahogany here..... First coat of wipe on poly.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-C5JMRkq/0/M/20160913_222640-M.jpg
Tin Can
13-Sep-2016, 06:40
Is that a real kitchen? Of the film safe?
Looking real nice!
Real Randy but there is film in there lol
Michael
Started the table top, from a pile of Phillipines Mahogany door jamb to a Century 1A top, we will see how it goes!
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-wrwNGnX/0/M/20160921_110425-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-bBdxPGF/0/M/20160921_152647-M.jpg
Nice score at Alcocks (the best billiards table people in the world) got some fair dinkum ridgey dige wool baize for my 1A stand. Pretty happy with that I can tell you!
Other than that lots of progress, the camera is re assembled, just have a little bit to do on the sliding base where I inlayed the brass to cover up the wood butchered holes.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-7kFk9DF/0/M/20160929_185010-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-NDmtT7D/0/M/20160929_184524-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-x2t7djW/0/M/20160929_185030-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-gcLmvJK/0/M/20160929_185053-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-KzV7HFx/0/M/20160929_185041-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-rVMb3cJ/0/M/20160928_171914-M.jpg
Wow, that's really coming along!
Kent in SD
Steven Tribe
29-Sep-2016, 07:20
Fair Dinkum, indeed!
What on earth is Phillippine Mahogany? I would thought that tongued and grooved would be more reliable than glue!
ScottPhotoCo
29-Sep-2016, 09:59
This is going to be stunning when you're done. Bravo!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
AuditorOne
29-Sep-2016, 11:59
Tongue in groove can make pieces easy to line up but a well made edge joint can be very strong, particularly with newer glues. Just don't starve the joint of glue.
Butt joints placing pieces end grain to end grain definitely benefit from tongue in groove or dovetails.
Jac@stafford.net
29-Sep-2016, 12:12
Butt joints placing pieces end grain to end grain definitely benefit from tongue in groove or dovetails.
Biscuit Joints have pretty much replaced the naked butt joint. In this area we rent one for a day. Google "Biscuit Joint".
Couple of answers....
Phillipines Mahogany is exactly that it comes from the Phillipines as the original used, South American Mahogany, came from Honduras I believe. The Phillipines stuff is not as good as Honduran but the latter is near on impossible to get here.
The table top is biscuit joined even on the butt joins, T&G is old hat for something like this and the butt joins would have had to be dowelled any way so biscuits it is. The original tables (from photo's I have seen) were made with sometimes with 3 cross pieces, sometimes with 2. The theory behind this is the shorter the lengths the less warping you have and the cross pieces supply stability the other way.
Michael
Edit, should have said this is not my pic but from google when I was researching the bits I didn't have.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-5LCfMjf/1/L/13765782_667663350049866_1672876238329379579_o-L.jpg
RSalles
30-Sep-2016, 04:31
Wonderful! Like the finish you've done.
When I was kid, mahogany was the most wanted & used in solid wood furniture construction, until the conservation office had concluded that it was the main reason for forest vanish. My bet is the doors and windows fabrication were the main market for this wood, not furniture. And now it's forbidden to extract or export. The main source are those houses and large tables made of pure mahogany, which appears at the flea markets from time to time,
Cheers,
Renato
Steven Tribe
30-Sep-2016, 05:29
Renato - as you are in area (Nearly, anyway!), have you heard/read anything plantation mahogany? I remember reading about replanting of mahogany around the 1930's which would replace the loss of natural forests. When I was in Cuba in the 90's I asked about mahogany, but the only tree they could show me was a apple tree sized one with a few dead branches which had fallen off for the convenience of tourists like me!
I suppose other plantations give quicker and more economic returns.
RSalles
30-Sep-2016, 15:16
Steven,
Yes there are new plantations of Brazilian mahogany and even African mahogany in the country, but the trees are not ready yet for cutting.
What's being cut at this moment with great success is Teak - the best wood for sailing boat decks.
More info at this links - you'll probably need some Google translation on it:
http://www.mognobrasileiro.com.br/
http://www.mognobrasileiro.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/img_0297-e1457634168577.jpg
http://www.parqueflorestal.com.br/dicas/
http://www.parqueflorestal.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Tora-de-Mogno-africano.png
Cheers,
Renato
Thanks Renato, it is a satin clear not a gloss and the brass is only mildly polished, it looks like the old guys were always worried about reflections, well that is my take on it all anyway as some of the brass is almost a sand blasted finish.
Michael
Getting there (and yes I know the camera is facing the wrong way)
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-z853zKW/0/M/20161002_121949-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-bpvTF85/0/M/IMG_1205-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-SFXmvV3/0/M/20161002_144849-M.jpg
Peter De Smidt
1-Oct-2016, 21:12
It's look'n great!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-bpvTF85/0/M/IMG_1205-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-SFXmvV3/0/M/20161002_144849-M.jpg
Nice work. Don't forget to make a dust cover, to keep it 'new'! I should have done that...
My rig is different and I put white felt under the camera bottom to preserve the painted board. Deardorff SC11.
I can tell that you are not taking any shortcuts in restoring this and it looks absolutely stunning.
Pali
Dust cover is a great idea Randy.
Thanks Peter and Pali.
Hopefully it is the tiny details like doing a cut out on the base board so the felt folds over flush to keep the trim straight that makes a difference.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-N5c7sVp/0/M/20160930_092711-M.jpg
Jac@stafford.net
2-Oct-2016, 17:22
What possessed manufacturers to paint their cameras in Navy ship grey?
Any idea?
.
Story I heard Jaq was that during the military "build up" prior to the second world war anything military became a symbol for well made so they started painting things grey, not sure how true that is though. If mine had of been an original grey finish I more than likely would have left it as it was but the colour was a greenish grey and quite obviously not a factory finish so it came off.
Michael
Roger Thoms
2-Oct-2016, 19:00
What possessed manufacturers to paint their cameras in Navy ship grey?
Any idea?
.
Bought my girlfriend a grey, Burke and James 5x7 Commercial View with red bellows, beautiful camera, guess there's no accounting for taste. Even had my local paint store eye match the grey so that I could paint the lens boards I made to match. Now Michael's restoration looks fantastic too and brings camera back to a finish very close to the factory original. I've definitely enjoyed following the progress on this project.
Roger
Been a long journey and still not quite there yet. Anyone have any ideas what went in these screw holes (apart from screws, thought I would "head that one off at the pass"
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-LkngDtJ/0/M/20161016_161422-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-tn957GC/0/M/20161016_161837-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-K94hFdc/0/M/20161016_161538-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-S5VHKSd/0/M/20161016_161555-M.jpg
A couple more
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-Dp46hVb/0/M/20161016_161500-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-V2mnKfT/0/M/20161016_161438-M.jpg
AuditorOne
29-Oct-2016, 15:26
Could the three screws in the center side piece have held some form of swinging level arrow? Just guessing on this one.
As for the other two holes I have no clue.
Jac@stafford.net
29-Oct-2016, 15:37
Could the three screws in the center side piece have held some form of swinging level arrow? Just guessing on this one.
Mine has the brass leveling pointer on the rear-most section.
Lens turned up on the weekend so quickly knocked up a temp lens board and for the first time in who knows how long we have an image on some ground glass (actually the back from the Toyo 8x10} Lenscap in production too.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-WgbPLtQ/0/M/20161119_121712-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-rZgn8rZ/0/M/20161119_164027-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-Qw99hvS/0/M/20161120_191838-M.jpg
Forgot the image on the ground glass doh!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-LHhWtxr/0/M/20161119_164811-M.jpg
RSalles
21-Nov-2016, 07:53
Nice!
Patrick13
21-Nov-2016, 18:11
Magic, every time.
Had to make a lens cap for the Leisgang so I had some old NZ Kauri, 100 year old leather from a piano stool cover and the left over English felt form the camera stand so a bit of chopping, shaping, a bit of glue tiny bit of swearing and hey presto.... 1 lens cap.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-DVjQXKK/0/M/20161126_084556-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-SLJ7q9D/0/M/20161126_084629-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-RBp3h3J/0/M/20161126_084710-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-NqT7N6W/0/M/20161126_084641-M.jpg
Finally got to shoot one out of the Century 9A albeit with the Toyo back gaffer taped on still worked great and loving that 480 3.5
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/My-Wet-Plate/i-4z3SfMH/0/M/MattJPG%20%281%20of%201%29-M.jpg
Milonian
24-Dec-2016, 01:14
Finally got to shoot one out of the Century 9A albeit with the Toyo back gaffer taped on still worked great and loving that 480 3.5
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/My-Wet-Plate/i-4z3SfMH/0/M/MattJPG%20%281%20of%201%29-M.jpg
Just brilliant - the whole thing, start to end!
Thanks so much Milonian, always nice to hear things are well received!
We in Oz still say merry Christmas, so Merry Christmas mate.
Milonian
25-Dec-2016, 23:26
Thanks so much Milonian, always nice to hear things are well received!
We in Oz still say merry Christmas, so Merry Christmas mate.
We still say that too, so Merry Christmas to you (and anyone else who is reading this thread). In Scotland we usually add "and a Guid New Year". We used to say "Lang may yer lum reek" - may your chimney smoke for many years - but we're all in Smokeless Zones now!
Mine has the brass leveling pointer on the rear-most section.
On my 8a there is a tilt adjustment so I pulled up an image of a 9a. I think you are missing the entire assembly.
Can't say I have ever seen a 9a before though, might be wrong.
159198
Thanks Donkee my tilt is the knob on the left, under the back standard the swing is on the right.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/Century-9A-Restoration/i-LkngDtJ/0/M/20161016_161422-M.jpg
blue4130
29-Dec-2016, 20:39
That is such a beautiful camera. You have really done an outstanding job with it.
And so it starts again!
Couldn't help myself... An Anthony Climax Portrait Camera I think a 16x20 but will know for sure when it turns up.... Will probably do another write up on the resto progress.
Michael
https://photos.smugmug.com/E-and-HT-Anthony/i-CHs83bP/0/M/s-l1600-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/E-and-HT-Anthony/i-CTGHsS4/0/M/s-l1600%20%282%29-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/E-and-HT-Anthony/i-ffFxgGk/0/M/s-l1600%20%281%29-M.jpg
Tin Can
11-Jan-2017, 14:01
Cool!
Some of us really like fixing and using giant cameras. I am eager to see this one shine. I would love to know dimensions and weight when you get around to it.
No probs Randy, it is a week or so from getting here so when it does you will be first to know.
I am having trouble finding it in the Anthony catalogs so any info greatly appreciated. From a quick google it is from 1888 but I am not yet convinced.
Michael
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