Looking to build a field camera

[DKirk]

Hi, I'm looking for a little advice and guidance here. I'm looking to build a 8x10 field type camera (or if some one can provide diagrams, a clone of a 2D or other camera of that style). Apart from Jon Grepstads' site, are there any other resources online - e.g places for the machined parts such as focus racks, leaf springs etc. Not very trusting of MDF so I'd rather not go down the bulldog camera route. What kind of wood is suitable? I'll have a good bit of American White Oak and possibly some Maple left over from a renovation project - are these good for constructing the camera or are there better woods to use?

I plan on using part of a Toyo 45G front standard, possibly building in a shutter (depending on how much rescuing it needs, but looking at the ebay pics the shutter cloth is likely shot).

[klw]

This link to a quite detailed plan of an 8x10 field camera was posted here a while ago. This is not a tailboard design (like the Kodak 2d), so I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for.

http://web.archive.org/web/20040914084523/www.srv.net/~vail/camera.htm

--Matthias

[vinny]

There are other threads on the subject of suitable woods. Look at the wood used for other cameras out there. Maple is one. Oak isn't.
I'm about 2/3 into builing an 8x10 based on the Phillips Compact. I'm using baltic birch plywood and aluminum. I'll post some pics when it's complete. Simple design really.

[DKirk]

Any reason against Oak? They'll be some pitch pine boards left too, but it's a little too soft (though finishes up beautifully with a few coats of tonkinois varnish).

Thanks Matthias, a useful page there. Would prefer the look of tailboard, with extension rails (interested in some photomicrography shots on sheet film, but for ease think that'll be merely 5x4, but I'd like the option to do it on 8x10).

For what I want, please correct me if I'm way out of line, i feel a wooden 8x10 monorail would be too flimsy - I'm improving my wood butchery skills, but they're not that improved. . .

[Leszek Vogt]

Oak is rather heavy and not as easy to work with. I've had issues with tearouts....it could have been my inexperience. Cherry and mahogany are fairly dense and easier to work with. They are, if properly seasoned (8.5% moisture), not as prone to movements (like cupping or twisting)...though, that goes for most woods. Proper finish should be applied to both sides to keep it that way. Dense and exotic woods may be spectacular, but it makes the camera 2-3X heavier. I have some gorgeous rosewood (maroon in color w/white streaks), but this small piece weights as several bricks. But, if I was building one, I'd likely go with koa wood from Hawaii (v. little imported = expensive), mostly since I already have the wood - v. similar properties to cherry and mahogany.

You can add some contrast (if you wish) and use figured "curly" maple for the lens board/s. You can also go the opposite way and get darker woods for lens boards. Honing your wood skills really helps, but having sharp tools is essential in this endeavor. You can make the camera v. stout even with box dovetails....and especially with conventional dovetails. You could have it both ways, as an object of beauty and as an actual working model, that's a pleasure to shoot with.

Les

[Steve Smith]

Have a good look through this site. It's 5x4 but you could easily scale it up.

http://www.raymentkirbycameras.co.uk/

I have some plans in CAD form too if they're of any use.


Steve.

[Steven Tribe]

Oak is dreadful wood for fine work.
OK for boat-building, timber framed buildings, flooring and peasant furniture.

Any fruit wood, European or tropical, with a straight grain and over 7 years natural seasoning.
Best source is recycled furniture and fittings.

[Carl J]

Vinny, sounds fascinating. Any chance of photos of the work in progress?


There are other threads on the subject of suitable woods. Look at the wood used for other cameras out there. Maple is one. Oak isn't.
I'm about 2/3 into builing an 8x10 based on the Phillips Compact. I'm using baltic birch plywood and aluminum. I'll post some pics when it's complete. Simple design really.

[Tim Meisburger]

Steven, I normally agree with you, but here I have to disagree. Quarter-sawn white oak is one of the loveliest woods in the world, and if its riven instead of sawn it is very easy to work. Its also very stable. Some early cameras in the US were made from oak, but at that time mahogany was readily available and easier to work and finish. Oak would not be as suitable for a relatively small camera as a fruitwood because it splits easily, and a hard knock on a small piece could easily detach a long splinter.

[Steven Tribe]

Oak was used as a standard on the very large Process Cameras along with iron fitments. The small production 1840 - 1860 cameras are often oak - but the joinery here was, at most, dovetailing the boxes.
I enclose a photo of a lens board for a tailboard camera I have just fixed up (separated and reglued) this morning. This is mahogany and the "splicing filet"(?) is just 1mm. Not possible with oak, I think!

[Steve Smith]

Quarter-sawn white oak is one of the loveliest woods in the world, and if its riven instead of sawn it is very easy to work. Its also very stable. Some early cameras in the US were made from oak.

As are some current cameras - such as my 6x12 wide angle panoramic.


Steve.

[klw]

Thanks Matthias, a useful page there. Would prefer the look of tailboard, with extension rails (interested in some photomicrography shots on sheet film, but for ease think that'll be merely 5x4, but I'd like the option to do it on 8x10).

I'm currently working on a Kodak 2D. Since it is completly dismanteled this would be a good oportunity to make pictures and take measurements from the parts. I think the wooden parts are not too difficult to make. The main problem in building one from scratch will be the hardware (IMHO)

--Matthias

[DKirk]

Have a good look through this site. It's 5x4 but you could easily scale it up.

http://www.raymentkirbycameras.co.uk/

I have some plans in CAD form too if they're of any use.


Steve.
That would be useful, and Matthias that would be great. Hardware will be the interesting parts to source as you say, though worst case I can probably get by with using mecano, or as a stop gap there's some sheet steel I use for making lensboards.

looking at what's avaliable the maple flooring once planed to get rid of the ridges on the bottom will be 15-17mm thick by 57mm wide and with the lengths I'll have as much as 3000mm long. There's a nicer selection of sizes in Oak though, but it's all up in the rafters of the garage, about £850 worth 8 years ago bought for £150 2 weeks ago :)

[klw]

That would be useful, and Matthias that would be great. Hardware will be the interesting parts to source as you say, though worst case I can probably get by with using mecano, or as a stop gap there's some sheet steel I use for making lensboards.

Most of the hardware is brass (much easier to work with than steel). Screws and gears are not difficult to get (you won't need exact the same Kodak used – those are allmost impossible to find, since you have to find original, old parts then...)

You have to be able to cut, drill, machine and bend brass to make the "custom" parts (The whole design heavily depends on them).

97330


looking at what's avaliable the maple flooring once planed to get rid of the ridges on the bottom will be 15-17mm thick by 57mm wide and with the lengths I'll have as much as 3000mm long. There's a nicer selection of sizes in Oak though, but it's all up in the rafters of the garage, about £850 worth 8 years ago bought for £150 2 weeks ago :)

The thickest wooden parts (on the rails) are 31,75mm x 31,75mm...


--Matthias

[DKirk]

Think I'll be able to fabricate something, though not adverse to customising some parts and adapting some cabinet fixings, hinges and other odds and sods, the main worry is getting the register and alignment of the back spot on.

[DKirk]

Slowly progressing.
Decided to settle on using part of the front standard of a Toyo G (mainly as I have a spare that one of the locks doesn't. . . and I use a Toyo 45G ).

Any suggestions for places to but knobs, gears, cogs and something to make the back springs? (preferably UK or Europe based, don't want to get stung by the VAT man).

Awaiting a licence code for TurboCAD to do some of the design work (as an aside will be using this program for future work, and I'm not fishing for a code either, it's a business expense) so I'll eventually get round to posting the design up here for criticism/suggestions/other folk who fancy a wee project.