NuArc 26-1ks question

[Jim collum]

When you first start the exposure, there's a loud 'clunk' (relay? ballast?) that's followed immediately by the lamp turning on.

Sometimes it 'clunks' and nothing.. and then takes a number of attempts at starting the exposure before the clunk is followed by the lamp .


(I'm sure i'm missing a technical term in here somewhere :) )

Lamp's brand new.. where should i be looking?

jim

[Erik Larsen]

My unit needs to cool for a minute or so until it can be re lit after an exposure. I also had a bulb from cap rock that would be difficult to light and would sometimes refuse to come on. The clunk and initial hum are normal as far as I know? A new bulb from nuarc and all seems normal except it still won't light immediately after an exposure, it still has to cool for a short time. I blame the off brand bulb, but it could be a coincidence? Are you letting the unit cool before relighting? If it still doesn't light after cooling and a fresh bulb doesn't work then sorry but it's beyond my knowledge.
Erik

[Jim collum]

most often happens when it hasn't been running lately

[Erik Larsen]

Well then, I'm of no help in that case

[Jan Pedersen]

Mine behaves like Erik's, need to cool down before it will light up again. Mine also have a bit of a hum when it does relight.

[sanking]

Did you have this problem with the old lamp? If not, the lamp itself might be the problem.

One potential problem, other than the lamp and ballast, is the actual voltage on the line. It should be 120 v, plus or minus 3 volts. If you are outside this range this might cause the lamp to not strike.

I have a small voltmeter that plugs directly into the line that I use to test voltage for my platemaker. It shows AC volts from 100 - 130 volts, with the acceptable 117-123 range in green.

Sandy

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I find that if I hold the switch in just a bit longer until it fires I have no problem with my 26 1ks.

[Jim collum]

after an email exchange w M&R (NuArc), I may have a faulty Starter board... some more testing to make sure.. then to find out the price of one....

oh well....

[Brian Bullen]

Jim C, I have the same issue as you so I'd be interested in hearing the outcome. Mine usually starts up but occasionally takes a few tries to fire. One day it worked fine, then would not come back on for the rest of the day. Next morning it worked perfectly. I thought the bulb was the issue but the nu-arc bulb has given the same results.

[Jim collum]

Just an update on the issue. Replacing the Starter board LC13 ($85) fixed the problem.. all is working as new. Replacing the part was as easy as could be

Thanks M&R!!

jim

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Israel at M&R is the best. Glad to know how you fixed it. I'll put this in the memory banks for later.

[Amedeus]

I'm a bit late in this thread and I'm glad the problem is solved.

There were a couple of comments though that I would like to expand on.

The arc lamps used in these units do strike easier cold than warm/hot. This is perfectly normal and is typical for most arc lamps. I noticed quite a few respondents have this observation.

When arc lamps age, they may require multiple strikes to light. This is also normal behavior for arc lamps. One and other is of course dependent on the electronics driving it but in general, not a cause for concern. Same observation when a unit was not used for a very long time. The lamp may need multiple ignitions to strike and sustain plasma.

Off brand bulbs are not always built to the same specifications and ignition voltage may be one of them. One and other depends on the reserve put in the ignition circuit.

When igniter boards fail, then you replace them.

YMMV,