Kodak Aerial Duplicating Film #2430 - Processing?

[Ari]

I have found scant information online about this film.

One item I did find was to use it at 3 ISO and process it as I would Plus-X.

Extrapolating to my methods, that gives me:

HC-110 (dilution H)
5 minutes at 21˚C
Rotary tank (Jobo), constant agitation

Does that sound right? How does anyone else here expose and process this film?

Thank you in advance.

[Ari]

Anyone? I know there are a few people here who use this or similar films.

[jcoldslabs]

Ari,

I shoot Kodak Aerographic Duplicating Film (2421) quite often, but I have no idea if that emulsion and yours are similar. I rate mine at EI 6 and develop in HC-110 1:39 (68°F) for 7 1/2 minutes using a rotary drum for N development.

Jonathan

[Ari]

Thank you, Jonathan; I'll use your method as a starting point, though I suspect with dilution H, I may reach 9 minutes.
Cheers!

[jcoldslabs]

I've been getting great results with this film. I hope your 2430 film stock works as well for you.

As a point of reference, here is a test shot made with the 2421 film rated and processed as described above. I metered by placing the darker front porch shadows on Zone III.


http://www.kolstad.us/ebay/4x5-2421-EI6-2sec%20f32.jpg

Jonathan

[Ari]

Hey, thank you again, Jonathan; I hope my film looks as good as yours. I bought it for playing around with the 8x10.
Very nice control of highlights and decent shadow detail.

Zone...what? :)

[onnect17]

Ari, a couple of notes. You should include an extra stop while exposing because the film is only sensitive to the blue. It also allows development under a low red light and use pretty much any BW developer. I think Jim Galli suggested here in the forum to expose for 6 seconds at f16. You could take 2 shots, one at 4 secs and the other at 8 secs and check the results.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Where do you guys find this film? Thank you.

[jcoldslabs]

You should include an extra stop while exposing because the film is only sensitive to the blue.

I mean this with respect, but "include an extra stop" compared to what? If you determine an effective exposure index for a given film through testing then you should be set. (I did not add a stop to my photo above, for example. I metered the shadows and went with that.) If you mean you should open up a stop versus what your meter is telling you because the film is more sensitive to blue than the meter is, as long as you use the same meter for testing as you do for regular exposures no adjustment should be necessary. I suppose if your subject were predominantly red or yellow then yes, opening up might be warranted because those colors will be rendered much darker than with panchromatic film.



Where do you guys find this film? Thank you.

I have been lucky enough to find it on Eb@y from time to time, although I bought a large roll of it from Jim Galli last year. Best purchase I ever made in terms of film quality, volume and price. I wouldn't say I'm set for life, but the 700 foot roll I bought from Jim will yield 2,100 4x5 sheets!

Jonathan

[Ari]

Where do you guys find this film? Thank you.

I found it here; it was in the FS section for a week or so.

Thanks, Jonathan and Armando.

[onnect17]

I mean this with respect, but "include an extra stop" compared to what? If you determine an effective exposure index for a given film through testing then you should be set. (I did not add a stop to my photo above, for example. I metered the shadows and went with that.) If you mean you should open up a stop versus what your meter is telling you because the film is more sensitive to blue than the meter is, as long as you use the same meter for testing as you do for regular exposures no adjustment should be necessary. I suppose if your subject were predominantly red or yellow then yes, opening up might be warranted because those colors will be rendered much darker than with panchromatic film.


Compared to your exposure estimate, if you use a light meter. Light temperature in the shades is mostly on the blue side so the correction is applied indirectly. I prefer not to attach exposure to the spectral response of any light meter in particular or use the zone system. The rule f16 works quite well for me in a sunny day.

[jcoldslabs]

Compared to your exposure estimate, if you use a light meter. Light temperature in the shades is mostly on the blue side so the correction is applied indirectly. I prefer not to attach exposure to the spectral response of any light meter in particular or use the zone system. The rule f16 works quite well for me in a sunny day.

That clarifies things. I have found that blue sensitive films are great for use on sunny days because they are less sensitive to yellowish sunlight and more sensitive to bluish shadows which helps keep the overall contrast in check without the need for N minus development.

Jonathan