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dave clayton
24-Dec-2013, 09:42
So the wind was too much for my crown graphic and it took a tumble, the wood around the tripod mount has cracked and the mount area is now loose.
was thinking of using a small brass plate to cover the crack and strengthen it in that area or would that be over kill??
So does anybody have any idea's

Kevin Crisp
24-Dec-2013, 09:59
I'd peel off the leather and use a modern wood glue like Tite Bond I (not waterproof) or II (waterproof). Modern glues are literally stronger than wood. Just get the pieces together in the original orientation so you're not filling in space with the glue, and clamp it for a couple hours if at all possible. It will be good as new.

dave clayton
24-Dec-2013, 10:05
ideal i will just glue it in that instance saves mucking about

gleaf
24-Dec-2013, 10:46
For boat hull work we used Resorcinol glues. High temperature and water exposure tolerant. Comes in a powder add water mix. Big issue is getting it deep into the crack/s. ANd good clamping pressure. Closer the bond sides stronger the joint. Cam in a very small like 1/2 pint can or larger at the local lumberyard in Florida. (Many boats around).

John Bartley
24-Dec-2013, 11:39
I'd peel off the leather and use a modern wood glue like Tite Bond I (not waterproof) or II (waterproof). Modern glues are literally stronger than wood. Just get the pieces together in the original orientation so you're not filling in space with the glue, and clamp it for a couple hours if at all possible. It will be good as new.

I agree. This (above) is how I repaired the multiple cracks in the bed of my 8x10 Ansco. I slightly diluted the glue to make it a little bit runnier, then I used a syringe from Lee Valley Tools (can be had from many vendors) to get the glue deep down into the cracks.

Edit :: I also had a problem with worn out screw holes for the bed racks. I drilled them out, made Oak plugs using a plug drilling tool (also from Lee Valley), then glued the plugs into the holes. You'd need dynamite to get it apart now.

AtlantaTerry
24-Dec-2013, 11:45
What about "Gorilla Glue"?
http://www.gorillatough.com/

-›

Here is an eBay vendor selling stainless steel tripod sockets made in Germany.

eBay USA:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skink-tripod-socket-bush-1-4-3-8-for-Large-Format-DIY-Camera-strong-quality-/300614707753?pt=US_Lens_Boards&hash=item45fe086a29

eBay Europe:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skink-Stativplatte-Tripod-Plate-stainless-steel-for-heavy-DIY-Kamera-4x5-8x10-/290672979443?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item43ad75adf3

Patrick13
24-Dec-2013, 11:47
Can't over-emphasize the need to clamp the parts together strongly while whatever glue you choose cures.

On the other hand, a properly styled brass plate might look pretty cool on a graflex... Don't forget the second tripod mount point under the carrying handle if you do something artsy!

dave clayton
24-Dec-2013, 11:56
Ive used some wood glue i had kicking around to secure it so lets see if that holds

Kevin Crisp
24-Dec-2013, 12:25
Any wood glue will be fine. Elmer's White Glue would be fine.

You're basically gluing mahogany (I think it is plywood) which will be splintered some so you'll have lots of surface area for strength. Good alignment and clamping are key.

I've become a fan of the Tite-Bond glues after I glued two pieces of wood together for a test and then broke them apart and found that one side pulled the wood away from the other. Can't get stronger than that.

Jac@stafford.net
24-Dec-2013, 12:38
Gorilla glue expands while setting, no? Anyway, good old Elmer's is still my favorite - from habit.

An advantage to the old wood and animal glues is that it can be undone easily. If you ever have to break down an old wooden camera, remove metal parts and briefly nuke in the microwave. The parts pull away easily, even with arthritic hands.

Kevin Crisp
24-Dec-2013, 12:42
The expanding glues are very useful for some things and they sure stick to wood. But you'd have to carve or sand off the excess after it expands on this job, and you aren't really needing the gap-filling advantage of the glue since the pieces will be lined up well and gaps will be very, very small.

Last time I used it (Elmer's Ultimate Glue or something like that) on the cracked plastic of the lid on my chest freezer it expanded and handled the repair amazingly well. But for a camera bed, why bother with it?

Kuzano
24-Dec-2013, 12:46
What about "Gorilla Glue"?
http://www.gorillatough.com/

-›

Here is an eBay vendor selling stainless steel tripod sockets made in Germany.

eBay USA:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skink-tripod-socket-bush-1-4-3-8-for-Large-Format-DIY-Camera-strong-quality-/300614707753?pt=US_Lens_Boards&hash=item45fe086a29

eBay Europe:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skink-Stativplatte-Tripod-Plate-stainless-steel-for-heavy-DIY-Kamera-4x5-8x10-/290672979443?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item43ad75adf3

Second for Gorilla Glue... available at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace.

I glued a joint on some wood, much thicker than your camera joint. The when I disassembled the unit, I thought... hey, I'll just break that joint. Had to break it elsewhere.

It is also an expanding glue, foams into the joint and out the seams a bit.

Kuzano
24-Dec-2013, 12:52
So the wind was too much for my crown graphic and it took a tumble, the wood around the tripod mount has cracked and the mount area is now loose.
was thinking of using a small brass plate to cover the crack and strengthen it in that area or would that be over kill??
So does anybody have any idea's

Am I allowed more than one response????

I like the idea of the brass plate.

In fact if it were mine, and I was going to have to deal with it in a disassembly situation, I would probably do what Jon Grepstad did with this Crown. I've always like this, and keep this in my favorites.

ONE DAY?????

http://home.online.no/~gjon/crown99.htm

dave clayton
24-Dec-2013, 13:23
i may use the brass plate to cover up the damage and the glue marks. What i did in the end was place the tripod base into the thread, put a small spacer under the non damaged side and crank the plate down it pushed the damaged section into place nice and easy

gleaf
25-Dec-2013, 07:56
For the Gorilla Glue fans. Interesting bit on the glue. Moisture cure glue. It seeks moisture and will penetrate down the crack line following the moisture it can find to cure. Mid football game advertisments are useful occasionally.

EdSawyer
27-Dec-2013, 16:02
gorilla glue is messy and non-ideal for close fitting wooden parts. Aliphatic resin glues are better (stronger, less messy) unless you need to fill gaps or glue wood to something else (like concrete) - those are where GG comes in handy.

MrFujicaman
22-Jan-2014, 09:54
If you could get it in Oz, JB Weld makes a very strong epoxy made just for wood. Once it's dried, it can be sanded, filed, etc. and is stronger than the wood. Perhaps look on Ebay for some ?

jongrep
17-Oct-2015, 22:47
Am I allowed more than one response????

I like the idea of the brass plate.

In fact if it were mine, and I was going to have to deal with it in a disassembly situation, I would probably do what Jon Grepstad did with this Crown. I've always like this, and keep this in my favorites.

ONE DAY?????

http://home.online.no/~gjon/crown99.htm

New URL: http://jongrepstad.com/building-a-large-format-camera/refurbishing-a-crown-graphic-camera/

Jon Grepstad
jongrepstad.com