Kirk Gittings
17-Jul-2014, 07:32
So for anyone that is interested that uses BTZS tubes.
I came up with this to help solve the problem of getting quick and even agitation on the second bath of Sandy King's "Two-Bath" Pyrocat method of development, http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?114867-Two-Bath-Pyrocat. However I find it useful anytime I use the tubes.
For Two-Bath Pyrocat Development:
Getting that second bath quickly and evenly distributed can be a problem if you are trying to do all 6 tubes as they are awkward to hold. And it is CRITICAL to even development. So this is what I put together and it works well. I use it with two sets of BTZS caps filled and ready to go (http://www.viewcamerastore.com/4x5-btzs-film-tube-cap-only/). After the first bath run normally spinning the tubes in the water bath tray, I turn off the lights remove the first bath cap and carefully screw the tube into the second bath cap and then place it carefully into the tray. I say carefully as you want to avoid movements that would splash the chemistry around and start chemical action on the bottom edge of the film in the tube. Then I simply pick it up carefully with my hand on the bottom, hit the timer, put my other hand over the top and shake it up and down. This is absolutely the key part of the process. I shake it up and down vigorously for 10-15 seconds and then go into the water bath and regular spinning agitation to finish it. It gives very even development with two bath development which has been an issue for me with BTZS tubes.
For Any Developer:
I also use it with normal PCHD or any developer to hold the tubes and do the initial agitation before dumping them in the water bath. All in all a handy, bulletproof and cheap DIY item. I basically use it in some form every time I develop film in the BTZS Tubes. After loading the film and putting the cap on I place them directly in the tray which avoids accidentally knocking them over as I load more tubes.
Construction:
To fit 4x5 BTZS tubes, it is made from 6-1 1/2" PVC couplings super glued (gel) together with the "Stops" at bottom being a 1/4" cut on a table saw from a scrap piece of 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe (the thick pipe) itself glued with PVC glue. You need to rasp the ridge out of the middle inside of the coupling to get the tubes to sit all the way down in the coupling. It's best to completely remove this ridge so the tubes go in and out easily-especially when you go to dump them in the water bath. To remove this I used a course half round file and took a few minutes-a round rasp would probably be quickest. The green glue was what I had on hand but it helps show the construction. It cost me maybe $15 and took about 1/2 an hour. When the whole thing set and dried I placed it on a sheet of 80 or 120 sand paper and squirreled it around till the bottom was perfectly flat.
I came up with this to help solve the problem of getting quick and even agitation on the second bath of Sandy King's "Two-Bath" Pyrocat method of development, http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?114867-Two-Bath-Pyrocat. However I find it useful anytime I use the tubes.
For Two-Bath Pyrocat Development:
Getting that second bath quickly and evenly distributed can be a problem if you are trying to do all 6 tubes as they are awkward to hold. And it is CRITICAL to even development. So this is what I put together and it works well. I use it with two sets of BTZS caps filled and ready to go (http://www.viewcamerastore.com/4x5-btzs-film-tube-cap-only/). After the first bath run normally spinning the tubes in the water bath tray, I turn off the lights remove the first bath cap and carefully screw the tube into the second bath cap and then place it carefully into the tray. I say carefully as you want to avoid movements that would splash the chemistry around and start chemical action on the bottom edge of the film in the tube. Then I simply pick it up carefully with my hand on the bottom, hit the timer, put my other hand over the top and shake it up and down. This is absolutely the key part of the process. I shake it up and down vigorously for 10-15 seconds and then go into the water bath and regular spinning agitation to finish it. It gives very even development with two bath development which has been an issue for me with BTZS tubes.
For Any Developer:
I also use it with normal PCHD or any developer to hold the tubes and do the initial agitation before dumping them in the water bath. All in all a handy, bulletproof and cheap DIY item. I basically use it in some form every time I develop film in the BTZS Tubes. After loading the film and putting the cap on I place them directly in the tray which avoids accidentally knocking them over as I load more tubes.
Construction:
To fit 4x5 BTZS tubes, it is made from 6-1 1/2" PVC couplings super glued (gel) together with the "Stops" at bottom being a 1/4" cut on a table saw from a scrap piece of 1 1/2" schedule 40 pipe (the thick pipe) itself glued with PVC glue. You need to rasp the ridge out of the middle inside of the coupling to get the tubes to sit all the way down in the coupling. It's best to completely remove this ridge so the tubes go in and out easily-especially when you go to dump them in the water bath. To remove this I used a course half round file and took a few minutes-a round rasp would probably be quickest. The green glue was what I had on hand but it helps show the construction. It cost me maybe $15 and took about 1/2 an hour. When the whole thing set and dried I placed it on a sheet of 80 or 120 sand paper and squirreled it around till the bottom was perfectly flat.