Alphax #5 Flange

[Drew Bedo]

Hi all,

I need a mounting flange or ring for an Alphax #5 (Betax #5). Its a .1"/30 TPI thread. SK Grimes will make one for a lot of money. I am willing to barter a couple of rings and flanges that I have, plus $20 (SKG won't do that . . OK, I understand).

Any help?

[Drew Bedo]

Still looking —any help?

[Leigh]

Its a .1"/30 TPI thread.
Sorry, Drew, but that's not a standard thread definition.

A 0.1" thread pitch would be 10 Turns Per Inch (TPI).

A 30 TPI thread would be 0.0333" pitch.

Is this an American shutter or metric?

- Leigh

[Drew Bedo]

Thanks Leigh.

As near as I can correctly atate what I need is: 3" ID with 30tpi threads.

I have one of the Wollensak/Graflex 15" Tele-Raptars in an Alphax #5 shutter.

I need a flange or ring to mount the shutter and lens on a board.

I have a few flanges that are either too big or too small and I am willing to do a trade. I'll add some cash too if necessary. SK Grimes is the last resort but want ver $100 —which is probably fair for a custom piece.

[pasiasty]

You may try mounting like that:
111243

There a piece of plastic hose (about 12mm - 1/2" diameter) around the barrel and a steel band clip around. Rather 'a duct tape & WD40' solution, but it works.

[Drew Bedo]

Thanks! Looks workable.

How the world has changed though . . .it used to be "..with chewing gum and baling wire."

[Liquid Artist]

Several years ago I had heard that Loctite had a product designed to actually make threads jn objects. I am thinking it may work if you have a flange or something a little larger. You would want to follow the directions to the letter, or it may be tough taking the lens off after it's cured.

[Ari]

I have been told, a few times, that a hot glue application will hold the shutter to a board very well, and is very easy to remove as well.

[Leigh]

I have been told, a few times, that a hot glue application will hold the shutter to a board very well, and is very easy to remove as well.
You just contradicted yourself.

If it's easy to remove when wanted, it's also easily removed by external forces when you don't want to.

Hot-melt glue has no adhesive strength, certainly not adequate for a lens/shutter of any size.

=====

Mating threads in metal are the only way to accomplish a secure mount.

Remember a basic law of economics and business...
Threaded attachments are relatively expensive, particularly fine-pitch large diameter ones.
If a suitable lower-cost alternative existed, it would have been offered in the market decades ago.

- Leigh

[Ari]

Ok, maybe it wasn't clear.
The glue, when set, holds the shutter quite firmly.
Should it need to be removed, a utility knife will make short work of the glue.
Not as permanent or destructive as drilling holes in the lens board to accommodate screws, and a good solution when one is needed in a pinch, or in this case, when a flange is hard to find.

[Drew Bedo]

Thanks Everyone:

The Loctite sounds too . . .permanent for me, but is something to think about.

I might try the hot-glue gun. I have a ring that is just too big by 0.5 mm (measured by squinting).It will hold temporarily but lets go when wiggled. The Hot Glue approach may be good enough for a weekend fix. A cace when a "stop-gap" is actually a gap-filler.

It is just hard for me to part with $75 to $120 for a ring. I have a little bag of rings that are too small or too big and I'd rather do a swap plus cash (or lunch).

[Jon Shiu]

If your flange almost fits, you could wrap some tape around the threads and screw it in. I was thinking Teflon tape, but other types of tape would work also.

Jon

[Drew Bedo]

tTubing and Hose-Clamp,Loctite, Hot Glue, Tape. . . all good thoughts.

What about RTV? Any thoughts on bathroom caulking?

[Jon Shiu]

A bead of caulking on the back would work good too. You can get a small tube of Silicone II, which cures faster and stronger. Edit, except it's white and unpaintable. You would probably want a product you can paint black.

Jon

[Tin Can]

RTV is a mess to clean off later. Hot melt as noted, is not strong. Epoxy is a big mistake.

Hose clamp and rubber will be reliable.

I have often fit mismatch threads with generous amounts of carefully applied teflon thread tape. It does clean up upon removal.

[Jac@stafford.net]

RTV is a mess to clean off later. Hot melt as noted, is not strong. Epoxy is a big mistake.

Hose clamp and rubber will be reliable.

I agree with Randy. The adhesives and sealing materials mentioned are definitely not reliable. Before I got my two #5 flanges, quite by luck, I tried various push-on plumbing adapters and while called 3" fittings, they were not. As pasiasty suggested, a trip to a good hardware store will solve the problem for just a few dollars.

[Drew Bedo]

I have applied white Teflon tape to the shutter mounting threads and screwed down the retaining ring wearing a rubber glove for better grip. The whole assembly, shutter, lensnoard, ring seem swecure. To ensure against catastrophy if it ever comes loose, I have wrapped the rear lens barrel with a bit of electrical tape. if the ring ever does let go, the tape will still hold the lense in the board till it can be dismounted.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

[Tin Can]

Glad it worked, but I suggest Gaff tape instead of electrical tape next time.

I hang enlarger lenses upside down in odd enlargers with Gaff tape. Wonderful, expensive tape and a must for any photographer.

The TT will hold, I have done that on 100 PSI fuel lines, in an emergency lab setup, in a fireproof room with 3 automatic fire systems. Never on a car somebody drives.

Few know that antifreeze can ignite, I have put out a few antifreeze fires...We even had a few on video.

When a hose breaks and any fluid hits these 1600 degree exhaust pipes, it's makes an exciting moment. Time stands still. I couldn't resist posting our best engine pic. Sorry. It is film.

111875


I have applied white Teflon tape to the shutter mounting threads and screwed down the retaining ring wearing a rubber glove for better grip. The whole assembly, shutter, lensnoard, ring seem swecure. To ensure against catastrophy if it ever comes loose, I have wrapped the rear lens barrel with a bit of electrical tape. if the ring ever does let go, the tape will still hold the lense in the board till it can be dismounted.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Randy, I wrap the manifold and pipes. It moves the heat farther down the system, away from the engine.

Great illustrating photo!

[Tin Can]

Those are stainless headers and downpipe, then the whole system past the visible point is tightly wrapped in copper tubing with cold water flowing. Notice the 6" stack pipe in the upper rear is still dull red. We had tremendous heat problems in these tiny Dyno rooms. Huge negative pressure room exhaust fan system. Difficult to open the door. The 'Engineers' wanted max radiated heat hitting the head gasket edges. This is a 100 hour head gasket test, 50 hours max torque, 50 hours max HP with slight audible detonation. A new pushrod Ford could do this twice and it was done. The Ford Mods could do it 1600 hours!


Randy, I wrap the manifold and pipes. It moves the heat farther down the system, away from the engine.

Great illustrating photo!

[AtlantaTerry]

Talking about white silicone caulk isn't there a black product made for window insulation work that is black? I believe someone mentioned it on this Forum a while back. I assume a well-stocked hardware store would have some.

Another useful thing for filling in gaps is a bicycle inner tube. Free from the trash at most any bicycle repair shop. Cut pieces to accomplish the job.

[Jon Shiu]

There's black silicone sealant in the automotive section.

Jon

Talking about white silicone caulk isn't there a black product made for window insulation work that is black? I believe someone mentioned it on this Forum a while back. I assume a well-stocked hardware store would have some.

Another useful thing for filling in gaps is a bicycle inner tube. Free from the trash at most any bicycle repair shop. Cut pieces to accomplish the job.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Black silicone is absolutely inadequate to the task. It is pretty good for patching automotive door or window gasket leaks, and in photography for patching bellows leaks, but nothing else in photography.

[Drew Bedo]

"Taint broke—jes needs more duck-tape!"

[Ken Lee]

Closed at request of OP.