Aloha from Kauai!

[aFeinberg]

Aloha all!

Was directed to the forums by a fellow photog who I was poking for some info. Full time landscape photog and have been starting to get the film itch. More for my nude and portrait work.

Having never shot 'real' film (yes I'm a big younger) the recommendation was to start with a 4x5 system...looking at a Toyo 45AII and the Chamonix 45N2 45N-2. Open to other thoughts as well.

Looking forward to making the journey and being a part of the community :)

Thanks in advance for information past and present.

Aaron

[rich815]

Welcome. Film is a very, very different workflow especially large format. But you're at the right place.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Aloha from O'ahu!

[Alan Gales]

Welcome to the forum, Aaron. It's too bad there are no good landscapes to shoot where you live. :rolleyes:

You lucky dawg!

[Drew Wiley]

Welcome. Film and printing paper contain gelatin, so store your materials where they get good air circulation and are least likely to develop mildew under your humid
conditions. A film freezer is nice to have, especially since you'll probably have to buy film from here on the mainland. I was Kauai a year ago. Pretty wild weather, so
I only bagged a few 4x5 shots, but they were keepers. A have quite a number from earlier years. The Toyo is a decent camera but rather limited to mid focal length
lenses.

[Harley Goldman]

Welcome, Aaron. Get lost on your way to NPN?;)

I am partial to the Chamonix camera. I have owned 4 or 5 different cameras and the Cham is by far my favorite. Very light, rigid and versatile, with a great extension capability for a field camera.

[Preston]

Welcome, Aaron. Get lost on your way to NPN?;)

I am partial to the Chamonix camera. I have owned 4 or 5 different cameras and the Cham is by far my favorite. Very light, rigid and versatile, with a great extension capability for a field camera.

Welcome, Aaron!

I am in complete agreement with Harley. I have the 045N-2 and love it. With the extension attachment, you can easily use a 450mm. The camera will stand you good stead whether on a hike with it, or in the studio.

--P

[John Kasaian]

You get 5000 extra points if you can find a Nagaoka with the importer's decal on the rear standard address: King Street, Honolulu :cool:

[David A. Goldfarb]

Personally, I like a heavier, metal camera for Hawai'i, where one is often dealing with high winds and humidity can be an issue at times (though it's not as bad as most people think--usually 60-68% where I am in Honolulu, a bit wetter on Kauai, though there are a lot of variations depending on where you are on any given island). I remember taking my ultralight aluminum 8x10" Gowland for one of my first trips out here some years ago, and the wind frequently turned it into a box kite. My 4x5" Linhof Tech V is a much more practical camera for the environment. The Chamonix is a lovely lightweight camera, but in the islands, I'd say you're better off with the Toyo or a second-hand Linhof Technika 5 or later.

[Leszek Vogt]

Welcome to LF forum, Aaron. Miss the snorkeling on the No. end of the island...wow, it's been 17 yrs.

Les

[Alan Curtis]

Aloha, from a 1971 University of Hawai'i graduate. Welcome to the forum.

[aFeinberg]

Wow....definitely a forum that pays attention. :) Hey all!

@harley - shhhhh, dont tell them i've strayed ;)


Really appreciate the camera advice. Yes.....it's a wet/moldy/mildew environment out here. Which worries me. Hence I was thinking more metal than wood....but the Cham has gotten some great recommendations.

@david - great to know there are other hawaii based peeps out here :) agree with the weather and wind. i am a bit worried about the lack of movements on the toyo though.


Look forward to making the journey and sharing some images with you all.


Here is a recent 39 image stitch with my D800 to try and get a film look (NSFW);
LINK (http://33.media.tumblr.com/ab20daaf2817b557f7413a318450f02b/tumblr_n8d5mq8Dpk1t0zj0lo1_1280.jpg)

[David A. Goldfarb]

I used to know a landscapist out in Kaneohe with a Toyo 45A (not sure if it was the II). It seemed a perfectly serviceable camera, but if you're buying locally, be sure you don't get his, unless it's been refurbed. As I recall, it had seen a lot of wear. He's since moved back to the mainland, I gather, but I don't know if he took his camera with him.

The movements needed for landscape work are less than most people imagine. Front rise, fall, and a modest amount of tilt (rarely more than 5 deg) account for most of the situations you're likely to encounter in the landscape.

[aFeinberg]

Thanks again David.

My only concern is that this project will not be landscape work so much as portrait/nude (my nudes are mostly landscape). Just am afraid of limiting myself too much but given that i've never shot it maybe i'm being overly cautious. Toyo keeps coming up though :)

[Preston]

My only concern is that this project will not be landscape work so much as portrait/nude (my nudes are mostly landscape).

It's a slippery slope Aaron! :D I think you'll find LF very compelling for straight (non-nude) landscapes as well as your nude project.

I agree with David regarding movements, but I would add front swing and back tilt and swing to the list. This will give you the greatest flexibility if, or when your needs change. The Chamonix has these movements, and also includes front shift.

Enjoy the ride!

--P

[aFeinberg]

Thanks again :) The only hesitation I have on the Cham is the weight (too light?) and the wood (tropical environment)..... the debate continues :)

[David A. Goldfarb]

Looking at the Chamonix website, I see they offer their 4x5" F-1, which has asymmetric tilts and swings like on a Sinar P, and comes in teak and carbon fiber, which should be fairly resistant to the humidity. It's heavier than the N2, but still fairly light compared to a typical folding metal camera.

[Drew Wiley]

Tropical woods can be excellent in the tropics (no pun intended) - but it all depends on how competently they're sealed. Very expensive cameras like the Ebony are made either from true ebony or actual pattern-grade mahogany known for its dimensional stability (and difficult to acquire, requiring many years of curing first). In this modern era, composite laminates can hypothetically be quite good. My old Phillips folding 8x10 is an example at one of the first experiments in this direction - it's basically a laminate of fiberglass and custom expoxy-impregnated cherrywood, and has remained very stable. Lots of cheaper cameras wooden cameras are just looking to warp unless they have true marine sealers. Most are just some old-time wax & oil sealer which needs to be refreshed from time to time. Very dense woods like teak or real ebony are prone to splitting if they dry out. There should be some serious woodworkers in your part of the world who understand these
things. The other potential problem is mildew growing on sealers or inside bellows. Any sealer containing linseed oil is a magnet for mold.

[aFeinberg]

Good to know Drew.

Unfortunately where I live there is definitely a mold issue. So trying to attempt to take that in to account before pulling trigger.

Thoughts on black walnut? The Shen Hao HZX IIA goes that direction (and looks like a very reasonable camera).

Would a pelican case help store the camera better perhaps?

Also, should probably move this to the specific forum for it eh? :P

Thanks!
aF