Setting up 4x5 developing, the FAQ

[buzzardkid]

Hi,

I'm about to set up 4x5 developing (printing will be after scanning only so no wet printing) and I'm suspecting there's a whole slew of Frequently Asked Questions that some forum members have long grown tired off, so maybe a final wrapper-up thread on this might be useful.


There's a lot of films, developers, fixers and whathaveyous out there and probably sufficient threads on how to deal with them, but I'm into the more basic stuff for 4x5 (or larger) newbies like myself:


How much table space do I need in the darkroom to rather comfortably load the film?

Anyone got any neat tricks to keep dust down when loading film?

Film with notches at bottom left when the film older is oriented like it is on the camera means emulsion is front, right?

Developing: in trays (scratches? gloves?), Combiplan (discontinued), Yankee tank (uneven development risk), metal frames dunk tank (hard to source in the EU), selfmade film tanks and holders, rotary tubes, MOD54 in a Paterson thank, any other neat tips?

The questions I forgot?


Thanks for helping me and the other newbies out.

[Jim Jones]

One large tray that can hold up to six 4x5 or slightly larger trays helps clean-up. I prefer developing one negative at a time in trays, but will shuffle several negatives at a time if there are more than a few to develop. Photo chemicals bother my hands less than do gloves. However, fix should be carefully washed from hands before processing a new bunch of negatives.

[buzzardkid]

On loading film, I found a heap of Youtube clips but this <2mins clip told me what I needed to know: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdWK8varqDo

[DrTang]

I use one of those Jobo tanks with the reel that takes 6 sheets

I shoot HP-4 usually and I develop for 11.5 minutes with d-76 1:1 (inverting like I did with rollfilm - I cork up the opening)

I can do all this in about 18 square inches of kitchen table space not including my graylab timer

for loading..I use a big ol black film loading thing with the arm holes..I do this on the coffee table while watching Seinfeld re-runs usually


I also load film into the holders in the black loading thing while watching Seinfeld

film notches are on my index finger of my right hand when holding the film

[Huub]

> How much table space do I need in the darkroom to rather comfortably load the film?
I first unload my holders into some empty boxes, seperating the various N-1, N and N+1 negatives. Then i load the contents of the boxes into the development tanks. I need about 60 cm of table space.

> Anyone got any neat tricks to keep dust down when loading film?
This is a non-issue. Any dust that gets on the film after exposure will be washed away during development.

> Film with notches at bottom left when the film older is oriented like it is on the camera means emulsion is front, right?
Yes.

> Developing: in trays (scratches? gloves?), Combiplan (discontinued), Yankee tank (uneven development risk), metal frames dunk tank (hard to source in the EU), selfmade film tanks and holders, rotary tubes, MOD54 in a Paterson thank, any other neat tips?

Jobo tanks - both the 2500 ones or the expert drums give excelent results. Then there is the taco method. The 2500 series can be used for both rotary processing and intermittant agitation.

[Jeff Dexheimer]

Here are my tips. Ymmv




How much table space do I need in the darkroom to rather comfortably load the film?

loading film can be done on a rather small table. Many people use changing tents. I myself used a 1.5ft x 2ft flat piece of metal I placed over my bathroom sink. I used this surface for tray dev for years before upgrading to a full 14ft sink.

Anyone got any neat tricks to keep dust down when loading film?

Humidity. It removes dust from the air. Before I built my darkroom, I did all my stuff in the bathroom. Before doing anything with my film I ran the shower on hot for a few minutes to remove dust.

Film with notches at bottom left when the film older is oriented like it is on the camera means emulsion is front, right?

the way you describe it seems backward to me. Here is how I think about it. When I load my holder it is open with the bottom facing away from me and the dark slide toward me. When the film goes in, the notch is on my right.

Developing: in trays (scratches? gloves?), Combiplan (discontinued), Yankee tank (uneven development risk), metal frames dunk tank (hard to source in the EU), selfmade film tanks and holders, rotary tubes, MOD54 in a Paterson thank, any other neat tips?

I almost always use trays. Emulsion side down. Calm, steady, deliberate movements. Rotate the stack of negs 1/4 turn every minute. Use a larger tray than your film. I always presoak my film. Place film in presoak one sheet at a time, making sure not to get any sheets wet before they go into the presoak
The questions I forgot?


Thanks for helping me and the other newbies out.

That's what I do. Everyone here has a different method I am sure. Each works well. The key is to get comfortable with what works for you.

[AtlantaTerry]

Anyone got any neat tricks to keep dust down when loading film?

I use a ZeroStat (anti-static gun) that was designed to use with LP records.
These can be purchased used on eBay from time to time. I have paid anywhere from US $15 to $30.
https://www.google.com/#q=zero+stat

Film with notches at bottom left when the film older is oriented like it is on the camera means emulsion is front, right?

I never hold my sheet film holders so the film notch is at bottom left. But, yes, if you do the emulsion is correct. (I hold them so I can touch the notch with my right index finger at the upper right.)

How I load my sheet film holders:
Before anything, in a different room, I clean the sheet film holders with a new soft paint brush and one of my ZeroStat anti-static guns. I also use 1x1 inch pre-saturated alcohol squares, canned air and anti-static cloths from computer/HiFi stores. The cleaned holders go into freezer Zip bags to keep them as dust-free as possible. I also clean the exterior of the sheet film box to remove any dust. If the box of film is new, I use a sharp knife to cut any seals then I wrap the box with a rubber band.

In the darkroom (my bathroom) I wipe down all of the surfaces with a damp cloth while I am running a hot shower so the steam will pull much of the dust out of the air.

I place a stack of the film holders on the counter and the unopened box of film to my right. I have a special place reserved where the loaded holders will go. I have a pair of scissors available to cut open the sealed pouch of film.

I place the sheet film holders on the work surface so they are pointing sideways from my body in a left to right orientation.

When I am ready, I turn out the lights and open the film box. I place the lids next to the box so I can put the interleaving paper sheets in it.

I cut open the sealed pouch of film and remove the top piece of cardboard, if one is present. I place the cardboard in the film box.

Then I turn the film box 90 degrees and place the pouch in it so the pouch is sticking out to my right. This way the film is sticking up in the air at a slight angle which makes it a bit easier to find in the dark.
Move the dark slide to my left, open the end flap that is facing to my right.
Place my left thumb on the top edge of the sheet film holder.
Press the end flap down with my left index finger.
Insert a new sheet of film into the holder.

I then test two things:
(1) can I feel the film notches on the right corner with the index finger of my right hand?
(2) if I lift the end of the sheet film, does it remain in place? If it does not then I missed sliding the film under one or both of the guides that are on the long edges of the film. (If the film is not under the guides then your photo will be out of focus and/or the dark slide will jam after you take the photo. Either way, your photo will be ruined.)

Close the flap.
Slide the dark slide shut.
Place the loaded holder in a stack with other loaded film holders.

Rinse and Repeat

When the lights come back on, I use a black Sharpie marker to indicate how many sheets of film were removed.

The loaded film holders go back into the freezer Zip bags. Then the bag is marked with the type and brand of film, batch number and expiration date. The bag is then pressed to remove most of the air and the seal is pressed closed.

Developing: in trays (scratches? gloves?), Combiplan (discontinued), Yankee tank (uneven development risk), metal frames dunk tank (hard to source in the EU), selfmade film tanks and holders, rotary tubes, MOD54 in a Paterson thank, any other neat tips?

I use:
CombiPlan (works quite well for small runs)
Kodak #4A stainless steel sheet film holders with a half-dozen 102 ounce plastic tubs from a Dollar Tree store (more efficient for a large number of sheets of 4x5" film)

To dry:
1. a Nylon rope with stainless steel "S" hooks that I hang in the shower. One end goes over the shower head and the other end attaches to the towel rack. After I purchased the rope, I tied knots in it every inch or so to prevent the sheets of film from sliding down and bumping the next one. If I used the Kodak #4A sheet film holders to develop the film, then I hang them from the rope and hook each one on next to a knot. If I used the CombiPlan then I use wooden clothes pins to hang the wet negatives up to dry.

2. since there are others in my household who may want to use the shower before my negatives are dry I had to come up with a different way to dry my negatives. So I looked around and found a large rectangular plastic tub sold in office supply stores that normally hold documents and files. The Kodak #4A sheet film racks suspend quite well across the span. I line the bottom with micro-fiber cloths from the Dollar Store so the PhotoFlo drops are absorbed. After I place the wet film into the tub, I place the lid that came with it over the tops of the sheet film racks. This allows some air to circulate to allow the film to dry, otherwise the humidity inside would be so high that the film could take days to dry.

The questions I forgot?

I use "Steam Distilled" water for both the final rinse and the PhotoFlo bath. This is because normal tap water may be drinkable but it usually has minerals or particles in it that you don't want dried into your film emulsion.

Mark your sheet film holders in such a way that you will be able to keep track of each exposure. I number the film holders then label each side either "A" or "B". I use Brother P-Touch labels but other folks use a small paint brush or other marker.

Get from an office supply store a sturdy notebook that is about the size of a sheet film holder. When each sheet of film is exposed make notes as to the lens, shutter speed, f/stop, sheet film holder number and side "A" or "B". After developing, I record the chemistry, temperature, times, etc.

I like to make at least two exposures for each photo using an "A" and a "B" side of the holder. Then later in the darkroom I first develop my "A" sides then in a second run I develop my "B" sides. That way if there is a darkroom disaster, I will mess up only half of my work, not all of it. :)

After the film is dried, I use an ultra sharp point Sharpie Marker to write in a blank area on the edge the sheet film holder number and the side "A" or "B". That way if I discover a problem with the sheet of film such as fog, scratches, etc. then I know which film holder may be at fault. You can also use an ultra fine India ink marker from an art supply store.

Get an instant read thermometer made for darkroom use, not kitchen use. This is because the kitchen type is made for temperatures far higher than you would want in a darkroom.