Darkroom Sink help...

[jackcollings]

Hi guys,

First time poster to LFP and just looking for some advice on sinks for darkrooms. I'm looking to build my own so looking for some tips and maybe some design pointers that would be important and handy to have in a colour/B&W developing sink.

Would love to to hear your suggestions and some criticism and advice on my rough sketch that I've drawn up!

Regards,

Jack


139275

[Bruce Barlow]

This book has a step-by-step plan for making one that is inexpsnsive and highly usable. Easily adapted if you don't like the size. I have made two of these. They're great.

http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own-Home-Darkroom/dp/0936262044

[vinny]

What material are you using? Plyood, stainless steel? Plastic?
I've made more than one using birch plywood and west stystems marine epoxy. There are several existing threads on this so I won't go into details.

[Alan Curtis]

This book has a step-by-step plan for making one that is inexpsnsive and highly usable. Easily adapted if you don't like the size. I have made two of these. They're great.

http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own-Home-Darkroom/dp/0936262044

I agree with Bruce, I built my sink from plans in this book almost 30 years ago and it still works great.

[Jim Noel]

What material are you using? Plyood, stainless steel? Plastic?
I've made more than one using birch plywood and west stystems marine epoxy. There are several existing threads on this so I won't go into details.

Second this. I built my plywood w/West Systems epoxy in 1989. Never a leak and still going strong.

[Tin Can]

Don't forget to look locally for a sink. They definitely exist.

I found 4.

[Doremus Scudder]

I'm in the middle of building my second (and hopefully last) darkroom sink out of marine plywood, pine and fir. It will be sealed and then painted with marine paint. Some thoughts/considerations that might help you.

Build as big a sink as you can for the space you have. You'll always end up using it.

Make sure you have a slope to the drain (mine slopes in to the center from the four corners, with the center rear being the lowest point of the sink. That way, there's not such a drop from one end to the other).

Try to minimize holes for fasteners, etc. in the sink bed itself; they'll leak no matter how hard you try to seal them (ask any boat builder). Caulking seams and corners before painting is important too.

I'd question the need for a partition for the water tempering bath, especially if you're not doing color. For black and white printing it's just not necessary. For film, you can use a larger tray for the developer (the only really temperature critical step) or simply do the math for the right developing time for the ambient temperature. For color, there are better solutions. That way, you'll have a more versatile, not divided, sink.

If you're going to use a print washer, remember that they are pretty heavy when full. Make sure you have adequate support.

While marine epoxy is a good solution for a really waterproof sink, I have simply used well-caulked, primed plywood painted with good quality topside paint for years. My sink is not "underwater" for long periods of time. I've never had a leak; I've only repainted once and that just because there were so many developer stains.

The right sink height is more important than you think. My sink is designed with an armrest (really just an extra board on the front rounded for comfort) that lets me comfortably rest my forearms on it with my elbows not bent to 90° (arms extended down a bit) and with my fingers just touching the sink deck. That way, I know I can develop in trays comfortably. Your 300mm (12-inch) depth might be a bit deep for you. It certainly would be for me. You'll have to find the right height and sink depth for your ergonomics.

Hope this helps,

Doremus

[Nigel Smith]

I agree with Doremus, 300ml deep is too deep to be reaching into. Mines 100mm deep and if I ever make another sink I'd be making it shallower. Mine is made from some kind of acrylic sheet, glued together with some silastic. Never leaked (13 years old). I have extra acrylic sheeting extending up the walls around 2 sides (other side there is a fridge) which come in handy as surfaces to squeegee fiber prints. My sink has a well on one end with the drain in it which makes it easy to wash up trays/tanks/etc but limits the number of trays you can have.

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[Peter Langham]

Another vote for the book Bruce recommended. I too have built 2 sinks using that book as a guideline. I greatly modified the plans to meet my needs (made an L shaped sink to maximize limited space), but the plans still worked great. I used both epoxy resin and epoxy paint after caulking plywood...overkill?, maybe... Make the biggest sink you possibly can. You never know when a print is going to demand to be made larger. (I had to modify multiple elements of my darkroom when a picture insisted on being 16X20).
Also recommend carefully considering the design and use of the space under the sink. Storage tend to be at a premium in most darkrooms

[bob carnie]

Not much I can add to the above.. lots of really good advice.

Bigger better, West System, Proper Slope.

But the best advice given was sink height... make sure you demand your builder makes it to suit you...

I am short - and getting shorter as I age.. every stupid sink I had built was by tall guys... big mistake...

[Fred L]

not sure how space limited you are but a 20" x 60" sink would be too small for me. Also the height is way too low. If I get another darkroom built or expand mine, I'd be looking at an eight foot sink that's goes back about 3 feet. it would be about 6 inches or so deep. ymmv

[Bruce Barlow]

My plywood sink is 29" x 7 1/2' because that fits the space. I don't make prints larger than 8x10. It's 5 1/2" deep, and the front is a 2x6, so it's thick enough to rest my arms on comfortably.

Yup, height is crucial. I carefully measured what I wanted, and then went to The Shelving Store online and got a 6' set of chrome wire shelves with custom-cut posts to get it to the right height (standard size shelves, room for the drain at one end). Simple, easy, inexpensive, and I have 3 shelves underneath to store junk. Crutch tips on one end, top and bottom, give me enough tilt to drain adequately. My last sink had wood blocks under one end.

[Ginette]

Hi guys,

First time poster to LFP and just looking for some advice on sinks for darkrooms. I'm looking to build my own so looking for some tips and maybe some design pointers that would be important and handy to have in a colour/B&W developing sink.

Would love to to hear your suggestions and some criticism and advice on my rough sketch that I've drawn up!

Regards,

Jack

139275

If your space is really tight that you cannot afford larger sink I think a Delta ABS sink will be appropriate. Look also for used one, ABS, stainless, on Craiglist or others in your area. It can be a good bargain.
If you have the space, do the larger you can. An add a backsplash.
What the wash area is for, for the vertical print washers or only for washing darkroom accessories? A laundry tub can be just fine for that, double size without divider also exist, Mustee do one.

[Duolab123]

Look for used sinks. I just had a nice old fellow give me a 10 foot Arkay SS sink and stand. Room for 4 20 x 24 Paterson trays and then some. I also have a Kreonite fiberglass sink 8 foot , this is the Cadillac, paid $40 for it 30 years ago when all the big Process cameras were going away. I have a great old Kodak book where they are talking about using lead sheet over Cypress, they stressed not to solder but to have the lead welded to avoid corrosion!

With all the modern materials, treated wood, coatings, you can make just about any size or shape. Sounds like a fun project!

[jackcollings]

Thanks a lot Bruce! Greatly appreciated will be looking using as some what of a bible when I get it!

[jackcollings]

Thank you so much for the in depth knowledge, definitely going to be taking some of your suggestions on board to employ into my own darkroom.

If I was to do colour what sort of partition would you recommend? What is a print washer this is the first I have heard of them... Are they more beneficial in a home or commercial darkroom?

Thanks again Doremus I'll be back to the drawing board and fixing up and hopefully creating a great sink!

Kind Regards,

Jack

[jackcollings]

Thanks Nigel, your sink looks great I think I'll be adapting some of your elements into mine for sure! Do you process colour film or just black and white? Just have a few questions with relation to the colour developing and water baths etc.

Regards,

Jack

[jackcollings]

The wash area was still apart of the main sink it was just to divide the water so colour processing temperatures could be more closely monitored. After the advice on here I can definitely see my mistakes and hope to amend them with a new design.

Thanks for all your help ginette,


Jack

[Nigel Smith]

Jack, just B&W for me.