hazardsg
20-Jan-2015, 07:16
I'm starting to put together a parts list for a UV light box for alternative process printing. Here's a list of the parts I've been looking at.
2x Fulham Workhorse 5 WH5-120-L Ballast (each should handle 4 lamps)
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/2169/BF-WH5120LC.html
F15T8/BL - 15W T8 Fluorescent Blacklight Bulb
http://www.topbulb.com/f15t8-bl-15w-t8-fluorescent-blacklight-philips-13036-9-sylvania-21623?gclid=CjwKEAiAlvilBRC5ueCzkpXb4kgSJADxop1BMuVV7BMvFlpUjp-POXxtJIZHmu7r1Hcu6C4m6K0nSRoCsO3w_wcB
16x Leviton 23651 - T8
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/5310/SOCK-L23651.html
I am currently planning on contact printing 8x10 negatives. I was thinking that would be nice to build a unit that could handle 11x14 so that I have a little room to expand if I decide to either print larger digital negatives or build/buy an 11x14 camera.
Will 8 18" bulbs evenly illuminate an 11x14 area?
I see that the ballasts need to be grounded. I've never messed with fluorescent lights. Do the sockets for the bulbs also have to be grounded? I think I've seen some examples that have the sockets screwed to a thin metal plate.
Do I need to add cooling to the box? If so, do I need to cool the ballasts, the bulbs, or both?
I am thinking about using baltic birch plywood for the actual box. Any idea on what distance the bulbs will need to be away from the contact print frame to achieve even illumination while getting the fastest printing speed?
Am I missing any components for the basic circuit for the lights? The manufacturer has wiring diagrams for the ballast and bulb combination I am planning on using. I will also probably use a regular light switch that lights up when on.
I know some of this might come down to trial and error on my part. I just want to try to avoid any costly mistakes before I start buying materials.
Thank you for any help,
Steven
2x Fulham Workhorse 5 WH5-120-L Ballast (each should handle 4 lamps)
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/2169/BF-WH5120LC.html
F15T8/BL - 15W T8 Fluorescent Blacklight Bulb
http://www.topbulb.com/f15t8-bl-15w-t8-fluorescent-blacklight-philips-13036-9-sylvania-21623?gclid=CjwKEAiAlvilBRC5ueCzkpXb4kgSJADxop1BMuVV7BMvFlpUjp-POXxtJIZHmu7r1Hcu6C4m6K0nSRoCsO3w_wcB
16x Leviton 23651 - T8
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/5310/SOCK-L23651.html
I am currently planning on contact printing 8x10 negatives. I was thinking that would be nice to build a unit that could handle 11x14 so that I have a little room to expand if I decide to either print larger digital negatives or build/buy an 11x14 camera.
Will 8 18" bulbs evenly illuminate an 11x14 area?
I see that the ballasts need to be grounded. I've never messed with fluorescent lights. Do the sockets for the bulbs also have to be grounded? I think I've seen some examples that have the sockets screwed to a thin metal plate.
Do I need to add cooling to the box? If so, do I need to cool the ballasts, the bulbs, or both?
I am thinking about using baltic birch plywood for the actual box. Any idea on what distance the bulbs will need to be away from the contact print frame to achieve even illumination while getting the fastest printing speed?
Am I missing any components for the basic circuit for the lights? The manufacturer has wiring diagrams for the ballast and bulb combination I am planning on using. I will also probably use a regular light switch that lights up when on.
I know some of this might come down to trial and error on my part. I just want to try to avoid any costly mistakes before I start buying materials.
Thank you for any help,
Steven