Remote control fan speed

[cyrus]

Can any suggest an easy (not requiring an electrician) way to remotely control my darkroom fan speed? The fan is high up and out of reach, and sometimes it is far too loud at high speed so I'd like to reduce the speed -- I can do this using a fan speed controller but the wire connection of the controller to the fan is very inconvenient and in the way so I was considering wireless ways of controllng the fan speed. I know they make remote control switches that plug into sockets and into which the fan can be plugged, so it can be turned on and off remotely, but I want to be able to control the speed not just turn it off and on. Thanks.

[jp]

Depends on the type of motor in the fan. Some motors can't be controlled with a light dimmer. If it's loud because it's cheap or worn out, get a panasonic fan to replace it with. Some sort of L-shaped baffle box that can absorb sound but allow air to flow could help too.

[ROL]

I commiserate with you. That is exactly the problem I experienced with my Doran fan. I dealt with the noise by using a wired variable speed rheostat in the construction phase. As jp suggests, not all motors are amenable to dimmers. I look forward to learning of a (Drew's ;)) wireless solution.

[Drew Wiley]

Serious VC fans require dedicated wired-in speed controls. I have an inline Panasonic in the house for the bathrooms, which pulls the air rather than pushing it, and
it almost silent. But in the darkroom I installed a seriously large outdoor industrial squirrel cage, connected to the fume hood etc. Again, pulling rather than pushing the air, almost no noise, and a full range of speed control. Here in the fog (as in rainy or humid conditions elsewhere) one want about double the rated air movement
than for dry air, to overcome hydrostatic pressure. Plus chemicals are involved, so you'd want the ability to boost airflow dramatically in an emergency. Then your
exhuast ducts need to be light-tight, so will have bends or whatever than mandate even more CFM. You get the idea. Don't buy a toy fan, esp if color chemicals are
involved or strong acids.

[ic-racer]

I use a few of the Maestro remote IR light dimmers around the house. Looks like they make the same thing in a wireless fan motor speed control.
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/StandAloneControls/FanControls/MaestroIR/Overview.aspx

[cyrus]

I have discovered that much of my darkroom material can be purchased at pot growing stores including the fans, and yes it is controlled by a rheostat fan speed controller but a wired version, I was wondering about a non-wired way to control the fan speed thanks

[cyrus]

I saw te remote IR controllers but they are wall switches that require installation, i was hoping i could just plug the fan into some sort of remote controlled rheostat

[ROL]

I have discovered that much of my darkroom material can be purchased at pot growing stores including the fans

Why not make some real money and forget the photography – or is "darkroom material" really just a euphemism? :rolleyes:

[Jody_S]

Pretty much all bathroom fans plug into a socket inside the fan (if you remove the plastic grill, you will see the motor has a 6" wire with a plug on the end, and the casing has a receptacle). If you need a cheap remote control that plugs in, try looking at the old X10 home automation system (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/X10_%28industry_standard%29). You should be able to find a plug-in light dimmer module that will fit inside the housing with the grill in place, and you may find a master control that can be run from your phone. If not, there are handheld wireless remotes also.

There are of course X10 motor speed controllers for such things as ceiling fans, etc., but they are all hard-wired (I have not researched this recently). There is little reason for them to make a plug-in motor speed control for a home automation system. In my opinion (I am a master electrician), all but the most expensive of home bathroom fans (the quiet series) will run off a light dimmer, but it will buzz when you turn it quite low.

[Nathan Potter]

A variac would also work. For most low power fans a 2 to 5 amp variac would suffice. But you need access to the power line for the fan. That power line then simply plugs into the variac which delivers a variable voltage from 0 to 120 VAC. Access to the fan power line can be gotten at the fan or the on/off wall switch.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Amedeus]

Slightly off topic with respect to fan speed control but is anyone concerned about the potential explosive contents of the darkroom fumes ? What about the use of ether/alcohol when collodion mixing ? Anyone using explosion proof/ignition proof fans ?


You get the idea. Don't buy a toy fan, esp if color chemicals are
involved or strong acids.

[Luis-F-S]

Doran makes a speed control for their fans. It's solid state and not just a rheostat. It replaces the wall switch and will handle two 12" fans. It's pretty readily available from anyone who carries Doran equipment. One source is:

http://store.khbphotografix.com/Speed-Control-Unit-for-Doran-Darkroom-Fans.html

Luis

[Drew Wiley]

Amedeus - back in the 70's, when there were a lot of lacquer spray lines and even paint factories right here in the East Bay, I've seen entire bldgs leveled by lack
of expolsion-proof motors on exhuast systems, unless someone lit up a cigarette first! The worst explosion sent a shock wave so violent down the Bay unimpeded
that it shattered windows at the San Jose airport! But if you have that kind of fume concentration in a darkroom, you'll probably be dead already, just from smelling
the stuff, so will simply save your heirs a cremation bill if things do blow up! The whole idea of fooling with ether or collodion seems a bit nutty to me, and is probably
highly illegal in most Bay Area cities due to fire dept regulations. But explosion-proof fans are available (expensive); and you'd have to identify any other potential
spark sources too. Think of the Hindenburg.

[Amedeus]

You have a point about fume concentrations killing you first. I've recently set up an industrial production line with explosive and ignitable products and went through the Fremont fire dept and city hoops and then it dawned on my that I'd better take precautions for my dark room to be where collodion will be in use. I now do have a explosion proof/ignition proof fan with antistatic ducting to the outside, expensive, yes ... . Just never heard anyone else mention it in dark room or collodion context. It doesn't take much to get ether going ...


Amedeus - back in the 70's, when there were a lot of lacquer spray lines and even paint factories right here in the East Bay, I've seen entire bldgs leveled by lack
of expolsion-proof motors on exhuast systems, unless someone lit up a cigarette first! The worst explosion sent a shock wave so violent down the Bay unimpeded
that it shattered windows at the San Jose airport! But if you have that kind of fume concentration in a darkroom, you'll probably be dead already, just from smelling
the stuff, so will simply save your heirs a cremation bill if things do blow up! The whole idea of fooling with ether or collodion seems a bit nutty to me, and is probably
highly illegal in most Bay Area cities due to fire dept regulations. But explosion-proof fans are available (expensive); and you'd have to identify any other potential
spark sources too. Think of the Hindenburg.

[denverjims]

... I now do have a explosion proof/ignition proof fan with antistatic ducting to the outside, expensive, yes ... . Just never heard anyone else mention it in dark room or collodion context. It doesn't take much to get ether going ...

Have you thought about the switches? Plenty of spark opportunity there.

Although with all of the other hoops you've jumped through, I'm guessing you already have that covered.
Jim