Linhof "Rust" - a.ka.corrosion -any hints?

[Ian Gordon Bilson]

Searched first,here. and elsewhere too.
Pitting and spots on my venerable Series 3 Technika,but my newly acquired Super Rollex 6x7 RFB has it bad.
Thinking a mild,mechanical buffing,and then ?
Paste wax,as an oxygen barrier?
"Museum Wax" -I have that too. Not needing a suggestion for making it "pristine",all this stuff is designed for use rather than ornament,but would rather not have powdery residue flaking off and ending on my film either.
All suggestions welcome.

[sun of sand]

if it's designed for use and not to be pristine why consult the LFF camera conservators?
just do it

aluminum?
brush some naval jelly/alum jelly/phosphoric acid or other on it and wah off
wet sand it
dremel polish it

[Steven Tribe]

Normas get aluminium pitting/loose corrosion too. Just cosmetic, though.

[coisasdavida]

When I first got my III it was really bad. In order to use the camera I bought some clear spray paint and sprayed all over the outside and some parts I would handle much. This way I avoided the bad smell of aluminum oxide on my hands and cuts I could get from those sharp chrome edges.

After I saw what a local guy did to a friend's Tech IV, I took my camera to him. I also bought some new leather that he installed for me. I did a blog post about this, the camera was ready one week ago! http://refotografia.wordpress.com/ in portuguese.

As far as I know he simply got most of the oxide and chrome away, mechanically. He rechromed some steel parts that could be separated from the camera. Repainted colored spots on the camera (red, green, black) and so on.

Just avoid any chemicals to get the stuff out. Most of them will eat thru duraluminum.

[sun of sand]

nothing eats through aluminum
at least not in a way that will make the camera inoperable
you can dip the part in strong lye for hours and be fine

i dip thinner gauge bicycle components in lye to remove paint and anodization
then sand them down to get new contours or just to sand out scratches whether deep or not
then wet sand to shine
buff to chrome-like in appearance

stuff is fine
and safe
people drill holes in aluminum bike parts to such extreme you'd think them unsafe to sit on let alone ride in competitions
google "drillium"

unless you're building airplanes
do whatever you wish to do on aluminum

[coisasdavida]

Sorry, I meant the chemicals to remove the chrome.

[Jac@stafford.net]

nothing eats through aluminum
at least not in a way that will make the camera inoperable
you can dip the part in strong lye for hours and be fine

You are getting away with that probably because you are working with an aluminum alloy. In our cameras, most aluminum is an alloy.

Sodium hydroxide is highly reactive with aluminum. It will dissolve it and during the process intense heat is generated.

[SergeiR]

nothing eats through aluminum
at least not in a way that will make the camera inoperable

Actually a lot of stuff does, according to your regular chemistry classes in school.
Including plain water (once protective oxide layer is damaged).

[sun of sand]

and the chance Ian here is going to use something that will eat through his cameras aluminum when he's already gun shy about using anything but ..wax?
he's scared of buffing



Ian
do whatever you want. You won't hurt the thing, only make it look better.
I'd recommend sanding. polish it up it won't oxidize for a long time

[Bill_1856]

Try "Brasso."

[Ian Gordon Bilson]

Thanks folks - you have given me a few options to consider ..And buffing is one of them.
I'll report back.

[AtlantaTerry]

Mercury will eat through aluminum.

[Ian Gordon Bilson]

Well,I just used a rotary wire brush,and then waxed the result. That should hold it for a few years. As I said,this one is a user, not a museum display.
One thing I like - Linhof give you a film gate 56.5 x 72mm, which is more "real estate" than the measly 56 x 66.5 of my Mamiya RB 67 rfb's.