Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef How much time?

[Ron Marshall]

Although highly subjective I would appreciate some input.

I will be in Utah in early May 2015 and have 12 days to apportion between Arches, Canyonlands (Island and Needles) and Capitol Reef.

Never having been to any of these parks they all seem fantastic as are their descriptions in "Photographing the Southwest".

I plan to do day hikes but no backpacking, and will have a 4x4. So far, I plan three days in each.

Is there one that is worth more time than the others, given my time constraint?

If I can squeeze in a couple more days which of these parks deserves the extra time?

Any advice from those who have visited would be appreciated.

[dasBlute]

canyonlands is huge, close to arches, mostly looking down :)
arches is smaller, more people, lots of 'nooks' and crannies to explore.
Capital Reef has some really cool slot canyons, it's at least a travel day away from the other two
All three could provide a lot of work, maybe arches though...

[Kirk Gittings]

for the "right" light in all those places.....about 20 years :).

[Ron Marshall]

Have you ever visited the Moab area in Winter Kirk?

[Ron Marshall]

Thanks dasBlute.

Would you say Capitol Reef is worth three days, for the Cathedral valley loop? Are there some interesting day hikes to photogenic locations?

[Erik Larsen]

If you base yourself in the Moab area, you can visit arches and island in the sky easily. 5 minutes to arches, 30-40 minutes to islands in the sky. Each is spectacular in their own right but offer vastly different scenery. Arches is quite small as far as np's go but there is no end to the photo ops if you are willing to hike a bit. Islands in the sky is full of the monumental grand scenics and has little traffic compared to arches, but you can also hike into some interesting canyons for more intimate scenes. I couldn't pick a favorite between the two. If I were you I would take a day and scout both and decide how to to divide your time depending on the type of photos you are seeking. There are also a lot of spots up hwy 128 from Moab that are just as interesting photographically as well you could explore. I never really found the needles district as interesting, but in all fairness I haven't explored it nearly as much as arches or the maze or islands in the sky.

Capitol Reef is pretty cool as well and if you make it into cathedral valley you'll probably have the place to yourself. It doesn't look like much from the hwy, but once you get out and explore the back roads it is incredible. Keep an eye out for weather, if it's rained recently you might not get into the backcountry because of flash floods that make the washes you have to cross unpassable. It is remote and a tow truck would cost a fortune:)

I would give Capitol reef a few days depending on weather and then the rest of your time around the Moab area to split between arches and canyonlands. Who knows, maybe one of the spots will strike your fancy and you'll stay put for your entire stay and make a return trip to visit the rest...

If you are camping, it'll be difficult to find a spot at arches unless you are at the visitor center at the crack of dawn and get in line and hope there's spots available. There are numerous campgrounds upriver on blm land to camp. You'll be visiting in prime mountain biking season for the Moab area and camping can sometimes be difficult to find a spot but you'll probably be ok. If you need any questions answered before your trip, let me know I live about 85 miles from the Moab area and am quite familiar with the surrounding area.
Erik

[Kirk Gittings]

Have you ever visited the Moab area in Winter Kirk?

Yeah but its been a very long time.

[Ron Marshall]

Thanks Eric,

That is very helpful!

[Heroique]

If you have time left over, Comb Ridge (in the Natural Bridges Nat'l Monument area), above the access roads, is a lonely hiking area w/ spectacular ruins hidden in gigantic alcoves. Great for day hikes. If you’re good w/ a compass and topo map, it’s full of unexpected surprises. Even if you don’t come across the ruins when hiking up, the view along the spine of the ridge is, well, spine tingling. And a nice view for lunch.

Of the many excellent books about the area, I love these two the most – enjoyable, informative reading before you go, and while you’re there:

1) Anasazi: Ancient People of the Rock
--By Donald Pike
Photos by David Muench
Excellent overview of the area’s natural & Anasazi cultural history – w/ stunning photography, of course. Pike’s writing is graceful like Muench’s best photos.

2) In Search of the Old Ones
--By David Roberts
Adventurous first-hand account about exploring Anasazi Country w/ greater emphasis on the White Man’s treatment of the area since the Wetherill brothers’ 19th-C discovery of many of the monuments.

-----
(Okay, Edward Abbey's Desert Solitaire is my ultimate favorite – especially in view of your visit to Arches NP – but I'm going to believe that you've already read it, like a lot of the high desert SW landscape-wandering people here.)

[Ron Marshall]

Thank-you Heroique, I will look into your suggestion. I am aware of Abbey's book, but have not read it. I will now! Thanks.

[Chuck Pere]

You might look at Photographing The Southwest Vol 1 , http://www.amazon.com/Photographing-Southwest-Volume-1-Southern-Utah/dp/0916189120.

The overview of road conditions and trail difficulty could help you plan. I know for me there are places I wouldn't feel comfortable driving to and trails I'm in no shape to hike.

[Steve Goldstein]

You might also pop in to Deadhorse Point State Park, which is on a side road on the way in to the Islands in the Sky section of Canyonlands. It's day use only, $10 per vehicle. My wife and I found it a worthwhile diversion, both visually and photographically.

[AtlantaTerry]

I will be in Utah in early May 2015...

May 2015? I believe in planning ahead but isn't a year and a half a bit far off?

[Ron Marshall]

Thanks Steve. I didn't mention it but I already planned to include it with Island in the Sky, since it is so close and rated so highly by Laurent Martres.


You might also pop in to Deadhorse Point State Park, which is on a side road on the way in to the Islands in the Sky section of Canyonlands. It's day use only, $10 per vehicle. My wife and I found it a worthwhile diversion, both visually and photographically.

[Peter Collins]

I have been to Arches and Capitol Reef, but not Canyonlands. When I go back, I will likely skip Arches and re-visit Capitol Reef. I found it visually exciting, Arches less so, perhaps because I have seen more work done in Arches.

[Steve Sherman]

Having been to all three parks this past September I would agree they are all three subjective to ones preferences
That said, I would characterize the three locations in general terms this way. From Moab area Arches is closest with land scape interest "above" the horizon. Island in the Sky about 45 minutes away with huge and interesting amounts of erosion "below" the horizon (as mentioned don't miss Dead Horse Pt state park and as much of the Schafer Trail as you can take inThe Potash road opposite Arches is wonderful as well. The Island all all that comes with it is my favorite. The "Needles" section of Canyonlands NP is about 2 hous southwest of Moab and a it name indicates the cylinder type erosion is from the horizon up. Capital Reef NP for my sensibilities is more closer vignettes of various different erosions the Rt 24 going east towards Hanksville and then Moab is also very interesting with its erosion and light and dark patterns of crusted soil. Goblin Valley out of Hanksville on the way north and east towards Moab is worth a morning (not afternoon light). Happy Trails.

[Vaughn]

Just a bit over 1000 miles east of my doorstep to Arches NP...it is tempting, but I'll stick to heading to Death Valley at the end of February..."only" a little over 700 miles away and more to the Southeast. I have 9 days, hit Hwy 395; Alabama Hills, Eureka Valley, down to Death Valley, then do a southern end-around the Sierras and end up in Yosemite Valley by Friday Feb 28, then the last 500 miles home on Sunday. Subject to change, of course. If I were to head out towards Arches, I would be taking a short side trip to Goblin Valley...and would probably end up spending too much time there!

Never enough time! But your trip will be a good introduction to the areas for future trips. And I can see why you are planning ahead if you want to make the most of each day!

I have camped in the BLM camps along the Colorado when Arches is full. Nice, more shade, but pit toilets. Nice spring coming out of a cliff just down the road closer to Moab. Enjoy the planning process!

[Bill_1856]

This is the kind of thread that really makes the site worthwhile.

[Ron Marshall]

So far, in the southwest, I have made it to Zion, Bryce, North Rim GC and Coyote Gulch in Escalante. I enjoyed them all but Coyote Gulch the most. The backpack and camping were fun as well as the photography. Mostly I'm planning now because I have the time. In the past I have left it to the last minute and really had to scramble. This trip will give me a better idea of what Utah has to offer.

Thanks again for all of the great suggestions.

[Leszek Vogt]

Ron, if that was me, I'd spend most of the time in Capitol Reef. That might have to do with the fact that I've seen Arches and Canyonlands. The latter two are easily accessible and more people flock to them. I lacked the exploration time for the CF.

Not sure if anyone here had this type of raw experience, but one of the roads in Canyonlands that hugged this steep cliff was incredibly slick. It was after sizable rain and the road felt like butter (no asphalt). Going up or down was equally bad and there were no guardrails or even larger stones to prevent one from rolling 500' down. I was driving v. slow and not making any sudden moves....and I was hugging the cliff's side pretty much. At one point I stopped and my hatchback slowly slid sideways (with the slope of the road) and touching the wall of the cliff. I got out of there in one piece, but little shaken up by all of this. The hatchback had a minor side dent as a result of this. Not trying to put any fear into anyone....just hoping that road has been improved.

Les

[Ron Marshall]

Were you on the Shafer Trail by any chance? From the Youtube videos it's pretty hairy.
Ron, if that was me, I'd spend most of the time in Capitol Reef. That might have to do with the fact that I've seen Arches and Canyonlands. The latter two are easily accessible and more people flock to them. I lacked the exploration time for the CF.

Not sure if anyone here had this type of raw experience, but one of the roads in Canyonlands that hugged this steep cliff was incredibly slick. It was after sizable rain and the road felt like butter (no asphalt). Going up or down was equally bad and there were no guardrails or even larger stones to prevent one from rolling 500' down. I was driving v. slow and not making any sudden moves....and I was hugging the cliff's side pretty much. At one point I stopped and my hatchback slowly slid sideways (with the slope of the road) and touching the wall of the cliff. I got out of there in one piece, but little shaken up by all of this. The hatchback had a minor side dent as a result of this. Not trying to put any fear into anyone....just hoping that road has been improved.

Les

[Heroique]

...Not sure if anyone here had this type of raw experience, but one of the roads in Canyonlands that hugged this steep cliff was incredibly slick. It was after sizable rain and the road felt like butter (no asphalt)...

Les is right, that's the famous slick mud of canyon country, typical of the region after a rain, thanks to the special geology. It's like a thin veneer that's slick as ice, both for hiking boots and vehicle tires. The good news is that traction returns, say, 30 or 60 minutes after the cloud burst. "Slickrock country" indeed! It has stopped me a few times, even where it's level, both as a hiker and a driver.

[ross]

Capitol Reef is great (less crowds), and highway 12 from Torrey to Escalante is a must do at least some time in your life. The road from Boulder(UT) to Escalante is a visual orgasm!

And, as previously mentioned, Edward Abbey's, Desert Solitaire, is a must read and David Roberts book on the Anassazi (sp?) is pretty good too.

[Drew Wiley]

Either a week of hard driving or a lifetime of experiences. Do the week, get addicted, and keep coming back!

[Leszek Vogt]

Yes, that looks like the trail you mentioned, Ron. If I was to do this again, I'd make sure there was no rain for 3 days or in forecast (tough to do in the high elevations). That said, the views from there are incredible....especially around sunset (light bouncing off the red clay).

Les

[Drew Wiley]

Yeah, that would be a bit spooky if the clay were slick from rain. I grew up on one-lane roads just as precipitous, and still found that one less than tempting, since
granite and slickrock are completely different animals, and appropriately named.

[David Lobato]

A sense of discovery for oneself is something to take into consideration. It's not hard to find out of the way places without someone else's footprints, even within the parks mentioned here. I've traveled all over Utah since 1982 on some severely rough roads (I thought the Schafer Trail wasn't that hard, but I once drove down into a canyon exactly like the topography in the Roadrunner cartoons - it still makes me sweat). In canyon country flexibility is a must, but the opportunities for adventure are unlimited.

I haven't seen a mention here yet of one of the best resources - park rangers. They share great advice and knowledge of the places they really love. They know local trail and weather conditions in detail. Ask a backcountry ranger, they'll tell you more than you want to know about hiking and jeep trails. Be cautious yet curious, and you will have memorable experiences.

[biedron]

I've been to all three, and really like them all. Since Arches and the Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands are so close, there is a lot of visual "bang for the buck" in the Moab area. If you do go to Island in the Sky, and are up for the hike, I highly recommend a visit to "False Kiva". The view from inside the alcove is spectacular. The hike down is not too long, but steep with loose rocks in spots. Capitol Reef will certainly be less crowded than the others.

Although it may be a bit out of the way depending on your travel route, I would concur with the recommendation to drive UT 12 between Torrey, Boulder, and Escalante.

Bob

[Bodyslam]

Since you won't have time to finish any of them, make sure you get at least some time in all of them, so you are better prepared for when you come back. Which you will.

[Kirk Gittings]

Capitol Reef is great (less crowds), and highway 12 from Torrey to Escalante is a must do at least some time in your life. The road from Boulder(UT) to Escalante is a visual orgasm!

And, as previously mentioned, Edward Abbey's, Desert Solitaire, is a must read and David Roberts book on the Anassazi (sp?) is pretty good too.

and Craig Child's House of Rain.

[Peter York]

If Anasazi/Ancestral Puebloan ruins are your thing, then the Coomb Ridge and Cedar Mesa area is spectacular. Tassoni's A Hiking Guide to Cedar Mesa is well worth the investment, and many sites can be accessed with short hikes. It would be best to camp out of your 4x4 to explore this area, or stay at Natural Bridges NM, which is also spectacular. I think the east side of Cedar Mesa, up Snowflat Road, is worth the very rough drive. Accessing the area from Blanding is also possible.

If you are hoteling, then Moab is a perfect staging ground. I love Capitol Reef and am anxious to return to Cathedral Valley, but you might want to drop it in favor of a Moab-based trip. Or a Moab-Blanding based trip.

If you are shooting color, the light in all of these areas gets very harsh very fast, unless you are lucky enough to have rain or snow, or even clouds. I always tell friends that I have a love/hate relationship with SE Utah. Its beautiful until 1 hour after sunrise, and 1 hour before sunset, and dry, dusty, windy and rugged in between. I always miss the switchbacks of a Rockies hike when I'm trudging into a canyon or along the sandy floor.

[Heroique]

Great tips, Peter.

Plus an astonishing b/w filter tip:

One should try a forum search w/ the terms "green filter" + "canyon."

The overwhelming testimony suggests a match made in Heaven.

[Drew Wiley]

Moab itself tends to be a zoo, but then I've spent up to a week backpacking in certain canyons in that general area without seeing anyone else - and I do mean
places as spectacular as anything in any of the Natl Parks. Even in an insanely popular place like Arches about all you've gotta do is wander a little off the beaten
track to find solitude. Just don't get lost or forget to carry plenty of water. For a drive-thru area, Capitol Reef is wonderful, esp if you connect to it from Hwy 12
from the Bryce area. The desert panorama from up above in the aspens is particularly rewarding, esp in autumn, though ya gotta be conscious of timing snowstorms in all that area. One interesting thing about the Moab area is that you really aren't very far from islands of mtns, like the Abajos or San Juans. It's easy to commute, spending a day in slickrock and the nite in the aspens. The riverside drive along the Colorado between Moab and Cisco is also a rewarding easy drive,
right past the Fisher Towers. Be careful with any unpaved roads - even 4WD might not be enough if you encounter deep sand or wet slickrock. And in such cases,
above all carry lots of extra water and supplies, including a decent sleeping bag. Early on I discovered that sagebrush makes an excellent traction device beneath
tires spinning in the sand.

[Ron Marshall]

Early on I discovered that sagebrush makes an excellent traction device beneath
tires spinning in the sand.

Thanks. An excellent tip that I hopefully won't have to use.

[Kirk Gittings]

If Anasazi/Ancestral Puebloan ruins are your thing, then the Coomb Ridge and Cedar Mesa area is spectacular.

again read House of Rain.

[Merg Ross]

Speaking of literature, the Escalante area brings to mind the fascinating story of Everett Ruess. If unfamiliar with the tale of his life, look for "Everett Ruess, A Vagabond for Beauty" by W.L. Rusho. There is an Adams, Lange, and Weston connection. Perhaps you will find his remains!
Hope you have a wonderful experience in the region.