Material for darkslides

[Tristan Joyce]

I need to make a number of darkslides for standard 4x5 holders - ie, just the slides, not the holders themselves. What material would be recommended? I´d prefer wood, as it would be easier to work than plastic.

[N Dhananjay]

The slides need to be very thin - so I do not think wood is an appropriate material. If you do not like plastics, you could use metal. I have some metal slides and they are very tough - something I have come to appreciate since the plastic ones cracked during the baggae handling when travelling by air.
Cheers, DJ

[Tristan Joyce]

Thanks, DJ. For normal use, I agree that metal would be a good choice.

However, the idea is to cut patterns in a series of slides, and to make a sequence of exposures from different viewpoints, using a different slide (& pattern) for each exposure, onto one sheet of film. (Obviously there would also be a normal slide, to protect the film pre and post insertion into the camera). Cycling through the slides through a sequence of exposures would expose different areas of the film each time, but the cumulative effect would be for the entire film to be exposed.

To do this, I think that wood would be easier to work than metal, particularly if some parts of the pattern are quite delicate. So I´m wondering if some thin, light wood, such as balsa, would be suitable, or whether a different material would be more suitable?

[Jim C.]

Look into garolite sheets at McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com).

[Richard Wasserman]

I haven't measured it thickness, but I think Formica (or another brand) might work. It is thin, rigid, and not works much like wood. It would need to be tested however to make sure it is opaque. It should be easy to get scraps from anyone who makes kitchen counter.

[domaz]

I made a darkslide for a Graflex 120 back by using aluminum about the same thickness as the darkslide material. A quick sanding and spray painting with matte black spray paint leaves a workable paint job. Aluminum is not easy to work with though, if you don't have good metal cutting tools.

[RawheaD]

I made a darkslide for a Graflex 120 back by using aluminum about the same thickness as the darkslide material. A quick sanding and spray painting with matte black spray paint leaves a workable paint job. Aluminum is not easy to work with though, if you don't have good metal cutting tools.

Why spray paint it? The whole idea behind darkslides is that the film side is completely shielded from light when the slide is in place, and that BOTH sides of the slide are completely shielded from light when the slide is being pulled out or pushed in. Therefore, something like "light reflection" should have no impact on the performance. Indeed, many dark slides, including those used with Hasselblad cameras, are their original shiny stainless steel selves.

[Vaughn]

But if used as the OP wished to use it, it will be important to have a flat black darkslide. Light will be bouncing around in the holder. I use a modified darkslide to get two 4x0 images on a single 8x10 sheet. I use the metal slides as they hold up better as they are not as prone to damage when not in a holder. I also use a sharpie to blacken the cut edges to reduce reflections.

I have also used the darkslides as lens shades during exposures -- black in that case is also nice.

I just do not see where wood darkslides would be at all practical. Just too thin and prone to damage...possible warping, too. The normal non-metal darkslides are too fragile when out of the holder as it is.

Some folks who have cut holes in darkslides have reported damage to the felt in the holder's light trap -- not a problem with the simple "L" shaped modification.

Vaughn

[petetsai]

What about 8x10 darkslide material? You could make 2 or 3 from one damaged 8x10 slide, of which I have many.

[Nathan Potter]

For what the OP wants it would seem that black opaque cardboard would work well for a limited number of pulls. An Exacto knife could be used to easily cut the frame openings as described. Spray the finished cardboard with Krylon to reduce the cardboard lint. Black side facing the lens to reduced internal flare (my experience).

I've used empty photo paper envelopes for similar purposes (doing multiple step tablet exposures on 4X5 film).

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Vaughn]

Or use masks within the camera (such as the Deardorff splitters), and not modify the darkslides at all.

[Erik Larsen]

If all you are doing is making patterns for use while the film holder is inserted in the camera the material doesn't have to be much more than say the card board that is packed with sheet film. Paint it black and it should be good enough to shield the film while it is in the camera during a typical exposure but I would make sure to use a proper dark slide before removing it from the camera. It would be easy to cut as well. Cheap enough to try:)
Regards
Erik

Edit - I see I don't type fast enough as my idea has been mentioned

[Ron Stowell]

Black Styrene available from hobby shops and on e-bay about ·040 thick has worked well for me.

[Daniel Stone]

I'd use metal, or garolite sheet of appropriate thickness.

A good metal/plastics shop should be able to help you out with fabricating some if you don't have the tools/capability to do such.

Take an 8x10 slide as a reference, and a drawing with dimensions for cut-outs or dimensions needed

-Dan

[Tristan Joyce]

Great input - thanks! I´m going to give this a go with cardboard first - I hadn´t thought of that - to see if I get the effect I´m looking for. If it works well, then I may try some more robust material.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Tristan, be careful, depending on the shape of your pattern the darkslide can trap & tear the light trap material and ruin the holder, been there done that.

[Tristan Joyce]

Thanks Paul. Good advice again.

[imagedowser]

If you use cardboard or other easily bent (weak) material, be sure to wax the edges that slide in the holder.... Butchers or "carpenters wax" works well. Wax helps on any slide/holder interface. Be sure to buff it when dry...