Processing Ilfochrome Fiberbase Prints

[Peter Hruby]

Hi all,

I red some forum questions about processing fiberbased prints. I do like Ilfochrome Classic , you might agree or disagree with me, but the real question is to processing it right. I do a special project where my intention is to make 4X10 direct to ciba prints. Now we will get to a process. I need to process it right. Every picture is an original, so you might imagine that I need a good processor to eliminate as much error as I can. There are few choices on th market such as JOBO, ILFORD CAP-40, FUJIMOTTO and others I don't know about them.

I need your help.

I need to find a processor I can process Cibachrome prints 4x10 properly, also occasionaly I will do some film sheets 8x10 or prints 8x10 to 20x24.

Also if you have any other suggestions about other papers I can print directly on them, let me know their pros and cons.

I know some cibachrome gurus are here and they might give me some very quality inormation. Thank you all for your contribution.

Peter Hruby.

[bob carnie]

Peter
You can use a Jobo rotary processor to process cibachrome, as well this processor will allow you to do b&w, RA4 , c41, E6,and black and white film.
I would suggest this is a multi purpose machine with a very good track record that I believe a lot of photographers are using.

[JanE]

My experiences of processing Cibas is that for highest quality you want to use the low contrast CF1k polyester based paper. (In fact, there's never exist any fiberbased Ciba-material)

To avoid any crossowers in colors the Ilfochrome process P-3 or P-3X shoud be used.
The tabletop machines uses the process P-30, operating at lower temps, directed merely for amateur use and will not give you eg. a linearized grayscale.

Jan, Finland.

[Peter Hruby]

You are right Jan, there is no FB Cibachrome, thank you for making correction in my posting.
Regarding Bob's answer, there are some cons to a JOBO processor poster earlier, especially that JOBO's are not recomended for Cibachromes and that cleaning and drying of drum must be very extensive to avoid any stains.

Can anybody correct me if I am wrong what I said?
Thank you both for contributions.

[Nick_3536]

I use the drums for RA-4. If I was making a lot of prints it would drive me crazy. Now I have three drums that handle my normal size [8x10] so it's okay but it's not my idea of a high volume setup. If you are printing enough I'd consider a Jobo for film and a print processor for the prints. Not the cheapest method.

[bob carnie]

Peter
I know of many who use a jobo for printing , as suggested it is slow and more drums would be helpful.
If you can find a Cap 30 (i think that is the right name) you can do upto 9 16x20 or up to 20 11x14 before changing the chemicals
I own a P3xexel 30 inch machine , but before this processor I have used a cap 30.
If you are printing one image and evening a Jobo is totally usable and price consideriate as as I have stated many use this method with great results.

[Peter Hruby]

What about Fujimoto? Does anybody has experience with this processor?

[JanE]

Take extreme care if you use Cibachrome processes in machines not designed for this. The bleach component of any silver-dye-bleach is very acid, and may in worst case dissolve the tin around electric components and make your hobby rather electric........

Otherwise the Ciba-process is rather kindly. The exposures and temperature tolerances are not as critical as in negative work. One problem, also in other processes, is to avoid streaks and other ununiform buildings in uniform areas. Eg. the older CAP has pigged bottom plates that has caused a lot of troubles with streaks and tangles.

[Peter Hruby]

Ok, so, if I would make lets say 10 - 20 prints a month, would be jobo cpp model sufficient for my scope? Would be quality of processing acceptable by other professionals?

That is the real question I would aks here...

also, the next step is drying of prints. I know Ilfochrome is not flat whan you dry it on clips... What are my choices? Is any good print dryers for polyester based Ilfos?

[Asher Kelman]

Ok, so, if I would make lets say 10 - 20 prints a month, would be jobo cpp model sufficient for my scope? Would be quality of processing acceptable by other professionals?

That is the real question I would aks here...

also, the next step is drying of prints. I know Ilfochrome is not flat whan you dry it on clips... What are my choices? Is any good print dryers for polyester based Ilfos?

So are there any answers to Peter's last question on drying?

Asher

[Drew Wiley]

A very old thread ... Ilfochrome FB???(actually RC) "Pearl" paper isn't even made any more. The polyester-based glossy Ilfochrome most people are familiar with is
best air-dried on screens, and color balance should not be evaluated until the prints
are completely dry.

[Asher Kelman]

A very old thread ... Ilfochrome FB???(actually RC) "Pearl" paper isn't even made any more. The polyester-based glossy Ilfochrome most people are familiar with is
best air-dried on screens, and color balance should not be evaluated until the prints
are completely dry.

Drew,

Thanks for noticing and coming in to help on this old, old thread!

Is there a specific configuration for these screens? I need to dry 8x10 and 20x24 Ilfochrome prints.

Thanks,

Asher

[Drew Wiley]

Every few years after the cats have swatted at moths outside the window screens and mosquitos manage to get in, I order up a batch of new screens for the house plus a few extra for the darkroom. Have them made the same way (except sizes), all with fiberglass netting and a relatively stiff perimeter frame. For 20X24 prints I use a nominal 24x28 screen size. For really big prints I have a few fiberglass and aluminum screen doors on hand, left over from the door&window warranty dept of the co where I work as a buyer. I prefer to air dry prints, but have a heat gun set on low heat for drying test strips. Or a hair dryer would do.

[Asher Kelman]

Every few years after the cats have swatted at moths outside the window screens and mosquitos manage to get in, I order up a batch of new screens for the house plus a few extra for the darkroom. Have them made the same way (except sizes), all with fiberglass netting and a relatively stiff perimeter frame. For 20X24 prints I use a nominal 24x28 screen size. For really big prints I have a few fiberglass and aluminum screen doors on hand, left over from the door&window warranty dept of the co where I work as a buyer. I prefer to air dry prints, but have a heat gun set on low heat for drying test strips. Or a hair dryer would do.

Emulsion up, I presume?

[Drew Wiley]

Emulsion up. And just remember that Ilfochrome has a very fragile surface, especially
when wet. That's why I don't like to force dry it - bits of lint or whatever can get stuck in the soft gelatin overcoat. Type C resin-coated prints are more forgiving in this respect.

[Asher Kelman]

Drew,

You're very helpful indeed! Thanks! Do you have an air cleaner in the room to deal with dust?

Asher

[Drew Wiley]

I have several air cleaners and more than one darkroom. My film cleaning station is next to an old industrial style air cleaner which contains a bank of copper plates which
electrostically charge dust particles then attract them to the copper. It's very effective, but this kind of gear would be quite expensive to make nowadays. Most air
cleaners today are simply air-circulating filters, but they work reasonably well and are
affordable.

[Asher Kelman]

I have several air cleaners and more than one darkroom. My film cleaning station is next to an old industrial style air cleaner which contains a bank of copper plates which
electrostically charge dust particles then attract them to the copper. It's very effective, but this kind of gear would be quite expensive to make nowadays. Most air
cleaners today are simply air-circulating filters, but they work reasonably well and are
affordable.
Well, that's another simple matter to deal with. I have to think of the fact that the air vents are bringing in unfiltered air! So I need then to take care of that too.

Asher

[tgtaylor]

You may want to check out The Complete Guide to Cibachrome Printing by Peter Krause & Henry A. Shull, Ziff-Davis Publishing (1980). I picked-up a copy thinking that one day I would like to try Cibachrome since I have shot literally thousands of slides in the past.

Thomas

[Asher Kelman]

You may want to check out The Complete Guide to Cibachrome Printing by Peter Krause & Henry A. Shull, Ziff-Davis Publishing (1980). I picked-up a copy thinking that one day I would like to try Cibachrome since I have shot literally thousands of slides in the past.

Thomas

Thanks, TG,

Mine is on its way to be read cover to cover! :)

Asher