Click stops not clicking on Componon S

[Robert Oliver]

I just received a 150mm Schneider Componon S from the bay... Glass is perfect.

The click stops aren't working... Just turns smoothly no matter which position the switch is in.

Anyone knows if this is an easy fix? If not I will just make a small led flashlight to light it up (since it's not illuminated anyway)

[IanG]

I have a 135mm Componon S that's similar, mine came off a roll-head printer turret where all the lenses were preset/calibrated and locked to a give the same exposure (time) by a Durst technician. I'd quite like to have click stops.

Ian

[John Layton]

Same here! My 100mm Companon S began to lose its clicks quite some time ago - and now they're barely there. I'd love to have the clicks back - and am usually pretty good at DIY stuff - but so far I'm still scratching my head with this one! At any rate...if anyone could chime in on the best way to take this apart and fix the clicks - that would be great!

[monsta]

is it not like the rodagons, you can pull the aperture ring out for stopless or push it back in for clickstops?

[ic-racer]

The ball and spring can get gummed up. No big deal to take it apart. Just don't lose the ball or spring, otherwise you will be without the click stops forever. I will say that on my 150mm Componon-s, even after cleaning the grooves, the ball and the spring, the click stops were still weak.

Expect to find something similar to this when you take it apart.
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[Robert Oliver]

Thank you!


The ball and spring can get gummed up. No big deal to take it apart. Just don't lose the ball or spring, otherwise you will be without the click stops forever. I will say that on my 150mm Componon-s, even after cleaning the grooves, the ball and the spring, the click stops were still weak.

Expect to find something similar to this when you take it apart.
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[Robert Oliver]

The only lensboard that I have that fits is recessed, which makes it really hard to see the line.

It wouldn't be a problem with working click stops, but what a PITA without!

[Bob Salomon]

On a Rodagon you pull the ring out and rotate it to set the preset aperture and then push the ring back in. To engage or disengage the click stops you slide the switch.

[BrianShaw]

The ball and spring can get gummed up. No big deal to take it apart. Just don't lose the ball or spring, otherwise you will be without the click stops forever. I will say that on my 150mm Componon-s, even after cleaning the grooves, the ball and the spring, the click stops were still weak.


... or someone previously took it apart and the ball/spring became lost.

[Robert Oliver]

On a Rodagon you pull the ring out and rotate it to set the preset aperture and then push the ring back in. To engage or disengage the click stops you slide the switch.

Not working on mine. With switch engaged I get the slightest hint of a click, but not enough to set the aperture by. Trying to figure out how to get barrel apart. Looks like this retaining ring is my only option.

I'm going in....

129885

[Robert Oliver]

129888129889

Cleaning the gunk out of the grooves...

[Robert Oliver]

Cleanup barely helped... Seems whatever engages the grooves on the brass was removed or it wore off.

[BrianShaw]

Isn't a ball bearing supposed to be sitting on the dimple of the metal spring (10 oclock position) in your second pic?

[Robert Oliver]

I'm not sure...

When you slide the switch, it moves a brass shim up a ramp. Not sure what is supposed to click.

There definitely weren't any springs or bearings in there when I opened it up. I have a feeling there is some spring steel that is missing.

[Bernard_L]

I had this problem on a 80mm Componon from a yard sale. Turns out the small steel ball was missing. That is sitting on a leaf spring (phosphor bronze??) and engages radial v-grooves. Selected a ball from a ball point pen, "bold" writing (~1mm diameter ball). Free the ball from the pen tip using a jeweler's file. Clean thoroughly in lighter fluid or similar. Epoxy where it belongs: a small depression in the leaf spring; wait for epoxy to cure; re-assemble: works!

[BrianShaw]

Most times the ball is not epoxied in place, but sitting in a dimple, or in a "tube" with a spring behind it.

[BrianShaw]

p.s. I never thought of salvaging a ball from a ball point pen, but it makes sense. I keep looking in the carpet beneath my work bench when I need one. There must be at least 2 of them there at this time. :o

[Robert Oliver]

I had this problem on a 80mm Componon from a yard sale. Turns out the small steel ball was missing. That is sitting on a leaf spring (phosphor bronze??) and engages radial v-grooves. Selected a ball from a ball point pen, "bold" writing (~1mm diameter ball). Free the ball from the pen tip using a jeweler's file. Clean thoroughly in lighter fluid or similar. Epoxy where it belongs: a small depression in the leaf spring; wait for epoxy to cure; re-assemble: works!

I didn't see any place for a ball bearing to go... Don't see an indent.

[Robert Oliver]

...durrr!

I get it now, I was thinking the shim moved up the ramp engaged the click stop. Took a bit of reverse thinking to realize it disengages it.

Now to find a ball-point pen. Maybe I will ask Siri where to find one.

Thanks!


I had this problem on a 80mm Componon from a yard sale. Turns out the small steel ball was missing. That is sitting on a leaf spring (phosphor bronze??) and engages radial v-grooves. Selected a ball from a ball point pen, "bold" writing (~1mm diameter ball). Free the ball from the pen tip using a jeweler's file. Clean thoroughly in lighter fluid or similar. Epoxy where it belongs: a small depression in the leaf spring; wait for epoxy to cure; re-assemble: works!

[Robert Oliver]

Harvested a ball bearing from a donor ball point pen, and installed it in the hole.... Seems like it might be a little bit too small. Can't wait to test it after it cures.

Not sure I would have engineered it the same way!

129976

[Bernard_L]

Seems like it might be a little bit too small
Also looks small to me. If too small you will have some "play" at each "stop". If necessary, you can dissolve the epoxy in acetone. To check the size before gluieng, place it in one of the v-grooves and look sideways with a loupe (or reversed camera lens). Between 1/2 and 2/3 of the sphere should be above "ground level".
Best of luck.

[Robert Oliver]

It was too small, pushed down through the hole...


Also looks small to me. If too small you will have some "play" at each "stop". If necessary, you can dissolve the epoxy in acetone. To check the size before gluieng, place it in one of the v-grooves and look sideways with a loupe (or reversed camera lens). Between 1/2 and 2/3 of the sphere should be above "ground level".
Best of luck.

[Manneke]

Had this same 150 mm Componon. My understanding is that for the engagement there is an embossed protrusion in the copper plate that simple wears out over time. Mine had clear signs of wear (nice bright copper surface) and a small hole in the middle where the metal was completely worn. Cleaned it and put a drop of solder there that pretty much copied the shape, and therefore the function of the original. Simple fix that won't last as well as the original as tin softer then copper. I guess originally Schneider would have replaced the copper plate as a consumable. I'm somewhat surprised though that they used a solution that clearly didn't last well in a professional environment where the aperture may be changed many times a day, meaning continuous wear. The solution with a steel ball bearing + spring is much more permanent.