Durst Laborator L138 S

[sun of sand]

Off Buffalo Craigslist I recently purchased one of these along with an Arkay Dual-Dri 150 drum dryer for $200. Came from Dresser-Rand in Olean NY. SAVED from the dump or scrap by a sharp-eyed gentleman employed there some years back and just recently semi-retired. Got the enlarger home and set up easily enough. It came with 2 240's, turreted 180mm Componon, B&L 88mm WA in Supermatic 1, 12.5 CP Berlin Dagor, Nega non-138 carrier, working bulb, extra Atlas 500wt Durst bulb, baseboard with target in center, 1000 8.5x11 sheets sealed Kodabromide F2S still good, other paper unsealed, 3 11x14 stainless steel Columbian trays, old graphic arts film, 12 gallons Dektol unknown quality 10+ hardening fixer still good etc

great deal, right? Seems I was the only one in the area interested. Rochester, NY? Nobody?


It's great. Better than my Omega D5

But quite a few questions

I have wood floors in an old victorian home. Shaky. I've braced the flooring best as possible.
Take off the track wheels for more floor contact? Grind down the "feet" so the base is level? Add 4 levelers instead? Less floor contact, though

alignment? The baseboard isn't aligned with the head. Using the two uprights to brace the baseboard how does one align it? Better to just align the easel instead? That seems to work but rather have it completely aligned

Nega carrier. Where does this put the enlargers age? What's with the "focus negative" patch it comes with? Front adjustment knob to raise the carrier? Is this like front/back negative alignment?
The baseboard target? How does this come into play?


Why would anyone enlarge with a B&L 88mm WA double-gauss lens? An OLD dagor? Dagor is acceptable probably but surely not the best. I don't have the condensers for those focal lengths, anyway.
Where do you get the conical lens "boards" to fit the turret? How do you measure them for other lenses?

how to focus a large enlargement? Lot of hit and miss knob inching.


Anything you can think of would help, too.
I've combed the internet. Youtube has nothing.



The drum dryer works. The drum is perfect itself. Even came with the frees-it polish. Too much wattage for my darkroom, though. Heat that sucker up for a couple prints? Apron needs to be cleaned.
Who wants to buy it? lol
My first ferrotyped print stuck. Need to break out the polish though I had cleaned it very well prior.
Also have some Pakosol from a previous purchase but ..
seriously, who wants it?


I'm sure the enlarger was much used as it has some minimal scrapes on negative stage and such but overall it appears quite good. Condensers and mirror/glasses etc all fine.
After a clean and regrease the thing moves with the slightest touch. It's a very well built machine.

No fan for these big bulbs. OK to just use an external fan to blow on the bulb housing to cool it or completely wasted effort?


well

[Drew Wiley]

You definitely want to get a fan with external exhaust hose hooked up. A basic squirrel-cage fan can readily be obtained from some place like Grainger, but will be a bit noisy if you're on the cheap. You'll want a solid wall brace - easy to make or you can buy it from Jensen Optical (Durst Pro). Everything can be fine-tuned with
a bit of patience. The stainless trays alone are worth what you paid, so spending a little more time and money replacing worn parts is warranted. Replacement neg
carriers are all over the map in price. You just need to get lucky. Your old one might need some new light gasket material, or new glass (Focal Point has the glass).
Play in the fine focus will have a friction adjustment screw hidden behind the gear device. Same for all the leveling etc, unless the baseboard is warped, in which
case you'll either need to make a new one or find a replacement. These turn up from time to time. Also looks like you'll need a new lens. The condenser system can
easily be diffused if desired. You need to get ahold of a setup manual. Durst Pro might still have these online for download. Otherwise, it would take some time to
explain every detail. These machines were built to last forever, so you landed a nice fish.

[ic-racer]

Off Buffalo Craigslist I recently purchased one of these along with an Arkay Dual-Dri 150 drum dryer for $200.




I have wood floors in an old victorian home. Shaky. I've braced the flooring best as possible.
Take off the track wheels for more floor contact? Grind down the "feet" so the base is level? Add 4 levelers instead? Less floor contact, though

I'd not grind anything on that enlarger. Can you post a picture of the base and feet in question.



alignment? The baseboard isn't aligned with the head.

There are a number of 138 users on this forum. I don't own that model but the larger Durst has 4 concentric locking screws to align the baseboard. Again, a picture of the baseboard attachment would be helpful.





Nega carrier. Where does this put the enlargers age? What's with the "focus negative" patch it comes with? Front adjustment knob to raise the carrier? Is this like front/back negative alignment?


The focus negative on the "NEGA" carrier sets the lower glass so all you negatives (that obviously are lying flat against the glass) will be in focus until you change magnification. You may or may not want to use that feature. Probably you will just focus each negative individually. If you have not enlarged big negatives you may find the grain sometimes impossible to see with the usual grain focusers, thus the benefit of the focus negative. For example 8x10; when I enlarge to 11x14. No grain visible with my Peak 1, so I need to find a tee branch or something in the image on which to focus etc., so the focus negative may be an advantage in situations like that.

I believe the baseboard target is used when using the enlarger as a copy camera.





Where do you get the conical lens "boards" to fit the turret? How do you measure them for other lenses?

The DURST COMPONON (Not COMPONON-S) chrome lenses came in the appropriate cone to fit your turret. I collected a number of these from e-bay, though the glass surfaces on some of mine are less then stellar. Some black COMPONON-S lenses came in the appropriate mount but these are harder to find.

For example, you can see in picture #2 below where I took the lens mount off a scratched 240mm Componon-S and put it on a non-scratched lens that did not come with a Durst lensmount. The 'donor' lens was then sold on ebay to a non-Durst user. Other lenses may fit on a flat LAPLA but you may not be able to swing the turret without removing the lens (which is an easy process, just undo the lockscrew) For example my 80mm is mounted it won't allow the turret to spin.

Again, pictures of what you have will be helpful. (I know your turret probably does not come off like mine)

98535
98536


how to focus a large enlargement?

John P in our local group winds a cord around the knob of his 138 to accomplish this with success. They also made the FOMOT focus motor, but unless your enlarger came with this, finding this motor in working condition will be like seeking the Holy Grail :)

[ic-racer]

If you are enlarging 5x7, as Drew pointed out, you may want to get a nice 210mm. Here is a Rodenstock 210 in with a Durst mount on ebay, price is pretty high, though:
98542http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rodenstock-Rodagon-1-5-6-210-Enlarging-Macro-Lens-Germany-/160989789119?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257bbd3bbf

Here is a Componon mounted the wrong way in the Durst mount for $45. If the glass is good, you should be able to flip the mount around pretty easily. If the glass is bad it is probably worth it just to get the mount.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schneider-Kreuznach-Componon-210mm-f-5-6-enlarger-lens-/321108467541?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac38e5f55
98541

[quine]

I also have a Victorian home with unlevel floors, so to fix the wobbliness, I bolted the enlarger to the wall. You can use the holes in the legs for bolts once you take off the wheels. The top of the column has threaded holes for this purpose. I found the brackets at a home improvement store.

I used wooden blocks to shim the feet to make it level -- no need for grinding.

AFAIK, the uprights under the baseboard are used to "record" the position of the baseboard once you get it parallel to the negative carrier (they're adjustable). To align the baseboard in the first place, you just need to unlock the swivel joint and release the uprights -- the table will tilt on two axes. You shouldn't need the uprights to support the table if the lock is working properly.

Lens boards show up on the evil auction site from time to time. LAPLA 39 is the most common and useful. BTW, there is a manual on Jensen's web site that tells you which lens boards go with which lenses.

I use a Microsight grain focuser with good results on large enlargements.

You can use the standard PH211/PH212/PH213 bulbs for 4x5 and smaller negatives with no ill effects that I can observe (but somewhat higher contrast). You just need to be careful about bulb placement. I suspect that 5x7 would also work, but I don't have a 5x7 lens to confirm with. These bulbs don't heat up as much as the 500W Thorn/Atlas bulbs. I think you will want a fan for anything >= 300W.

Cheers,

-andrew
98564985659856698567

[sun of sand]

It came with the manual but it's written in some old english. I guess it is European. I believe mine is like most some early mid-vintage model.
I shimmed the base legs with cast iron weight plates. I figured that putting the wheels into the center hole of 25 lb plates would spread the load out well. THen stuffed the plates underneath the base wherever I could
I crossbraced the joists then 5/8 plywood and 36" 1/4 steel under the ends held up by floor jacks. It's much sturdier than before but I don't trust it not to jostle when making dodge burn gestures.
My base as all have have those lips where the tracks are like in the above pictures. Grind those off and the entire base sits on ground. drastic

The bracing to the wall looks good. No idea what those holes were for. wall mounting.

Adjustable baseboard uprights. Right. there is a nut there. what an idiot. I'll try that. "done at factory" made me think something else was wrong elsewhere


My Nega has one 1" area where the light gasket has worn through to the braided material. I guess it's just some plastic/varnish over it
I don't see any leaks or anything but then compared to the omegas head

I'll sell my 180 at some point and get a 210mm. Is it possible to use process lenses or only Rodagon/Componons
I mean...these Laplas






THanks for the help and ideas

Anybody Ground their enlarger? Mine is situated right near a radiators water pipe
I'm no electrician. Wrap a wire from enlarger around that pipe? Does that do anything?

[Drew Wiley]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Lens mounting rings for these are fairly common, but it helps to know the old product codes for them. Otherwise a machine
shop can make you one if necessary. It will accept almost any enlarging lens unless it's uncommonly huge. Very short focal length lenses (like for 35mm work) will require a recessed board. Process lenses are slower (smaller f-stop) than enlarging lenses but can do an excellent job in certain cases. I like Apo-Nikkors for enlarging. A 240 Apo Nikkor would make a wonderful lens for 5x7, and is more common than the 210.

[dsphotog]

Great buy!!!
I have heard of grounding enlargers, to help prevent static electric dust attraction, Dust hasn't been a problem, so I personally haven't tried it.

[Larry Gebhardt]

Sounds like you got a good deal, even if things need some work. I posted a copy of the manual and service manual on my site, http://www.trippingthroughthedark.com/durst-laborator-138s-manuals/.

You will need a blower to cool the bulb. I bought a new one from grainger and used a shop vac hose and a few plumbing parts to hook it up. Works well for about $100 in new parts. Before I built that I was using a small shop vac with the hose hooked to the output port on the vac. it was very loud and unpleasant, but it worked. The blower from grainger moves a lot of air and is pretty quiet (and not harsh).

The second L138 I bought came with a vacuum instead of a blower. I assume it works, but I haven't tried printing with it. With the cost of the bulbs it's best not to mess around with inadequate cooling. So, no, an external fan aimed at the housing will not be enough.

There are also other options for the light source that don't need cooling.

The simplest option is to get a 200watt Opal bulb. These don't need the blower, but I would still use it given the cost of the bulb.

Another simple option is to use a 150watt spotlight bulb (with reflector). Scrape off the writing and aim it at a piece of white plexiglass or opal glass in the heat absorbing glass track or in the filter drawer. With the 150watt bulb you don't need to cool them. This works ok and is almost as even as the original bulb. If you want to use plexiglass I would use the original heat absorbing glass too, otherwise it's probably a fire hazard.

I have also built a variable contrast LED diffusion head for the L138 and it works well. Just last weekend I built a VC light source to use the condensers along with the same controller. It's about a stop slower than the 500W bulb, but uses only about 3 watts of power, so also no need to cool it.

Another option is a single white LED used as a point light source. A 3watt LED used this way produces a brighter image than the 500watt bulb. Again no need to cool it. But it does show every flaw in the negative and on the condensers.

Remove the wheels, or install a level track. You can use the holes for a set of leveling feet. I haven't made mine yet, but a few pieces of angle iron and some feet on bolts from the hardware store should work nicely.

[dsphotog]

Wow, Larry!
Nice!!!

[Larry Gebhardt]

Here are a few pictures of my cobbled together blower solution. Nothing fancy, and I'm ashamed of how cruddy the woodwork is on this (my shop was unusable when I built this, so I just used some scrap plywood I had laying around). I turn it on and off with a foot switch power switch from Harbor Freight. I think about $100 to $120 in parts.

986929869198690

Also, I just wrote up something about the variable contrast light source and the point light source I build so I could use the condensers for the Durst 138S. http://www.trippingthroughthedark.com/variable-contrast-led-head-for-durst-138s-condensers/

[Allen in Montreal]

9869898699

They are great enlargers. You will come to love it.

Is your rig setup as a single turret that is not removeable or can you take the turret out and put in a single plate to use a unipla?
If you want to run a 210mm in the unit with a fixed turret, you need to start looking for a 72mm unipla. They are not that common and be expensive, if you take your rime, you can find a deal on one.

You may want to start collecting filter drawers when you can too, and set filters in so you don't have to go with below the lens filters.

The original bulbs can be pricey, but there are some good alternatives.
In Mogel thread, 300 watt lamps for 10 dollars a pop. Some G40 bulbs at 200 watts are good too if you can print with a 200 watt bulb (I use a 200 watt bulb most often, I keep a 300 and 500 at hand in case, but almost always use the 200).

People ask insane prices for some of the condensers on the Evil, but they are a dime a dozen and if you take your time, you will collect all the sizes you need.
The Nega138 is a really nice negative carrier. Focal Point still makes glass for it if you need new glass.

[Larry Gebhardt]

If you want to run a 210mm in the unit with a fixed turret, you need to start looking for a 72mm unipla. They are not that common and be expensive, if you take your rime, you can find a deal on one.

I use a 210mm EL Nikkor on mine. I had SK Grimes make lens plate that's cut to screw into the 67mm filter threads on this lens. Cost was $90. I also have a 180mm componon s that came with a custom plate. The 210mm is more even with the condensers, but needs much more extension for the same size print.

[sun of sand]

so 500 wt needs a fan and maybe 300
Not sure what the bulb is in the enlarger but since the extra is 500 I can only assume
Is there a way to tell the wattage by size or something? marked on the base or something? doubt its on the top of bulb

The housing gets pretty damn hot after a 1:30 of focusing


what are the detriments of going fanless

negative warpage even under the glass after taking the neg back out for storage?
bulb life expectancy decreases
heat absorbing glass cant handle it

what exactly

I'll cludge something or keep on eye on ebay but it's not on the front burner

[sun of sand]

no idea about the turret
it's a 3 lens turret
removable? no idea. i'm thinking not

[Allen in Montreal]

no idea about the turret
it's a 3 lens turret
removable? no idea. i'm thinking not

Some models have a turret that can be removed by releasing a screw that is right front and center, and the entire unit comes out and a single lens can be used rather than the turret. Others have a 3 lens turret that is mounted permanently (without modifications). Mine is one of these types, I am fine with the turret.

Larry mentioned a 210mm El Nikkor with a 67mm thread, that would a really good find, 67mm lens boards are very common.
My El is a 72mm and the Lapla 72mm are not so common.
Scour ebay.de for parts.

I am currently using the 200 watt bulb on the left in this picture, the Atlas standard bulb is on the right.

[Larry Gebhardt]

so 500 wt needs a fan and maybe 300
Not sure what the bulb is in the enlarger but since the extra is 500 I can only assume
Is there a way to tell the wattage by size or something? marked on the base or something? doubt its on the top of bulb

The housing gets pretty damn hot after a 1:30 of focusing


what are the detriments of going fanless

negative warpage even under the glass after taking the neg back out for storage?
bulb life expectancy decreases
heat absorbing glass cant handle it

what exactly

I'll cludge something or keep on eye on ebay but it's not on the front burner

I don't know what will happen if you don't ventilate the 500watt bulb. Something will overheat, but I doubt it will be the negative if you use the heat absorbing glass. It's also possibly a fire hazard. Given a new original bulb will generally sell for $100 it's probably a good idea to not overheat them. I also run my bulbs with a variac set between 80 and 100volts. I found each 10V drop cuts the light by half a stop. Based on some other info I found even a few volts lower than 115 will make the bulb last much longer (and run a bit cooler).

[Tin Can]

Get a watt meter, I use this one on everything new that uses wall power, I like this one since it is remote reading, but there are cheaper ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F7C005-Conserve-Insight-Monitor/dp/B003WV5DBU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1373866431&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=belkin+watt+meter



I don't know what will happen if you don't ventilate the 500watt bulb. Something will overheat, but I doubt it will be the negative if you use the heat absorbing glass. It's also possibly a fire hazard. Given a new original bulb will generally sell for $100 it's probably a good idea to not overheat them. I also run my bulbs with a variac set between 80 and 100volts. I found each 10V drop cuts the light by half a stop. Based on some other info I found even a few volts lower than 115 will make the bulb last much longer (and run a bit cooler).